Knucklehead97 Posted January 28, 2017 Share Posted January 28, 2017 So upon bleeding my brakes after installing new hubs, calipers, and lines. Ends up my MC is spraying fluid from between it and the BB. So time for that WJ booster I bought. I have the booster/MC from a 2001 WJ, with the flex lines and fittings. I've read almost all the write-ups but still have a couple questions. 1, can I pull a automatic pedal assembly and brake switch from a newer XJ so that I do not have to modify the booster arm? 2, being that it is a WJ booster, that means I DON'T need to space it from the firewall. Correct? The one I got doesn't have a spacer even though I pulled it myself. 3, proportioning valve. I can't use the MJ one without upgrading the internals, correct? 4, rear height sensing valve. Do I need to bypass this before I do this mod or can I run with it the way it is? Very excited to do this mod as it has been on the backburner for a year now. Just need it to go as quickly as possible because I NEED my Jeep back on the road soon. I leave for Tennessee Tuesday morning and won't be back till Saturday morning. Obviously not driving the Jeep there. But would like to have the done as soon as I get back. I know these questions have been answered somewhere... just couldn't find it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knucklehead97 Posted January 28, 2017 Author Share Posted January 28, 2017 One more question. Will I HAVE to cut the WJ lines and reflare them or is there an adapter I can buy that will screw into the valve and the WJ lines will thread into? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crash Posted January 29, 2017 Share Posted January 29, 2017 Carquest sells adapter lines. My plan is to use those and unions to connect to factory lines. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted January 29, 2017 Share Posted January 29, 2017 1. Yes 2. No spacer. Cut or bend firewall lip a bit. 3. Not sure on this. I eliminate that valve and the brake line to the height sensing valve and use an adjustable prop valve to the rear. I found the factory prop valve had way smaller passages in it for the front brakes than an XJ one. Eliminated it on the first one I did and had way improved braking. The install will be way cleaner if you buy a double flare tool and do the ends yourself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knucklehead97 Posted January 29, 2017 Author Share Posted January 29, 2017 1. Yes 2. No spacer. Cut or bend firewall lip a bit. 3. Not sure on this. I eliminate that valve and the brake line to the height sensing valve and use an adjustable prop valve to the rear. I found the factory prop valve had way smaller passages in it for the front brakes than an XJ one. Eliminated it on the first one I did and had way improved braking. The install will be way cleaner if you buy a double flare tool and do the ends yourself. ended up winging it myself last night and am just drilling and grinding the current sensor hole to work. From what I read this morning I can use the MJ valve but I will be doing the same thing as you did later on. And I also decided to try my hand at flaring the ends and all that. It was hard enough finding new fittings I couldn't imagine finding adapters... the auto parts store guys around here are dimwit teenagers who don't know anything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knucklehead97 Posted January 29, 2017 Author Share Posted January 29, 2017 1. Yes 2. No spacer. Cut or bend firewall lip a bit. 3. Not sure on this. I eliminate that valve and the brake line to the height sensing valve and use an adjustable prop valve to the rear. I found the factory prop valve had way smaller passages in it for the front brakes than an XJ one. Eliminated it on the first one I did and had way improved braking. The install will be way cleaner if you buy a double flare tool and do the ends yourself. how did you eliminate the factory valve and which adjustable one are you running? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted January 29, 2017 Share Posted January 29, 2017 1. Yes 2. No spacer. Cut or bend firewall lip a bit. 3. Not sure on this. I eliminate that valve and the brake line to the height sensing valve and use an adjustable prop valve to the rear. I found the factory prop valve had way smaller passages in it for the front brakes than an XJ one. Eliminated it on the first one I did and had way improved braking. The install will be way cleaner if you buy a double flare tool and do the ends yourself. how did you eliminate the factory valve and which adjustable one are you running? Remove the load sensing valve and it's metal line all the way to the front. Plug the T that you disconnected the line from in the rear. Remove prop valve. Take the output for the fronts and install a T so you can add both front brake lines to it. Take the rear line and install each end of it into the adjustable prop valve. Wilwood adjustable about $39 at Summit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1989 Eliminator Posted January 31, 2017 Share Posted January 31, 2017 1, can I pull a automatic pedal assembly and brake switch from a newer XJ so that I do not have to modify the booster arm? Yes you can.2, being that it is a WJ booster, that means I DON'T need to space it from the firewall. Correct? The one I got doesn't have a spacer even though I pulled it myself. Correct3, proportioning valve. I can't use the MJ one without upgrading the internals, correct? You CAN use the MJ proportioning valve4, rear height sensing valve. Do I need to bypass this before I do this mod or can I run with it the way it is? You do not Click on the link in my signature about the WJ booster upgrade Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted January 31, 2017 Share Posted January 31, 2017 1, can I pull a automatic pedal assembly and brake switch from a newer XJ so that I do not have to modify the booster arm? Yes you can. 2, being that it is a WJ booster, that means I DON'T need to space it from the firewall. Correct? The one I got doesn't have a spacer even though I pulled it myself. Correct 3, proportioning valve. I can't use the MJ one without upgrading the internals, correct? You CAN use the MJ proportioning valve 4, rear height sensing valve. Do I need to bypass this before I do this mod or can I run with it the way it is? You do not Click on the link in my signature about the WJ booster upgrade That is an awesome write-up. I can't believe I've not seen it before. For sure it will be bookmarked. Would you mind if I put a link to it on my website? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1989 Eliminator Posted January 31, 2017 Share Posted January 31, 2017 Go for it @cruiser54! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted January 31, 2017 Share Posted January 31, 2017 Here ya go http://cruiser54.com/?page_id=233 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knucklehead97 Posted February 1, 2017 Author Share Posted February 1, 2017 1, can I pull a automatic pedal assembly and brake switch from a newer XJ so that I do not have to modify the booster arm? Yes you can. 2, being that it is a WJ booster, that means I DON'T need to space it from the firewall. Correct? The one I got doesn't have a spacer even though I pulled it myself. Correct 3, proportioning valve. I can't use the MJ one without upgrading the internals, correct? You CAN use the MJ proportioning valve 4, rear height sensing valve. Do I need to bypass this before I do this mod or can I run with it the way it is? You do not Click on the link in my signature about the WJ booster upgrade that's the main write-up I used, very nice! All that is left is running the lines. But the crappy autozone rental flare tool was messed up and screwed up all my flares so I may have to get another set of WJ lines. Or I will just but some bubble flared lines and add my double flares and bend and tada. Either way really hate auto stores rental tools. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1989 Eliminator Posted February 1, 2017 Share Posted February 1, 2017 Yeah I went about it by buying bubble flare lines then double flaring on the other end. Gotta be real careful bending the lines. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knucklehead97 Posted February 7, 2017 Author Share Posted February 7, 2017 Well after 3 rental tools all of them failed to give me good flares. Not sure if it was the tool, or me. Every one of the tools had something wrong with it though. One had a bent stem on the 3/16" adapter, the threads on the clamp were stripped on another, and the last ones pintle was messed up on the tip and wouldn't press it into a 45 degree flare. Tomorrow I will be stopping by a local mechanic shop and seeing if they will double flare the 2 lines for me. If I see myself needed to flare more often I'll drop the cash on a fancy hydraulic tool... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted February 8, 2017 Share Posted February 8, 2017 Well after 3 rental tools all of them failed to give me good flares. Not sure if it was the tool, or me. Every one of the tools had something wrong with it though. One had a bent stem on the 3/16" adapter, the threads on the clamp were stripped on another, and the last ones pintle was messed up on the tip and wouldn't press it into a 45 degree flare. Tomorrow I will be stopping by a local mechanic shop and seeing if they will double flare the 2 lines for me. If I see myself needed to flare more often I'll drop the cash on a fancy hydraulic tool... Hydraulic? why? What? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knucklehead97 Posted February 8, 2017 Author Share Posted February 8, 2017 Well after 3 rental tools all of them failed to give me good flares. Not sure if it was the tool, or me. Every one of the tools had something wrong with it though. One had a bent stem on the 3/16" adapter, the threads on the clamp were stripped on another, and the last ones pintle was messed up on the tip and wouldn't press it into a 45 degree flare. Tomorrow I will be stopping by a local mechanic shop and seeing if they will double flare the 2 lines for me. If I see myself needed to flare more often I'll drop the cash on a fancy hydraulic tool... Hydraulic? why? What? everywhere I've read on the internet says that the hydraulic ones are the way to go if you have the cash (300$) perfect flares each time apparently. I doubt I ever will need the tool often enough to justify that, but it would be nice to one day have. Just haven't liked my experience with the manual ones so far haha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted February 8, 2017 Share Posted February 8, 2017 Well after 3 rental tools all of them failed to give me good flares. Not sure if it was the tool, or me. Every one of the tools had something wrong with it though. One had a bent stem on the 3/16" adapter, the threads on the clamp were stripped on another, and the last ones pintle was messed up on the tip and wouldn't press it into a 45 degree flare. Tomorrow I will be stopping by a local mechanic shop and seeing if they will double flare the 2 lines for me. If I see myself needed to flare more often I'll drop the cash on a fancy hydraulic tool...Hydraulic? why? What?everywhere I've read on the internet says that the hydraulic ones are the way to go if you have the cash (300$) perfect flares each time apparently. I doubt I ever will need the tool often enough to justify that, but it would be nice to one day have. Just haven't liked my experience with the manual ones so far haha Totally unnecessary. A GOOD regular one is all I've used for years/ But, only I have used it. Even the cheapie Hobo Freight one works great for the average guy. Keep in mind the ones you used had likely been used by many folks who could bend a digging bar is a sand pile or messed up an anvil with a rubber mallet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted February 8, 2017 Share Posted February 8, 2017 THIS is a good kit Knuck for not much money. Just practice first with some scrap 3/16" brake line until you learn the technique well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knucklehead97 Posted February 8, 2017 Author Share Posted February 8, 2017 THIS is a good kit Knuck for not much money. Just practice first with some scrap 3/16" brake line until you learn the technique well. I ended up ordering this kit. Had a mechanic do the lines for me and apparently he didn't know what a double flare was because he regular flared it and then told me I would have to go somewhere else after I said that was the wrong type of flare. Sadly have to wait EVEN LONGER to get this project done. Harbor freights tool just looked too cheap to justify spending 22$ on. Plus I needed something to put me over 50$ on Amazon so I ordered an OBD2 software key and cord for my laptop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark 39 Posted February 9, 2017 Share Posted February 9, 2017 Remember to lube the end of tubing with brake fluid and threads of flaring tool with light oil . Seems to help me make better flares. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knucklehead97 Posted February 14, 2017 Author Share Posted February 14, 2017 My flare kit came in today and I've been messing with it. What did I get on the first try? A PERFECT flare. Those autozone rentals just can't be trusted!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted February 15, 2017 Share Posted February 15, 2017 My flare kit came in today and I've been messing with it. What did I get on the first try? A PERFECT flare. Those autozone rentals just can't be trusted!!! why am I not surprised that you got a perfect one the first time? Thanks for driving that point home. Those tools have been rented by guys that could mess up an anvil with a rubber mallet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knucklehead97 Posted February 15, 2017 Author Share Posted February 15, 2017 My flare kit came in today and I've been messing with it. What did I get on the first try? A PERFECT flare. Those autozone rentals just can't be trusted!!! why am I not surprised that you got a perfect one the first time? Thanks for driving that point home. Those tools have been rented by guys that could mess up an anvil with a rubber mallet. the lines were a pain to get twisted and bent into place but they're in there and not leaking! They aren't pretty but they work. Gotta get a line bender that can do tighter bends. Everything is hooked up and the pedal is tight. I've been through one round of bleeding but have to get another bottle of fluid before I bleed the bypass valve and do the last round of regular bleeding. I ran a whole bottle through the dry master cylinder by sticking the distribution block ends of the lines into 1/4" clear hose and sticking the other ends of the hose in a bottle of fluid. I used 2 pairs of pliers to crimp the clear lines each time my brother pressed the pedal. Kind of like closing the bleeder valve for regular caliper bleeding. Got most of the bubbles out that way and the rest should come out with the extensive amount of fluid I'm running through the whole system. It'll all be clean fluid by the time I'm done :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted February 15, 2017 Share Posted February 15, 2017 Did you get the lines with the booster/master? They're flexible..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted February 15, 2017 Share Posted February 15, 2017 My flare kit came in today and I've been messing with it. What did I get on the first try? A PERFECT flare. Those autozone rentals just can't be trusted!!! why am I not surprised that you got a perfect one the first time? Thanks for driving that point home. Those tools have been rented by guys that could mess up an anvil with a rubber mallet. You forgot the guys who could bend a digging bar in a sand pile. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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