OldSch88L Posted September 4, 2020 Share Posted September 4, 2020 I'm about at my wit's end with my transfer case's output shaft seal always leaking; I think I'm at #3 or 4, somewhat lost track. It's a 242 with external slip yoke. The original and second ones blew until I found out that the breather was plugged; you could see the seal's lips folded onto themselves and ripped. So fixed that, still leaks. Changed it again, #4, still leaks. Took a closer look, the lips and seal itself seem intact, doesn't seem to be a groove in the shaft either. Recently I noticed a vibration above 80 Km/H, so I decided to measure driveline angle, and my diff is off by 6 degrees compared to the transfer case, so I got pinion angle shims on order. While under there, I also found out that the transmission mount is shot; it's pretty easy to move the drivetrain around. Do you think that the combination of vibration and bad mount caused the output shaft to wobble a bit, causing fluid to get past the seal? After the I get the shims, I'll also order a new mount and seal, but after that, if it still leaks, I'm seriously considering buying another t-case P.S. the breather tube flows freely, and the output shaft doesn't seem to have play in it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MJCARENA Posted September 4, 2020 Share Posted September 4, 2020 Put the new one mount in first before you shim it. My experience with worn out mounts is that they sag quite a bit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted September 5, 2020 Share Posted September 5, 2020 nothing to lose by fixing the mount and seeing what happens. I mean, it's bad anyways, right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldSch88L Posted September 5, 2020 Author Share Posted September 5, 2020 23 hours ago, MJCARENA said: Put the new one mount in first before you shim it. My experience with worn out mounts is that they sag quite a bit. Crap, I didn't think about that, and my shims are already on order I hope the measurement don't change too much; IIRC, I think I read somewhere that you kinda can get away with up to 2 degrees discrepancy... 6 hours ago, Pete M said: nothing to lose by fixing the mount and seeing what happens. I mean, it's bad anyways, right? Well yeah, you're right, but it's just that I never thought something as simple as a seal could become such a complication. It's still weird having to go to all those lenghts, especially if it fixes it... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted September 5, 2020 Share Posted September 5, 2020 if you grab the driveshaft does it wiggle at the t-case end? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldSch88L Posted September 9, 2020 Author Share Posted September 9, 2020 Quote On 9/5/2020 at 3:32 PM, Pete M said: if you grab the driveshaft does it wiggle at the t-case end? No it doesn't seem to at first glance Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiNi Beast Posted September 10, 2020 Share Posted September 10, 2020 just use a blow torch and let the mother 🔥 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted September 10, 2020 Share Posted September 10, 2020 17 hours ago, OldSch88L said: be sure to shake it as hard as you can. any play will become huge once it's spinning at 5 million rpm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldSch88L Posted November 28, 2020 Author Share Posted November 28, 2020 A little update; I think I figured it out. Replaced it again while replacing my engine and tranny mounts and pinion angle shims. The t-case output shaft was stiff as a rock, absolutely zero play. I inspected the seal and again, the lip popped outwards, catched the circlip and ripped. After seeing similar posts on Wrangler forums, I'm pretty sure it was user error while installing. The rubber seal is a bit stiff and tight, and catches on the circlip groove on the output shaft, flipping and/or ripping the seal. So I put electrical tape over the groove, took a finger of a nitrile glove and slipped it over the splines, and put oil on everything. I slipped the seal on, hammered it into place and took the tape off, and all is good so far, whereas before it would last like 3 days, a week tops before leaking. Hope this helps some of you! The problematic seal: The risky bits: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted December 1, 2020 Share Posted December 1, 2020 good idea! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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