BeatCJ Posted April 12, 2020 Share Posted April 12, 2020 I am working on getting the new to me 1987 4.0 Comanche running. I have power to the fuel pump plug, I will be swapping in a new pump today. As I was checking, I measured the resistance at the ballast. I was reading ohms. What's the correct resistance at the fuel pump ballast? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted April 12, 2020 Share Posted April 12, 2020 I think 1.1. It may say on the back of it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeatCJ Posted April 12, 2020 Author Share Posted April 12, 2020 Thanks, I will pop it off and look. Freaking lockring is fighting me. New gasket was quite a bit thicker, I didn't even try it. I think my problem is the the new pickup screen is slightly taller, forcing the mount to can't. Two of the tabs can catch, but I haven't yet got it under the tab closest to the back of the truck I'm afraid I may need to drop the tank, so I'm not on my back reaching up. Errrr Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted April 12, 2020 Share Posted April 12, 2020 Spray silicone lube on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMO413 Posted April 12, 2020 Share Posted April 12, 2020 If it's a factory tank there is a bracket in the baffle that the bottom of the sender goes in. I also use Vaseline on the sender seal. It will hold it in place and the lock ring guess on easier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustEmptyEveryPocket Posted April 12, 2020 Share Posted April 12, 2020 My advice is to always drop the tank. The time it takes to drop it is saved by not having to fiddle around trying to get things to line up and get the lock ring back in. Just like you are experiencing right now. Best of luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeatCJ Posted April 13, 2020 Author Share Posted April 13, 2020 Thanks for the advice. I am more thankful than ever this is a California truck. It took me about 5 minutes to drop the tank. With it out and on it's side, things went together easily. I did use a light skim of Vaseline. Got the tank back in, and Woot! I could hear the pump run. But then, it wouldn't pump fuel. I pulled the line off, nothing out of the pump. I could suck fuel out of a 3/8 hose attached to the discharge side, so it was together. One of the things I didn't like with the new pump was that polarity wasn't marked, so I assembled it physically like the old pump. I didn't test that it pumped before I assembled it. Hmmmph. So I pulled the pump out, cut the top off an empty gallon oil jug, clamped it solid, plunked the sender assembly in, added enough gas to cover, and applied power. Bubbles. So I reversed the polarity, and the quart of gas almost disappeared into the can I had the hose in. There's that @$$ U ME thing jumping up to bite me. So, I thought to myself, "I'll give it one shot to put the assembly back into the tank. Sure enough, first try! So, I tried the key again, I could hear that the pump sounded like it was under load. I worked the key about 5 times to prime the fuel rail, and walked to front to see if there was fuel at the Schrader valve, and there is fuel all over the top of the intake. Well, Darn! I guess all of the O-rings on the injectors are shot. Looks like it was leaking where the fuel pressure regulator attaches to the fuel rail, too. As dirty as the throttle body is, I think I'm just going to install new injectors before I try it again. Recommendations on where to get them? I want to go with an upgrade injector. I have gotten through 1 - 5 on Cruiser54's list, throttle body cleaning, I plan to make my way through 11 before I get injectors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMO413 Posted April 13, 2020 Share Posted April 13, 2020 I have bought a couple sets off eBay. Bosch 746 4 hole is a perfect replacement. http://cruiser54.com/?p=438 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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