ftpiercecracker1 Posted April 14, 2018 Share Posted April 14, 2018 I ordered this universal transmitter and receiver . . . https://www.walmart.com/ip/DC-12V-Relay-433MHz-Wireless-RF-Remote-Control-Switch-Transmitter-Receiver/352956448 . . . . for a project but I am having some problems with it. I can't seem to get any outgoing voltage/signal. The relay clicks when I press the remote button, but all three outgoing contacts are dead. Here are some pictures to help show what's going on. The two points circled in red are on the underside of the PCB and are the only two points on the whole board the switch on/off 12vdc/0vdc. Testing for outgoing signal, black lead on batt (-), red lead on one of three potential outgoing 12vdc signal channels. Dead. Same as above, different signal channel. Also dead. Relay is clicking, I tried both buttons. No outgoing dcv at all. Testing incoming leads. Batt (+) and (-). Good. After talking with the seller they tell me I need to add a jumper wire as shown by the red line the picture above. Batt (+) to the middle outgoing terminal. I think this is fishy. Again the under side of the PCB. This solder trace, I believe, is supposed to be that "jumper wire" I suppose the real question is why can the relay be clicking, but not connecting with the output terminals.? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minuit Posted April 14, 2018 Share Posted April 14, 2018 If I'm understanding this correctly: Relay is activating, but 12V is not flowing from the input through the relay contacts? If the relay is clicking when you push the buttons, the coil is being activated - so that should rule out the transmitter and receiver as well as everything in between the receiver and relay coil. You should have continuity between NC and COM when the relay isn't activated, and between NO and COM when it is. Can you post a close-up pic of the bottom of the PCB? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ftpiercecracker1 Posted April 14, 2018 Author Share Posted April 14, 2018 Holy chit your fast. Will do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ftpiercecracker1 Posted April 14, 2018 Author Share Posted April 14, 2018 Holy chit your fast. Will do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minuit Posted April 14, 2018 Share Posted April 14, 2018 Also, forgot to mention - you should have 12V at one of the three contacts at all times (either NO or common, NC would defeat the purpose of even having the relay). Follow the PCB traces from the 12V input to the relay. Don't rule out that thing being dead right out of the box. Pretty common with Chinese electronics like that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeep Driver Posted April 14, 2018 Share Posted April 14, 2018 Check continuity between the neg and switched contacts. May be that your relay only switches the neg side. IOWs, current does not flow through the unit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minuit Posted April 14, 2018 Share Posted April 14, 2018 If you do the continuity test I talked about in my first post and it checks out, then you should be able to make it work with the jumper wire the seller told you about. Seems like the input (it can be either 12V or ground, whatever you want to apply to your circuit) isn't making it to the COM terminal of the relay. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ftpiercecracker1 Posted April 14, 2018 Author Share Posted April 14, 2018 A development! I tested the two points designated by red arrows for continuity with the middle contact. There is continuity on both circuits. When hitting either button, continuity is switched between the two outside contacts. There is no continuity from COM to Batt (+) contact. What concerns me now is the description on the original product ad. It describes this device as having three separate channels of control. I assumed this to mean it would have three separate channels that are capable of being turned on/off completely independent of one another. However, this does not seem to be even close to how it actually functions. It seems that the two channels are connected and dependent on the others position. In other words if one channel is off the other channel is on and vice a versa. At the very least I need two channels that are capable of turning on and off completely independent of one another. When I read the ad, it seemed as though you could program the remote and receiver to except several different initiation codes. Ex. The controller has an "A" and "B" button. I was under the impression that I could program a signal like . . "Rapidly press A button twice to trigger one specific contact" "Press A button once to trigger a second contact" "Press A button to turn on, then press B button to turn off" etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minuit Posted April 14, 2018 Share Posted April 14, 2018 The relay is working correctly. By "3 channels of output" they literally just mean there is 3 contacts on the load side of the relay. It's nothing fancy, and kind of a POS module by the looks of it. That's a single relay that can only control one thing at a time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ftpiercecracker1 Posted April 14, 2018 Author Share Posted April 14, 2018 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ftpiercecracker1 Posted April 14, 2018 Author Share Posted April 14, 2018 Wireless Remote Control Switch DC12V 10A 433MHz Transmitter with Receiver Features: 100% new and high quality Three output working modes for choosing Safe and flexible for operation and install Widely use in house, mall, electromobile, cars, motorcycle anti-theft alarm system or other control systems Specified as preferred components in remote control garage, roller curtain, door locks, remote sensing, telemetry, industrial control and wireless security alarm industry Specifications: Operating voltage: DC 12V Operating Current: ? 6mA Operating frequency: 433MHz Operating temperature: -40 to + 80 Receiver sensitivity: ?-105dbm Output voltage: DC Output Current: ? 10A Code: Learning code. (Jog/ Non-Locked, Inter-lock/ locked, Auto-lock / Auto-Locked) Output working way: Jog /Non-locked: Press a button is working/ on and loosen your finger on the same button is stop/ off. (A channel change needs a remote control button) Auto-lock: Press one button for one time is working/ on and press the same button is stop/ off. (A channel change needs a remote control button) Inter-lock / locked: Press a button is working/ on and press another button is stop/ off. (A channel change needs 2 remote control buttons) Learning and removing method: 1. Learning method: Press the learning code for 3 seconds. The indicator will be off, and then loosen your finger, press any button of the remote control to transmit signal, the indicator flash 3 times and then normally on which means you learn it successfully. 2. Remove/clean method: Press the learning button about 8 seconds, the indicator will be from being off to on all the time, it means the information that you keep have been removed successfully. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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