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Alinement problems


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So I got my second alinement in 6 months today and my truck still pulls decently to the right. I need to rotate my tires because my passenger side tire is worn very unevenly due to me needing an alinement for 2 years and neglecting to get one lol. I just feel like after going to 2 different reputable shops it should be better. I have iron rock off-road otk steering. No death wobble and my trucks not a $#!& box. Ya I need to rotate my tires but do these numbers look right to y'all?

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It was within spec before, and the new alignment put it out of spec.

 

Camber set-to is zero, with a range of +1/2 to -3/4 allowed. Caster set-to is 6 degrees, with 5 to 9 allowed. In general, more caster is better for resisting death wobble, as long as you don't exceed the front driveshaft u-joint operating angles. So the right side camber went from -.67 (in-spec) to -.78 (out-of-spec). In addition, the difference in camber from left to right increased. Camber isn't adjustable, and from the numbers the tech didn't touch the caster, so all he really did was adjust toe-in.

 

So how did he take the camber (which, again, is not adjustable) from in-spec to out-of-spec?

 

And how did he change the rear axle readings? Did he even touch the rear axle? How could he possibly have changed the toe-in for the REAR axle?

 

The numbers don't make sense.

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i work as a alignment tech and have for over a year..

 

Eagle is right the rear can't be adjusted, short of adjusting the thrust angle. you would have to shift the rear axle to do that and i don't know a shop that does that. looking at your sheet the thrust angle is fine.... better then my truck even.....

 

your pull is most likely from 1) the difference between left and right camber the sheet shows .5 difference. in my shop we will not let more then .3 out the door. 2) if the tires are worn on the edges that can pull

 

i am not sure about this last bit... but

 

i know for some trucks you can get adjustable ball joints or off set ball joints. IF you can fine  them i would get the off set for the right side and get one that's +.5 

 

not sure if it helps but it's what i have learned over the last year

 

Van

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your pull is most likely from 1) the difference between left and right camber the sheet shows .5 difference. in my shop we will not let more then .3 out the door. 2) if the tires are worn on the edges that can pull

 

Before spending money on offset ball joints, try just rotating the tires, and see if that makes a difference.

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Ya thanks guys, my plan is to rotate the tires cus I really need to and if that doesn't work maybe shorten my left lower control arm a tiny bit and see if that effects the pull

 

You mean "adjust the caster." Don't go cutting anything. Caster is adjusted on the MJ by adding or removing shims in the pocket where the back end of the lower control arms attach to the chassis. If there are no shims to remove on the left, you can add a shim or two on the right.

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Ya thanks guys, my plan is to rotate the tires cus I really need to and if that doesn't work maybe shorten my left lower control arm a tiny bit and see if that effects the pull

You mean "adjust the caster." Don't go cutting anything. Caster is adjusted on the MJ by adding or removing shims in the pocket where the back end of the lower control arms attach to the chassis. If there are no shims to remove on the left, you can add a shim or two on the right.

I have adjustable lowers. Having those is it not ok to adjust caster by changing the length?
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I have adjustable lowers. Having those is it not ok to adjust caster by changing the length?

 

Of course, That's why adjustable lowers are adjustable. Didn't realize you had them.

hahah I assumed you didn't know but didn't wanna go changing $#!& if it was wrong cus most the time I'm just winging it hahaha
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