Hooligan OffRoad Hinge Support Install

[agamble]

A common problem with the XJ and MJ is that the factory door hinge welds tend to break free from their mount. The drivers side door on my MJ was suffering from this problem on both the upper and lower hinges. To get the door to unlatch you had slightly lift the door up to get the door up over the stricker.

 

 

 

While surfing the web for a solution, I came across this product from hooliganoffroad: https://www.hooliganoffroad.com/collections/xj/products/xj-door-hinge-support

A quick read of the product description and I had placed an order.

 

 

The box came complete with instructions and couple decal stickers that are guaranteed to increase horsepower output and offroad prowess when adhered to your jeep. The instructions are brief, literally 4 steps, but clear enough.

 

 

 

Installation requires removing the front fenders to gain access to the door hinges. I didn't take any pics of removing the fenders as this has been covered in several other threads on multiple forums.

With the fenders removed I started by cleaning off the foam sealant that the factory had placed over the welds. I flat head screw driver made quick work of it. It took about 5 minutes to get both door hinges cleared.

 

 

After the removing the foam sealant I did as the instructions require. The plastic plug that is located under the upper hinge on both sides needs to be removed. The same handy flat head used to remove the foam sealant was able to make quick work on the plastic plug. With the plug removed, place the bracket onto the body and trace the perimeter to see where the metal needs to be cleaned. The brackets only go on in one direction.

 

 

With the perimeter traced, with a sanding disc, I removed all the paint and primer to reveal bare metal. Make sure to get the outer perimeter and the hinges.

 

 

To keep the bracket in place, I used a mini C-clamp in the hole that is visible in body and bracket. Once secured, stitch weld the the outer perimeter of the bracket, making sure to leave a few inches in-between each weld. Then weld the entire mating surface of the hinge to the bracket. While welding I did the top of both hinges on the passenger side, then while allowing the metal to somewhat cool, I moved to the drivers side and repeated the same process. Then moved down the sides, and the bottoms of the hinges.

 

 

After things were cooled I applied two coats of Rust-O-leum paint and primer onto the bare/exposed metal to prevent rust from forming. And as a final step, I used seam sealer on the outer edge to seal out where water is likely run between the bracket and body.

 

 

 

Once done a couple tests of opening and closing the door found that it was no longer sagging when open and they feel much more solid than before on the truck.

 

 

[Pete M]

added to the master index  

[pitbull4x4]

I did them also and doors are so much better

[agamble]

I was hesitant at first. Now its a no brainer that if the hinges need repaired this is the way to go.

[jerardisflossin]

This is awesome! I am curious and somewhat new to welding but how thick is the panel we are welding too (bod of the truck)? 

 

I am concerned about burning through it.

[Wounded_Fighter]

I noticed I have the same gap on my hinges as pictured below.

Did this help with the inside gap at all? Does the hinges need to be realigned before install?

Did you weld the inside seam too?

My door seems to be propped out a little bit when closed, like there is a gap around the seam of the door/body.

 

On 4/22/2018 at 10:53 PM, agamble said:

 

[agamble]

On 7/16/2018 at 12:42 PM, Wounded_Fighter said:

I noticed I have the same gap on my hinges as pictured below.

Did this help with the inside gap at all? Does the hinges need to be realigned before install?

Did you weld the inside seam too?

My door seems to be propped out a little bit when closed, like there is a gap around the seam of the door/body.

 

 

 

- My door is propped out little bit as well when its closed, it is a result of the gap shown in picture of the hinges pulling away from the body.

- If you're wanting the door to sit flush the hinge support will not help close the gap, you will need to close the gap up before attaching the supports. The hinge support will prevent this from occurring, if it has not already, or prevent it from getting worse  or if repaired occurring again. In my case I didn't as the door being off by a bit didn't bother me and its not a show truck.

- When installing, if you're not closing the gap between the hinge and body there is no need to weld the inside seam. If you're leaving the gap or it has not already occurred you don't need to weld the inner seem. Its doable without removing the door. However, there is not a lot of room.