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Intermittant Turn Signal Indicator


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On 5/4/2022 at 7:20 PM, Ωhm said:

C156_H ├———————————————┤C203_11

Disconnect C156. Disconnect C203.

Check for continuity between these two points (GRY/BLK) on the IP Harness side.

 

 

20 hours ago, White_Comanche said:

• Do a continuity test between the turn signal connector (under dash) and the middle C102 connector

I don't understand this testing.

 

 

Connect C156. With C203 disconnected measure for voltage between C203_10(BLK) and C203_11(GRY/BLK) with KEY ON and Left Turn Signal ON. Looking for 12vdc_0vdc_12vdc_ect_ect. Try and select a 20vdc range on your DVOM. In other words, auto ranging OFF.

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18 hours ago, Ωhm said:

Connect C156. With C203 disconnected measure for voltage between C203_10(BLK) and C203_11(GRY/BLK) with KEY ON and Left Turn Signal ON. Looking for 12vdc_0vdc_12vdc_ect_ect. Try and select a 20vdc range on your DVOM. In other words, auto ranging OFF.

Thanks for spelling out how to properly do these tests. Appreciate you getting quite specific. Electrical testing is quite foreign to me. I might go ahead and get a more capable multimeter. That yellow one you see in the photo is quite basic—only has auto ranging.

 

***************************************

 

19 hours ago, Ωhm said:
On 5/4/2022 at 6:20 PM, Ωhm said:

C156_H ├———————————————┤C203_11

Disconnect C156. Disconnect C203.

Check for continuity between these two points (GRY/BLK) on the IP Harness side.

 

 

On 5/22/2022 at 9:29 PM, White_Comanche said:

• Do a continuity test between the turn signal connector (under dash) and the middle C102 connector

I don't understand this testing.

 

 

It was quite late when writing the update that you quoted. Just realized that I had a typo with identifying that connector. Thanks to you, I now know specifically what continuity test to do. I'll report back.

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Ωhm,

Following up with the testing to diagnose my intermittent left turn signal bulb. I purchased a manual multimeter for testing — Performance Tool #W2974. Not a professional model, but it was affordable.

 

TEST 1

C156_H ├———————————————┤C203_11

Disconnect C156. Disconnect C203.

Check for continuity between these two points (GRY/BLK) on the IP Harness side.

• Result: Continuity was strong, with a loud beep, 0.0 showed on multimeter.

 

TEST 2

Connect C156. With C203 disconnected measure for voltage between C203_10(BLK) and C203_11(GRY/BLK) with KEY ON and Left Turn Signal ON. Looking for 12vdc_0vdc_12vdc_ect_ect. Try and select a 20vdc range on your DVOM. In other words, auto ranging OFF.

• Result: Voltage maxed out on the display at 8.99V. A friend suggested that I use a circuit tester for a visual aid in case my cheap multimeter wasn't quick enough at detection. I'd say the circuit tester illuminated at max brightness. Afterwards I did a control test on the battery (it had equal brightness).

 

As an aside, the day before I took apart my instrument cluster to give it a good dusting and cleaning. Replaced every bulb as well. Continuity is present across all electrical paths.

 

I'd like to know your thoughts. Thanks for the help.

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Your DVOM (W2974) should serve you well with 12vdc stuff, but maybe not so good with 'turned on turn signals'.

 

1 hour ago, White_Comanche said:

A friend suggested that I use a circuit tester for a visual aid in case my cheap multimeter wasn't quick enough at detection

Your friend gave you good advice about using the circuit tester (aka testlight) for what I was trying to do with a DVOM.

 

So, if that circuit tester blinked brightly like a turn signal (TEST 2) then vehicle and vehicle wiring has tested good. Seems to me, problem lies within the Instrument Cluster, even though it has also tested good. Check/replace BULB holder socket. How that for help. :dunno:
 

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On 5/29/2022 at 9:25 PM, Ωhm said:

How that for help. :dunno:

I think you, and the others have given me great help to figure this issue out. Greatly appreciate you taking the time to consider it all, and explaining the testing procedure in a way that I could get it done. Highly doubt I would have got as far as I did without it.

 

I'm gonna go ahead and assemble everything back together soon. Earlier in this thread I briefly mentioned that my C203 didn't seem positively seated when I was taking the cluster out in the first place. I remember the top-most squeeze clip seemed almost unclipped when shining a flashlight on it. If my suspensions are correct, after I get everything back together, proper pressure will always now be applied to the C203_10 & C203_11 (which are at the top of the connector)... and against the laminated circuit board.

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On 5/31/2022 at 12:13 PM, White_Comanche said:

Earlier in this thread I briefly mentioned that my C203 didn't seem positively seated when I was taking the cluster out in the first place

Keep us posted on this one. :L:

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  • 3 weeks later...

A few weekends ago I successfully reinstalled my instrument cluster. Much time was spent cleaning up the cluster as a whole. All new light bulbs were installed. I did repeated continuity tests on all electrical paths on the laminated circuit board until I was satisfied everything worked. Note: for anyone who has not removed/installed their instrument cluster I discovered the unit can slide back in much easier by removing its clear plastic 'lens'. It creates an extra 2 or 3mm of needed clearance. Also, removing the digital clock and cigarette lighter makes re-connecting the speedometer cable a breeze.

 

During all of this I made sure both of the electrical connectors were properly seated into the cluster housing. I wanted to ensure all four clips were actually fully clipped in. When removing the cluster I may have noticed my C203 connector was not positively seated down in the first place.

 

I'm happy to report that my left turn signal indicator light now WORKS!

 

ONOFFON.jpg.a2892fcf7fad11cd45ccc8bb27b2d20d.jpg

 

I'm cautiously leaning towards this issue is now fixed. If this reoccurs in the future I think there's only one other thing it could be.

 

Big thanks to everyone who has helped me work through this.

 

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