billyblankss Posted July 6, 2020 Author Share Posted July 6, 2020 While i'm looking at replacement drive shafts - nobody markets one specific to the MJ - can I be sure the same year XJ (87) would be the same for me? Every site even rough country has a driveshaft for the XJ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted July 6, 2020 Share Posted July 6, 2020 the rear MJ shaft is like a foot longer than an XJ shaft. -double check your rear pinion angle (losing a shaft is quite rare and leads me to think something else might be wrong) -measure for a new shaft using the method on Tom's site -buy new shaft -wait patently -install new shaft -go have fun. I can't seem to find an image of it, but sealing the rear of the t-case is easy. just wrap a few 8" lengths over the end to seal it, then wrap the roll around and around to keep it all there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted July 6, 2020 Share Posted July 6, 2020 if you want to get an SYE, those are way stronger but way more of a job since you need to take apart the t-case to install it. not sure what level of project you're looking for. oh, and now's a great time to upgrade the rear axle's ujoint straps to the little U-bolts. way better Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dzimm Posted July 6, 2020 Share Posted July 6, 2020 25 minutes ago, Pete M said: oh, and now's a great time to upgrade the rear axle's ujoint straps to the little U-bolts. way better This^^^ kind of a pain to drill them out but not too bad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Torq_Shep Posted July 6, 2020 Share Posted July 6, 2020 37 minutes ago, Pete M said: if you want to get an SYE, those are way stronger but way more of a job since you need to take apart the t-case to install it. not sure what level of project you're looking for. oh, and now's a great time to upgrade the rear axle's ujoint straps to the little U-bolts. way better I didn't even know this was a mod that was done. I have always hated those stupid straps... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billyblankss Posted July 6, 2020 Author Share Posted July 6, 2020 37 minutes ago, Pete M said: if you want to get an SYE, those are way stronger but way more of a job since you need to take apart the t-case to install it. not sure what level of project you're looking for. oh, and now's a great time to upgrade the rear axle's ujoint straps to the little U-bolts. way better I've seen those - any idea where to pick some up? Those little u bolts look way tougher. Did not want to get into a SYE install at this point. Maybe over the winter but i'd really like to drive for awhile. I'm hoping you're not on to something with the pinion angle point... It is a 6.5 inch lift give or take and i'm hoping that was just enough to do it. I'm going to get some duct tape like you guys mentioned, go there and disconnect the drive shaft and tape over the hole in the rear and take backroads as much as I can i suppose. I know when i was driving it before the thing came out it was smooth on the highway, it only became a problem while i was downshifting a bunch to slow down for a turn. That could be just coincidence idk. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billyblankss Posted July 6, 2020 Author Share Posted July 6, 2020 Nevermind, i think i found them: https://www.4wheelparts.com/p/dana-spicer-u-bolt-kits/21761 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billyblankss Posted July 7, 2020 Author Share Posted July 7, 2020 Update - duct taped over the rear yoke and put the rear driveshaft in the bed. Drove in 4 hi for about 60 miles about half city and half highway. Made it home in one piece. Definitely felt vibration in fourth doing about 65mph. Could be the fact I have yet to get the front end alignment done post-lift, could also be the tires and wheels I put on that were lightly used take offs from a Rubicon, I know at least one of the wheel weights fell off while I was moving them before installing. I also noticed I really heard the clutch and gears engage /disengage when shifting. Could be more noticeable because the floor is just rubberized metal, no carpet, and I'm not used to listening while the truck is in 4wd when shifting idk. Gonna order the new driveshaft today. Then spend some time going back over everything I touched when installing the lift, and greasing and torquing anything I may have missed. Side note I'm looking for a guide on the proportioning valve brake setup. When I got the truck the rear proportioning valve lever wasn't connected to the axle. I have yet to find a good picture of what the stock setup looks like. I received a proportioning valve bracket with the lift kit to compensate for the new height but I had nothing to reference and not knowing what it looked like connected it's been confusing. The braking was OK, but weak. I had to change bleeder valves in the rear drum brakes because they were too seized up to bleed after the lift. I put in the quick bleeder screws as a replacement. It's made it fairly simple to bleed but i haven't gotten super comfy since that they were working fantastic yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted July 7, 2020 Share Posted July 7, 2020 the little swing arm should be just above the 3oclock position when viewed from the rear bumper. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billyblankss Posted July 7, 2020 Author Share Posted July 7, 2020 4 hours ago, Pete M said: the little swing arm should be just above the 3oclock position when viewed from the rear bumper. Ahh i see now that the linkage is not there and I don't think ever was. I'll look to try to find that part or i'm guessing maybe people fab something up idk. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted July 7, 2020 Share Posted July 7, 2020 can you snap a pic of what you do have? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billyblankss Posted July 9, 2020 Author Share Posted July 9, 2020 Here - I put the twist tie there so it would stay in position. It appears that at least since I've owned the truck there has been no linkage to the proportioning valve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted July 9, 2020 Share Posted July 9, 2020 I think Don did a writeup on replacing the linkage with parts from the hardware store. should be in the link in my sig Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now