Stalling

[cromanyak]

When I got my truck the cansiter that operates the heater vents was missing. So I got one from a guy on here but when I hooked it up it lowered the idle a good bit, and now when I push the clutch in the idle drops to almost zero and sometimes stalls altogether. Then when I fire it back up the idle shoots up to about 2000 and stays there for a few seconds. Anyone have any idea why it would do this?

 

Chris

[Pete M]

Was the vacuum line that you plugged into the vacuum canister plugged before or open?

[cromanyak]

Before I got the canister it was open.

[Twisty]

Check the TPS, and adjust the voltage if necessary. This is what caused the stalling on my truck.

[Pete M]

Shot in the dark here, but try unplugging the battery for a while. In newer cars it resets the computer. For the life of me I can't remember if the old 'puters retain anything. What year is your truck?

[Confedneck]

battery trick works on obd1 and previous computer controlled vehicles... nothing 96 or newer

[Eagle]

The battery trick doesn't work on Renix models, either. (That's 86-90 for the 2.5L and 87-90 for the 4.0L). Every start is a "clean boot."

[cromanyak]

Yeah mine is an 88. I'll have to check the TPS. I don't think it runs quite right even without the canister hooked up. I know it's running rich because it backfires sometimes. Also the voltage gauge is showing around 16 amps so I need to replace the regulator. I think. Could that be messing the idle? I know someone mentioned something about adjusting the voltage on the TPS.

 

Chris

[Eagle]

Before you replace the voltmeter in the dash, check the voltage at the battery with a multimeter. The dash gauges are notoriously inaccurate. The one in my '88 XJ reads about 11 volts, but even when the dealership checked it with their scanner it was actually putting out (IIRC) 13.4 volts -- which is just about right.