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Replace BA10-5 with AX-15


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My truck: 1987 MJ 4.0L, currently BA 10-5 and NP231. Rear axle is a Ford 8.8 with 4.10 gearing, front axle is Dana 30 with 4.10.

Possible donor: 1998 (or 1999?) XJ with 4.0L, AX-15 and NP231.

 

I have done some reading on this and had a few points to clarify and opinions to gather. My truck is my DD, so I need this to come apart and go back together in a weekend, without the "oh crap I forgot to get xyz part". It also probably needs to happen sooner rather than later. My BA 10-5 has been howling for months, has lost syncros for 1st gear, and is sloppy enough I can slip shift all the way up and down through the gears easily. For a bonus, I noticed that in fifth gear the stick will move two inches or so forward and back depending on if I am accelerating or decelerating. I assume that is not normal. Anyways:

 

  1. Is there any way to check that the transmission is good before I get the vehicle? The Cherokee does not run currently.
  2. Assuming I buy it, what should I replace while the transmission (AX-15) it out of the vehicle? front and rear seals? etc.
  3. Getting the 74 CJ 304 pilot bushing should be all the extra pieces I need, correct? I plan on renting a pilot bearing puller from Orielleys. 
  4. I know the flywheel has to match my engine (renix). What about clutch disc and pressure plate? Match the engine or transmission? Recommended brands?
  5. Transfer Case linkage: Do you recommend BoostWerks or Novak? I do not want to fuss around with the stock linkage.
  6. Speedometer: Will my cable screw on to the connector of the new transfer case? What could go wrong here?
  7. The transfer case output will be a sealed style, not a slip style like my old one, correct? Will a new driveshaft need to be made? Is Tom Woods still the go to for custom drive shafts?

 

Sorry for the blast of questions. I really have tried to read and research before posting this, just looking for confirmations. Please let me know if anything else that I have not thought of. Thank you for any and all help/ advice.

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20 hours ago, JustEmptyEveryPocket said:

My truck: 1987 MJ 4.0L, currently BA 10-5 and NP231. Rear axle is a Ford 8.8 with 4.10 gearing, front axle is Dana 30 with 4.10.

Possible donor: 1998 (or 1999?) XJ with 4.0L, AX-15 and NP231.

 

I have done some reading on this and had a few points to clarify and opinions to gather. My truck is my DD, so I need this to come apart and go back together in a weekend, without the "oh crap I forgot to get xyz part". It also probably needs to happen sooner rather than later. My BA 10-5 has been howling for months, has lost syncros for 1st gear, and is sloppy enough I can slip shift all the way up and down through the gears easily. For a bonus, I noticed that in fifth gear the stick will move two inches or so forward and back depending on if I am accelerating or decelerating. I assume that is not normal. Anyways:

 

  1. Is there any way to check that the transmission is good before I get the vehicle? The Cherokee does not run currently. 
  2. Assuming I buy it, what should I replace while the transmission (AX-15) it out of the vehicle? front and rear seals? etc. REAR SEAL IS EASY. FRONT SEAL REQUIRE REMOVAL OF THE RETAINER TO REPLACE SEAL
  3. Getting the 74 CJ 304 pilot bushing should be all the extra pieces I need, correct? I plan on renting a pilot bearing puller from Orielleys. 
  4. I know the flywheel has to match my engine (renix). What about clutch disc and pressure plate? Match the engine or transmission? Recommended brands?  YOU USE CLUTCH KIT FOR THE AX15  
  5. Transfer Case linkage: Do you recommend BoostWerks or Novak? I do not want to fuss around with the stock linkage. BOOSTWERKS IS CHEAPER AND BETTER
  6. Speedometer: Will my cable screw on to the connector of the new transfer case? What could go wrong here? YES IT IS DIRECT DROP-IN. 
  7. The transfer case output will be a sealed style, not a slip style like my old one, correct? Will a new driveshaft need to be made? Is Tom Woods still the go to for custom drive shafts? CORRECT IT IS SEALED TYPE.

 

Sorry for the blast of questions. I really have tried to read and research before posting this, just looking for confirmations. Please let me know if anything else that I have not thought of. Thank you for any and all help/ advice.

 

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On 9/29/2018 at 6:42 PM, JustEmptyEveryPocket said:

My truck: 1987 MJ 4.0L, currently BA 10-5 and NP231. Rear axle is a Ford 8.8 with 4.10 gearing, front axle is Dana 30 with 4.10.

Possible donor: 1998 (or 1999?) XJ with 4.0L, AX-15 and NP231.

 

I have done some reading on this and had a few points to clarify and opinions to gather. My truck is my DD, so I need this to come apart and go back together in a weekend, without the "oh crap I forgot to get xyz part". It also probably needs to happen sooner rather than later. My BA 10-5 has been howling for months, has lost syncros for 1st gear, and is sloppy enough I can slip shift all the way up and down through the gears easily. For a bonus, I noticed that in fifth gear the stick will move two inches or so forward and back depending on if I am accelerating or decelerating. I assume that is not normal. Anyways:

 

  1. Is there any way to check that the transmission is good before I get the vehicle? The Cherokee does not run currently.
  2. Assuming I buy it, what should I replace while the transmission (AX-15) it out of the vehicle? front and rear seals? etc.
  3. Getting the 74 CJ 304 pilot bushing should be all the extra pieces I need, correct? I plan on renting a pilot bearing puller from Orielleys. 
  4. I know the flywheel has to match my engine (renix). What about clutch disc and pressure plate? Match the engine or transmission? Recommended brands?
  5. Transfer Case linkage: Do you recommend BoostWerks or Novak? I do not want to fuss around with the stock linkage.
  6. Speedometer: Will my cable screw on to the connector of the new transfer case? What could go wrong here?
  7. The transfer case output will be a sealed style, not a slip style like my old one, correct? Will a new driveshaft need to be made? Is Tom Woods still the go to for custom drive shafts?

 

Sorry for the blast of questions. I really have tried to read and research before posting this, just looking for confirmations. Please let me know if anything else that I have not thought of. Thank you for any and all help/ advice.

4. The clutch should match the trans.  When you order the clutch kit, be sure you get one for your 98 AX15.  The pressure plates changed from the internal slave to the external slaves.  I've had good Luk with Luk.

 

6.  Yes.  I have an AX15 from a 98 XJ, also.  My cable just screws on.

 

I did my swap in one weekend.  I started taking things off on Friday PM and had it all back together on Sunday.

 

A trans jack is MOST useful.  I rented one for my CJ swap.  I bought a Horror Fright jack for about ~$100.  I've used it a couple times.

 

One issue I ran into was the loaner pilot bearing/bushing puller.  The tips would not fit inside the old bushing.  I ended up pushing out one of the dowels that holds the gripping tip.  I then put tips inside the bushing and put the dowel back in puller.  The loaner slide hammer made quick work of getting the old one out.  (There are lots of videos on U-tube about using grease/bread/wet paper towels.  I tried one on my CJ and all I ended up with was wet paper towels jammed inside the bearing.  The bearing never budged.  After cleaning out the paper towels, that was when I learned about the puller not fitting inside the bushing.)

 

Good luck.

 

Post script:

 

To take the knob off the shifter, use a heat gun on the cap top.  This will soften the outer portion.  You can then pop the center cap out without scarring the outer portion.  The nut to remove the knob is under the cap.  To install, heat the outer portion to soften it and slide the cap in to place.

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I guess I lucked out.  I got an AX15 from a 90 XJ (int. slave).  I purchased off ebay an ext. slave bellhousing.  I installed this in my CJ.  I bought another one off craigslist for $300.  Seller said it came from a 98 XJ.  I installed this one in my MJ.  Both work well.  The MJ gets lots more miles since it my DD.  The CJ has been a WIP rebuild for the last two years, so it isn't getting many miles.  I found the one from the 90 shifts better than the one from the 98.

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