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Thought I’d share this here for more eyes. If you having interior lighting problems you should definitely look at replacing your headlight switch. All my exterior lights worked perfectly, but courtesy lights and dash light were non-existent. Changed out headlight switch and fixed all the interior lighting problems. I did change out the door courtesy switches and they work as they should now with the new headlight switch installed. Here’s a photo of the old switch.

 

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And let's also remind everyone to install a supplemental harness for the headlights!!!!!

 

HEADLIGHT HARNESS UPGRADE

Putco relaysHeadlamp harness

It’s easy to install a supplemental headlight harness.

From the factory, the voltage to the headlight bulbs travels from the battery, through connectors, inside the cabin, to the headlamp switch, and then back out to the lamps via undersized wire and more connectors. It’s not uncommon to find only 10.5 volts at the lamps.

The supplemental harness is installed so that it provides battery voltage to the lamps and is just triggered by the factory wiring. The result is about 35% brighter headlamps and headlight switches that don’t melt and burn out.

Here’s a link to a harness on ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/CERAMIC-H4-HEADLIGHT-RELAY-WIRING-HARNESS-2-HEADLAMP-LIGHT-BULB-SOCKET-PLUGS-7-/330997592807

Absolutely plug and play:

  • Remove grille and headlamp bulbs. I fed my harnesses from the passenger side starting between the battery and the back of the headlamp housing, over to the driver side.
  • Plug the driver side bulb into the new harness.
  • Attach the new harness’s ground wire under one of the small bolts on the radiator support after scraping the paint off under it.
  • Attach the harness to the existing harness behind the grille working toward the passenger side.
  • Plug the new harness plug into passenger headlamp.
  • Plug original headlamp plug into receptacle on new harness.
  • Attach the ground for the passenger side just like you did the driver side under a radiator support bolt.
  • Attach relays with provided bracket on the passenger side inner fender.
  • Connect power wires to battery.

 

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And THIS for the instrument panel lights:

 

IMPROVING THE INSTRUMENT PANEL GROUND

 

The ground point for the complete instrument cluster on your XJ or MJ is located up under the driver’s side dash. If you lay on your back and look up under there with a flashlight, without wearing a hat, you will see a black wire attached to a shiny piece of metal almost directly above the hood release knob. The screw will have either a ¼” or 5/16″ head on it.

This ground point is responsible for handling the ground circuit for the following items: Dome lamps, seat belt and key warnings, transmission power/comfort switch, wiper switch, headlamp switch and delay module, fog lamp switch, cargo lamp switch, all instrument panel grounds and illumination, power windows and door locks, cruise control dump valve, and a few more things.

The problem is that where the ground point is located does not share good contact with the chassis where the ground should be. The solution is simple:

  • Make up a jumper wire with #10 gauge wire about 10″ long. On one end, crimp on a ¼” round wire terminal. On the other end, crimp on a 3/8″ round wire terminal.
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  • Remove the screw from the existing ground wire and attach the small terminal of your jumper so that the original wire and your new jumper share the same attaching point, one over the other.
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  • Look above the driver’s side plastic kick panel just forward of the top of the hood release knob. You will see an 8mm stud there. Attach the large terminal end there with a washer and nut over it tightened securely. Use a coating of OxGard at all ground contact surfaces when attaching the screw and nut.

IP ground location

**Special note for Comanche owners: Make your jumper wire 12″ long and attach it on the driver’s side kick panel close to the fusebox on the 8mm stud.**

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