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No spark after known good cps


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Hello, I'm looking for help / advice for my cps issue. I finally got my truck to turn over for the first time and I was getting a no spark condition and after doing some research I landed on cruiser54's tip #7. I tested the original cps in the truck and got .32 v of AC, so according to that tip my cps was probably bad. I went to Napa and got another and drilled it out to help get a stronger signal and now I'm reading only .26 v of AC. So my question is, did I just get a bad cps or could something else be at play here? If I have to get another one where would be the best place to go or should I give Napa another shot?

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Goodish news! I went and got another cps from Napa and after installing it I have .57 v AC. I unfortunately still have no spark. I have no power going to the distributor or coil. What could that be?

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  • Tctv3 changed the title to No spark after known good cps

I believe they are. The truck will turn over but it just Is getting no power to the ignition coil or the distributor. I'm not sure where I can test if the ecu is getting power because that's my next concern. 

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The CPS will tell the ECU to light off the coil and spark. That being said that doesnt mean that you couldnt have a blown fusible link or bad connections to the coil. The CPS can absolutely tell the ECU to fire off and it could very well be telling the ICM to fire but there may not be any voltage to the ICM. Hell the ICM could be fried too. But always check to make sure theres voltage before we replace anything else.

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If you got a 4.0L:

 

Using a voltmeter or 12vdc testlight (preferred) check for Battery_Voltage_(B+) on the following pins (use battery_negative terminal for ground):
D1_5:  B+ (Hot at all times)
D2_4:  B+ (Hot during KEY ON/CRANKING).
D1_6:  KEY ON (B+ (Hot for 2-3 seconds)) or CRANKING (B+ (Hot during CRANK)).

 

D1_D2.jpg.6a80c3f7836373dcaeefc968569a8d65.jpg

 

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