howeitsdone Posted October 9, 2021 Share Posted October 9, 2021 I've got a weird one here Hazards work correctly when light's are off. Once I pull the knob to either running lights or headlights they begin to alternate. The left blinker cluster light turns on once I pull the knob into either position as well. Turns off once I place the stalk in the left position, but stays on for middle and right position. If the knob is set to running lights and the turn signal is in the left position, the left blinker light illuminates solid. Once I pull knob completely for headlights the blinker light goes off. I've swapped light bulbs from passenger to driver and no change. Swapped the 552 fuse and no change. Cleaned the C101 connector. Cleaned terminal connections. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted October 9, 2021 Share Posted October 9, 2021 You need to replace the parking light sockets. The grounds have gone bad, and they're trying to find a ground path back through the light circuit. Once you turn on the lights, that path is no longer available. This issue has been discussed and diagnosed many, many times. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
howeitsdone Posted October 9, 2021 Author Share Posted October 9, 2021 By "Parking Light Sockets" I assume you mean these? Because they work great. Or are you referring to the turn signal light sockets? Verifying so I don't buy the wrong thing. Also, what in the socket itself goes bad? Isn't it just metal contacts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted October 9, 2021 Share Posted October 9, 2021 I'm referring to the second photo. I believe the first photo is a side marker light socket, not a parking light socket. I don't know what goes bad, I just know they go bad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
howeitsdone Posted October 9, 2021 Author Share Posted October 9, 2021 Swapped both sockets and seems to have fixed the grounding issue but still no blinkers. Hazards do work. I’m getting 12v at the fuse panel when either left or right is engaged, but nothing at the grey wire at the connector behind the headlight. Relay works in the hazard position so I know it’s good. My guess is something is wrong with the wire attached to the blinker’s left terminal before it gets merged with the hazards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
howeitsdone Posted October 10, 2021 Author Share Posted October 10, 2021 Anyone with the "Motor Manual Guy" Manual know what this means? Says to reference SH 47,49. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
howeitsdone Posted October 13, 2021 Author Share Posted October 13, 2021 Figured out the above. Had the wrong manual. Got the factory electrical manual and has the paged I needed. After reading the brake fluid tears up the fuse panel, I decided to tackle the C100 connector. Like the C101, disgusting but there are more contacts so it just takes forever. Anyway, for some reason, there is continuity between the connector behind the left headlamp and quite a few different points on the C100. I'm scouring the manual, but don't see how any of them even connect. I'm taking an ohm reading from any pin on the connector behind the headlamp and just probing the C100 at different points and I get a reading which I find extremely strange. For example, #3 (GY) should connect directly to A1 on the C100, but it actually gets a reading on multiple pins as do others. I've refreshed the ground on the LH fender. No clue what's going on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted October 13, 2021 Share Posted October 13, 2021 Note the connector featured in this Tip: CRUISER'S MOSTLY RENIX TIPS CONNECTOR AND RELAY/RECEPTACLE REFRESHING OCTOBER 30, 2015 SALAD 35 COMMENTS EDIT I suggest unplugging EVERY electrical connection in the engine bay you can find, whether engine related or not, and spraying it out with a good electronics cleaner, visually inspecting the terminals making sure they haven’t retracted into the plastic holder, and then plugging it back together. There’s a critical 10-pin connector for the front lighting system located in front of the air cleaner and behind the left headlight assembly. Don’t miss that one. Also be sure that the connectors to the ballast resistor mounted near the air cleaner housing are clean and tight. ALL of the relays should be removed, the terminals wire-brushed until shiny, and the receptacles sprayed out with contact cleaner. Then plug them back in. I do this on every Renix Jeep I purchase or work on for someone else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
howeitsdone Posted October 13, 2021 Author Share Posted October 13, 2021 Thanks. C102 has been completely refreshed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
howeitsdone Posted October 13, 2021 Author Share Posted October 13, 2021 Small update: Moving to just the interior side of the C100 as I've done more testing and it appears to be an issue where I'm no longer getting voltage to the TURN/BU Fuse. I do have continuity between the fuse and the turn signal relay, and then from the relay to C100-A1. This is going to be a mini nightmare working on the back of the fuse block there is no good position to be in physically lol Here's to hoping it's just the connector at the fuse itself! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eaglescout526 Posted October 13, 2021 Share Posted October 13, 2021 5 minutes ago, PocketsEmptied said: there is no good position to be in physically lol Removing the seat actually does wonders for laying in the MJ and working on the fuse block. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
howeitsdone Posted October 13, 2021 Author Share Posted October 13, 2021 Another update: I am missing the Brown/Yellow wire to the TURN/BU terminal. You can see in the photo how one goes to the radio (like in the above diagram). So I jumped those to test and then somehow I lost continuity to the relay. So I said f-it let's jump those too and, well, turn signals work! I can't for the life of me figure out why the brown/yellow wire would be missing. I couldn't find it anywhere in there. I also don't know why I lost continuity to the relay from the TURN/BU fuse. I'm going to have to diagnose further and see about installing some new wires. I'll continue this in my build thread and if anything else comes up I'll post it here. I DO NOT recommend anyone running with the wires jumped on the outside like I have here for testing. Just to let it be said... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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