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utahmj

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  1. utahmj
    I took the Comanche to a local mechanic. They had no idea what the problem was unless they dropped the tranny, they said they only suspect that the clutch is in backwards. I took it for a drive and was able to speed shift. The clutch has no slipping when I am in gear and hammer on the gas. But when I press in the clutch and rev the engine the clutch slips. This leads me to think that the clutch can’t be in backwards because if it was, it would slip with or without the clutch pressed in when it is in gear. Is this correct? Also if it was I would probably be hearing some sort of weird noises coming from it, as it would be probably rubbing against the inside of the flywheel, I do not hear any weird noises. I also pulled the master cylinder out and compared it to the OEM one. Compressed and decompressed they are pretty much the same size. I am going to try and get it warrantied anyway.
  2. utahmj
    Hey guys, I hope one of you will still be able to help me on this. I took the Comanche to a local mechanic. They had no idea what the problem was unless they dropped the tranny, they said they only suspect that the clutch is in backwards. I took it for a drive and was able to speed shift. The clutch has no slipping when I am in gear and hammer on the gas. But when I press in the clutch and rev the engine the clutch slips. This leads me to think that the clutch can’t be in backwards because if it was, it would slip with or without the clutch pressed in when it is in gear. Is this correct? Also if that were the case wouldn’t it be making some weird noises as it would probably be rubbing against the inside of the flywheel? Also I pulled the master cylinder out and compared it to the OEM one. Compressed and decompressed they are pretty much the same size. I am going to try and get it warrantied anyway. Please let me know what you guys think.
  3. utahmj
    I just barely got done bleeding the living crap out of the system, I went through about 14 oz of brake fluid. I tried cracking it from the top line a few times, didn’t really help, then I bleed it over and over from the bottom. I get great pressure on the pedal and then it does not even want to try and go in gear. There is no leaks coming from anywhere. I am really stumped and giving up hope on this one. Please let me know any suggestions.
  4. utahmj
    Hey guys I just barely got done bleeding the living crap out of the system, I went through about 14 oz of brake fluid. I tried cracking it from the top line a few times, didn’t really help, then I bleed it over and over from the bottom. I get great pressure on the pedal and then it does not even want to try and go in gear. There is no leaks coming from anywhere. I am really stumped and giving up hope on this one. Please let me know any suggestions.
  5. utahmj
    Yeah I haven't heard too much good about this pug of a tranny lol. Are you saying a new one? The slave I threw in there was listed to fit the Peugeot BA10/5.
  6. utahmj
    I gotcha, I have not seen any visual leaks yet, but I will double check when I go to bleed it again. I got it from Autozone and I know I got one for the MJ but now that I think about it I don't think I confirmed the drive train. With the split year on 1989 I guess it is possible it could be the one for the Aisen. But even then, right before the Slave Cylinder went I put the new Master Cylinder on and bled it, it worked good and the slave worked enough to take me around the block, but then getting back to my house it started leaking bad which was the Slave Cylinder. In other words, the MC worked a good 5 or 6 times until the SC went which I am assuming was just do to all the pressure from the new MC and bleeding it, causing it to finally blow up the worn out SC.
  7. utahmj
    Yeah I will give bleeding the snot out of it a try, I compressed the clutch pedal all the way and left the reservoir cap off over night to see If it will force itself out. Also I have been lifting the truck up in the front with a jack for more room underneath the truck when I am bleeding it. Do I need to have the truck level when bleeding? Or does it not matter and it should force itself out no matter what?
  8. utahmj
    Yes I made sure the Nylon straps were still on the Slave Cylinder keeping it compressed when I installed it. When you say the hoses that attach to the TO that might have popped out, are you referring to the ones that run directly into the Slave Cylinder?
  9. utahmj
    Between the bell housing and the dustpan/engine I do not see any leaks. This is where it was leaking before I removed the transmission because I assumed it was leaking from the Slave Cylinder. Now with the new one in, I do not see any leaks. Is this what your issue was when you had problems with different pressure when running and not running?
  10. utahmj
    One thing I am really getting stumped about is as to why I am loosing pressure when the truck is running and I press in the clutch to get it in gear. The pressure should not change running or not running correct? When the truck is off it feels great. Then I start it and then after several times of pressing the clutch to get it in gear it goes soft, maybe not all of the pressure goes away but it does goes soft. Then when I turn it off and pump the clutch it builds up the pressure again. I also am not seeing any visual leaks anywhere and the fluid level is the same. One thing to mention is when I am bleeding it the truck is not level, would this trap any air? I figured it would get pushed out either way.
  11. utahmj
    I apologize I looked at my order and the slave cylinder is actually a Southeast Clutch brand.
  12. utahmj
    Man that would be rough... as far as I know the one in it was good so I said screw it lol. Is it possible that if the clutch was facing the wrong side it would cause my issue? I want to say that for sure I put it in the correct way because it had an indication on the clutch saying “flywheel side”. I want to say I put it in correctly but at this point I will consider any possibility and this is the first time I have ever done any of this stuff. I just wonder if it was facing the wrong way if it would cause these exact issues?
  13. utahmj
    I see, are you saying that if I were to install the new one incorrectly and not seated correctly it would cause this?
  14. utahmj
    My apologies I thought it was a Dorman brand but I checked my order and it looks like it is actually a Southeast Clutch Brand.
  15. utahmj
    I did not. The clutch kit came with a new one, but the one that was in it seemed to be good, plus I did not have a bearing pulling tool. I decided to keep the one in it and greased it up a little bit.
  16. utahmj
    Do you by chance remember what brands did not work for you in the past? Currently I have a Duralast Master Cylinder and Dorman Slave Cylinder. Did you try either of those two? Also, where did you purchase the Crown MC and SC?
  17. utahmj
    The MC is new and is a Duralast brand also The slave cylinder is new and a Dorman brand. Have you heard of people specially having trouble with the Dorman brand failing? The reviews seemed good for the BA10/5. I would love to do a tranny swap, unfortunately I am low on funds at the moment and my ZJ will need a tranny rebuild, which sadly may force me to sell the MJ, which is why I am trying to get it going as soon as possible.
  18. utahmj
    I believe my master cylinder is a Duralast brand. Are you saying the Crown brand or master cylinder is what worked for you? I did not replace the hose because it looked fairly good but due to the connection to the slave cylinder being rusty we could get disconnect it. So we ended up disconnecting it from the top of the master cylinder instead. To feed it down into the engine bay and to the ground we had to bend the living snot out of the brass hose. When I put it back on, I was somewhat able to bend it back to its original form but it is still deformed a little bit. I wonder if I should just replace it, but still I am not sure how that would be my issue if I am getting good pressure. I did try starting the truck in first gear, it would start just fine but will only turn the tire no matter if I press the clutch or not.
  19. utahmj
    Sorry for the novel, I am just trying to be as detailed as possible, lol.
  20. utahmj
    Hey guys, I got a problem on my hands with my 1989 MJ 4.0 2WD with the BA10/5 transmission. To start at the first of my problems, my clutch pedal started to feel soggy. I checked the fluid level and it was low, so I topped it off. A week or so later it was soggy again and low so I topped it off again. Doing this over and over I decided to check the master cylinder. It didnt look like it was leaking too bad but it was a little bit, so I changed that out and bled it. After I bled it, it felt great, but then after only driving it around the block it went soggy to zero pressure and then there was fluid leaking between the dust pan and tranny. So I figured it was the slave cylinder all along. I then dropped the transmission and replaced the slave cylinder, while I was in there I replaced the clutch and pressure plate as well. Now with everything back together and after bleeding the clutch I get good pressure, but when I start the engine and try to put it in gear it will not allow me to at all, and the clutch pressure starts to slowly fade away. After shutting the engine off it seems like the clutch pressure gradually builds up again. I then bled it again and then pushed in the clutch while I’m gear and had another person try moving the truck. It will not budge. I can hear the clutch moving a little bit by repeatedly pressing the clutch with the engine off. I tried bleeding it several other times and still the same issue occurs. The tranny shifts perfectly while the engine is off and it has fresh fluid. I am stumped on this one guys... as of this moment I am going to try leaving the reservoir cap off over night while the clutch is pressed all the way down to see if any air in the system can work it’s way out. I would really appreciate any of your guys help as I am trying to get this going as soon as possible. Thanks.
  21. utahmj
    Mine is a manual. I see yours is 2wd have you had any issues in the snow?
  22. utahmj
    Ideally that would be my perfect DD as well. I am just wondering if it is really going to be worth my time and effort to get it all done. I think it would really test my patience lol. I will absorb all the info I can and come up with a game plan, heck I may just try and do a True Trac dif like Eagle did. Thanks for all this info I appreciate it!
  23. utahmj
    My current DD is a F-150 with 4wd if I'm honest I did not use the 4wd all too often maybe a couple of times but it did pretty good without weight in the back. Honestly it sounds more appealing to do what you did and put a true Trac in there then to do the whole swap. I will have to do some more research.
  24. utahmj
    I guess it would not make it or break it on my daily drive, the snow here in Utah can get pretty bad, but I could drive the Zj on a bad snow day. The Mj would be my daily but I would still like a 4wd to play on the weekends and to make it the Jeep it should be.
  25. utahmj
    That makes me feel a bit better. MJs are super rare in my area which is why I pulled the trigger so quick on this one, and I feel like a decent donor XJ is too. So far I have not had much luck finding a manual that doesn’t have a ton of miles on it. I could find a great donor with a auto all day long, but I would really like to stick with the manual. Maybe it’s worth it to just convert it to auto as well?
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