Blaine.D Posted January 28, 2018 Share Posted January 28, 2018 Started to do a brake job on the front Dana 30 in my 1988 Comanche. Oil leak on passenger side. Took axle a part to replace the seal next to the CAD. Any advice on installing the new seal? Bought both seals figured to replace both since I am in this deep into the axle. Also probably need to do control arm bushings. Can I do these with a large vise or C- clamps or is this a job for a shop press? Also if I take the control arms out I thought about welding a plate to the bottom to box in the control arms. Would this be worth doing if I had the bushings out? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted January 28, 2018 Share Posted January 28, 2018 Why not swap in some WJ uppers and lowers? They are the same length, have beefier bushings, and are already boxed in. But even if you do, you will still have to replace the UCA axle-end bushings. There are many ways to do this, and none are easy. When I did mine, I used my homemade press. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kickin’Chicken Posted January 29, 2018 Share Posted January 29, 2018 cool home made tool! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blaine.D Posted January 29, 2018 Author Share Posted January 29, 2018 Thank you, HOrnbrod. Being new I did not realize WJ had the same length control arms. Axle is now out on jack stands waiting on paint to dry. Cleaned it then POR-15 so It will be several hours to dry. Interesting on the tool. I had a similar Idea went to lowes this morning bought a piece of 1/2 threaded rod and was gonna use a large socket (where you have pipe) to pull the seal in place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minuit Posted January 29, 2018 Share Posted January 29, 2018 You will want something to prevent the control arm bushing mounts on the axle from folding in when you press the bushings. When I did it I discovered that a 4.0 main bearing cap fits perfectly in the control arm mount, but if for some reason you don't have that a half circle shaped section of nice thick pipe ought to do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DesertRat1991 Posted January 29, 2018 Share Posted January 29, 2018 Replacing the inner axle tube seals isn't very difficult. To remove the seal, I cupped a 36mm socket over the end of a long broomstick and used the flat (back side) of the socket to knock the seal out. To drive them in, use the same 36mm, this time on the end of 3ft worth of ratchet extensions. The front (open side) of the 36mm socket seats perfectly in the indentation on the front side of the seal so it works really well for tapping them into place. My advice to anyone servicing their axles would be to add these PDFs to your document library: http://drivetrain.estoreseller.com/DanaCatalogs/x510-9.pdf http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/PDFs/Dana_light_axle_service_manual.pdf I had a hard time sorting through the internet chatter to find the right seal for my axle -- the first PDF solved that problem. It's the Dana Spicer parts catalog which contains part numbers and diagrams for all Jeep axles 1978 - 1998. The good stuff starts on page 281 with the Dana 30 non-cad axle. Dana 30 CAD is on page 309. All the rear axles are in there too. For future reference, Spicer 46470 fit perfectly in the '91 non-cad Dana 30 axle. The second PDF is useful because it has Spicer's recommended torque specs for various things. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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