A/C flush?

[schardein]

So I plan to replace most all of the A/C system in my Comanche (and Cherokee, and Silverado).  That includes the lines, compressor, condenser, receiver dryer, everything but the evaporator.

 

A/C work is new to me, and I've down a lot of research, including reading stuff in this forum.

 

It makes sense to me to flush the only part I am retaining.  I am going to buy one of those kits that hooks up to shop air.  

 

My question is the flush itself.  I've seen varying prices.  Does anyone know if one is better than the other?  Can I just use lacquer thinner?  I saw that mentioned in another thread.

 

Thanks for any advice.  My entire life, I've never personally owned a vehicle with working AC.  Looking forward to having three this summer.

[Tex06]

I would think lacquer thinner would work. Has the system been open to the environment?

 

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[Jeep Driver]

Denatured alcohol. 

 

Evacuate with compressed air.

 

Rinse, repeat. 

[HOrnbrod]

You may get away using denatured alcohol but it leaves a residue and isn't the best for an A/C system flush. Acetone is a better choice but there are specialized solvents made exclusively for flushing A/C systems available in any of the chain auto parts stores that evap quickly and leave zero residue. And of course, it costs more too. 

[Jeep Driver]

Being a finish man for the last 32+ years.............I've used every commonly found solvent there is at different times for different reasons. 

 

The only two solvents that are not considered 'HOT', that are readily available to him, are going to be mineral spirits and alcohol. 

 

Acetone, ethyl acetate, is found in nail polish remover, why? it removes paint. 

 

Alcohol, is found in window cleaner, deicer, leaves no residue, is not harmful to most painted surfaces, is water soluble and can be washed away with water. 

 

 

When I cleaned mine, since I was going from mineral to PAG, I wanted to get the system as clean as possible. I first washed with mineral spirits then chased with alcohol to remove the spirits. 

 

 

The only way the OP is going to chase out whatever solvent he uses out of the evap is with the use of compressed air. Since I seriously doubt he has a $4000 dryer behind his $300 compressor, he's going to be introducing atmosphere  (humidity/condensation/water) into the evap, as I said, alcohol is water soluble/compatible.

 

Being that he is going to use compressed air, that he is leaving the evap in the truck, he is going to be atomizing the solvent. I don't how careful you are, you are going to be getting solvent all over the general area of the evap ports. Any other solvent, other than the two I mentioned, are going to eat the painted surfaces immediately. Even if you are able to wash it down (soap and water), the solvent will absorb into the paint and relieve it at the metal surface. 

 

I'm not an AC expert, I just know what to expect from whatever solvent he's going to use. 

 

If it were me, since the only part he's retaining is the evap, I'd just blow it out with air and be done with it. It's not as dirty as you might think anyway. 

 

 

I'm not writing a dissertation paper when I give a quick answer here, but there is always a reason for my opinion.