eaglescout526 Posted September 27, 2019 Share Posted September 27, 2019 Yup. I had a leaking slave and it was obvious. I left it in until it gave up. Check the condition of the hard line rubber. If that’s cracked in anyway it can let minuets amount of air in. You could just have a crap master cylinder. I had one and the pressure varied from running and not running. I still have an issue now to where if I take my foot completely off the pedal I lose some pressure and have to build it back up while driving but I’ve just held my foot on the pedal to keep it from doing that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjeff87 Posted September 27, 2019 Share Posted September 27, 2019 1 hour ago, utahmj said: Yes I made sure the Nylon straps were still on the Slave Cylinder keeping it compressed when I installed it. When you say the hoses that attach to the TO that might have popped out, are you referring to the ones that run directly into the Slave Cylinder? Yes, I'm talking about the 2 hard lines that go into the slave inside the bell. You push them in (with O-rings attached) then slide the little U shaped retainer clips through the small holes to hold the lines in. One of mine the clip fell out and the line popped back out. But, you would likely see alot of clutch fluid leaking out of the bell if that were your case. If you're positive you're not leaking, you just need to keep bleeding it, or your master is bad. I know there are different clutch masters depending on vehicle (YJ/TJ/XJ-MJ) and different year ranges that have a different effective pushrod length according to the setup. Did your new master specify it was for an XJ/MJ with your year and type of driveline? You *might* just have the wrong master installed and don't have enough throw on the pushrod to disengage the clutch fully. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
utahmj Posted September 27, 2019 Author Share Posted September 27, 2019 1 hour ago, mjeff87 said: Yes, I'm talking about the 2 hard lines that go into the slave inside the bell. You push them in (with O-rings attached) then slide the little U shaped retainer clips through the small holes to hold the lines in. One of mine the clip fell out and the line popped back out. But, you would likely see alot of clutch fluid leaking out of the bell if that were your case. If you're positive you're not leaking, you just need to keep bleeding it, or your master is bad. I know there are different clutch masters depending on vehicle (YJ/TJ/XJ-MJ) and different year ranges that have a different effective pushrod length according to the setup. Did your new master specify it was for an XJ/MJ with your year and type of driveline? You *might* just have the wrong master installed and don't have enough throw on the pushrod to disengage the clutch fully. I gotcha, I have not seen any visual leaks yet, but I will double check when I go to bleed it again. I got it from Autozone and I know I got one for the MJ but now that I think about it I don't think I confirmed the drive train. With the split year on 1989 I guess it is possible it could be the one for the Aisen. But even then, right before the Slave Cylinder went I put the new Master Cylinder on and bled it, it worked good and the slave worked enough to take me around the block, but then getting back to my house it started leaking bad which was the Slave Cylinder. In other words, the MC worked a good 5 or 6 times until the SC went which I am assuming was just do to all the pressure from the new MC and bleeding it, causing it to finally blow up the worn out SC. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eaglescout526 Posted September 27, 2019 Share Posted September 27, 2019 Hmmm. Sounds like you need to find a pukegoat BA10/5 slave. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
utahmj Posted September 27, 2019 Author Share Posted September 27, 2019 1 minute ago, eaglescout526 said: Hmmm. Sounds like you need to find a pukegoat BA10/5 slave. Yeah I haven't heard too much good about this pug of a tranny lol. Are you saying a new one? The slave I threw in there was listed to fit the Peugeot BA10/5. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eaglescout526 Posted September 27, 2019 Share Posted September 27, 2019 If it’s listed right and fits then there is nothing wrong with it unless it also said it would fit an AX15. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
utahmj Posted September 28, 2019 Author Share Posted September 28, 2019 Hey guys I just barely got done bleeding the living crap out of the system, I went through about 14 oz of brake fluid. I tried cracking it from the top line a few times, didn’t really help, then I bleed it over and over from the bottom. I get great pressure on the pedal and then it does not even want to try and go in gear. There is no leaks coming from anywhere. I am really stumped and giving up hope on this one. Please let me know any suggestions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eaglescout526 Posted September 28, 2019 Share Posted September 28, 2019 I'll give you some inspiration. When LR gives me a hell of a time which she does because she can be a stubborn B****, I get into your spot. Hell I thought about getting a new vehicle and dumping the project after fighting the same shifting issue after blowing the trans and changing the pilot bearing. But I stuck with it and thoroughly thought about it after a solid week and a half until I was testing odd things like the pilot bearing seat. Don't give up on yours. These trucks are having hell of a life and no one should ever give up on these neglected redheaded step childs. Like what mjeff said. Its possible that the over the counter parts could not be the right fit at all. It could be a master cylinder for a 91-92. They are dubbed as crap parts for a reason on here. It could be for a YJ as the piston rod lengths are too short for travel for our trucks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
utahmj Posted September 28, 2019 Author Share Posted September 28, 2019 6 hours ago, mjeff87 said: Yes, I'm talking about the 2 hard lines that go into the slave inside the bell. You push them in (with O-rings attached) then slide the little U shaped retainer clips through the small holes to hold the lines in. One of mine the clip fell out and the line popped back out. But, you would likely see alot of clutch fluid leaking out of the bell if that were your case. If you're positive you're not leaking, you just need to keep bleeding it, or your master is bad. I know there are different clutch masters depending on vehicle (YJ/TJ/XJ-MJ) and different year ranges that have a different effective pushrod length according to the setup. Did your new master specify it was for an XJ/MJ with your year and type of driveline? You *might* just have the wrong master installed and don't have enough throw on the pushrod to disengage the clutch fully. I just barely got done bleeding the living crap out of the system, I went through about 14 oz of brake fluid. I tried cracking it from the top line a few times, didn’t really help, then I bleed it over and over from the bottom. I get great pressure on the pedal and then it does not even want to try and go in gear. There is no leaks coming from anywhere. I am really stumped and giving up hope on this one. Please let me know any suggestions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
utahmj Posted October 6, 2019 Author Share Posted October 6, 2019 Hey guys, I hope one of you will still be able to help me on this. I took the Comanche to a local mechanic. They had no idea what the problem was unless they dropped the tranny, they said they only suspect that the clutch is in backwards. I took it for a drive and was able to speed shift. The clutch has no slipping when I am in gear and hammer on the gas. But when I press in the clutch and rev the engine the clutch slips. This leads me to think that the clutch can’t be in backwards because if it was, it would slip with or without the clutch pressed in when it is in gear. Is this correct? Also if that were the case wouldn’t it be making some weird noises as it would probably be rubbing against the inside of the flywheel? Also I pulled the master cylinder out and compared it to the OEM one. Compressed and decompressed they are pretty much the same size. I am going to try and get it warrantied anyway. Please let me know what you guys think. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
utahmj Posted October 6, 2019 Author Share Posted October 6, 2019 On 9/27/2019 at 7:20 PM, eaglescout526 said: I'll give you some inspiration. When LR gives me a hell of a time which she does because she can be a stubborn B****, I get into your spot. Hell I thought about getting a new vehicle and dumping the project after fighting the same shifting issue after blowing the trans and changing the pilot bearing. But I stuck with it and thoroughly thought about it after a solid week and a half until I was testing odd things like the pilot bearing seat. Don't give up on yours. These trucks are having hell of a life and no one should ever give up on these neglected redheaded step childs. Like what mjeff said. Its possible that the over the counter parts could not be the right fit at all. It could be a master cylinder for a 91-92. They are dubbed as crap parts for a reason on here. It could be for a YJ as the piston rod lengths are too short for travel for our trucks. I took the Comanche to a local mechanic. They had no idea what the problem was unless they dropped the tranny, they said they only suspect that the clutch is in backwards. I took it for a drive and was able to speed shift. The clutch has no slipping when I am in gear and hammer on the gas. But when I press in the clutch and rev the engine the clutch slips. This leads me to think that the clutch can’t be in backwards because if it was, it would slip with or without the clutch pressed in when it is in gear. Is this correct? Also if it was I would probably be hearing some sort of weird noises coming from it, as it would be probably rubbing against the inside of the flywheel, I do not hear any weird noises. I also pulled the master cylinder out and compared it to the OEM one. Compressed and decompressed they are pretty much the same size. I am going to try and get it warrantied anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now