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Possible Syncro Problem


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Did you use Mopar parts when you replaced the master/slave?

 

I get all my parts from Napa, I can't afford dealership parts. 

 

 

 

Replacement parts are hit and miss these days with most of them being made outside our country.

 

This^^^

Chinese Replacement Auto Parts = CRAP

Sorry

 

Sorry nothing. That's the truth right there. 

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Maybe nurse it along till you can find a parts Jeep (XJ) with an external AX-15, use what you need, maybe sell the rest, get your $$ back.

FWIW, I've bought at least 3 whole wrecked XJs with AX15s, two were external slave, paid $300 or less for each, look around, they out there.

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Wow, love the acronym, spot on!

 

Can't really nurse it along, it's loosing half the reservoir with 20 min of driving. I have to fill it every time I stop. I borrowed a friends old Nissan truck (as old as mine) for the moment. My Cherokee needs and alternator and a battery. Tough times... My son, who is sick of hearing about my truck woes, is trying to convince me to get a second car that is newer with a loan. He even offered to put a down payment on it for me. He's actually sweet to his dear old mom. I have a line on a friends 2006 Corolla with only 73K on it for $4k. It's a good deal. But I will NEVER give up my truck! I am happy to sell my Cherokee though, it's a grand cherokee and I actually hate all the "luxury" crap on it, mostly because most of that stuff doesn't work any more, lol! I'll be dropping the tranny by myself this time, my son will be away with the military for extra training to make staff sargent. He's a crew chief and a jet engine mechanic in the Air Force. I'm going to get one of those tranny floor jack adaptors and see how that goes. And I will get a Mopar slave cylinder. I'm thinking of starting a blog called "The Wrenching Wench"  :rotf:

 

Oh and I think the bearings went on my alternator, or something next to it, is chirping like a $%#@&%$ 

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Wow, love the acronym, spot on!

 

I'm going to get one of those tranny floor jack adaptors and see how that goes.

 

Oh and I think the bearings went on my alternator, or something next to it, is chirping like a $%#@&%$ 

 

Re: adapter, one of these?  http://www.harborfreight.com/800-lb-low-lift-transmission-jack-69685.html I Couldn't find the actual adapter for the floor jack, but it is something like this. I believe there has been discussion on how well it works and the consensus seems that it doesn't work very well on a floor jack, wobbles around a lot.

 

This is what I use  http://www.harborfreight.com/450-lb-low-lift-transmission-jack-61232.html It works ok, but if you remove your tranny with TC still attached, it can be a little tricky, in my experience, the ratchet strap on the lift is nearly useless, I cinch mine down with a separate ratchet strap around the tranny and lift cradle.

 

FWIW, that little tranny jack is one of the best tool I've ever bought. As far as the ratchet strap used on the jack, I cut the side off that has the ratchet

kept the side with the strap because it makes a good leash to drag it around the shop.

 

And for the mouse: http://comancheclub.com/topic/52595-mouse/I always look at the front of the HB for separation on the front, but most commonly if you look REAL GOOD down behind the HB you can see where it separated and the metal part or possibly just the rubber part has "walked" back and is hitting the TC.

 

And I believe Don (Hornbrod) posted this up first.  http://www.ebay.com/itm/281679237322?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

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Get a $5 stethoscope at Hobo Freight and track down the chirp.

 

Hi Cruiser54, I actually have one of those already. I was checking things from above and I believe it's the alternator, which bummer, is only maybe 5 years old. I was dressed to nice at the time to crawl under and use the stethoscope on the harmonic balancer, am doing that on Sunday. I did get the alternator from Napa so they will replace it for free. If only they would throw in the labor to change it out too...... a girl can dream.... though my dreams are usually nightmares of a piston flying out of the block! 

 

I didn't have any noise before I changed the power steering pump, but maybe the release of pressure from removing the belt let an already worn barring in the alt shift. It's actually really loud, so it's more like a screeching rat than a mouse!

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Re: adapter, one of these?  http://www.harborfreight.com/800-lb-low-lift-transmission-jack-69685.html I Couldn't find the actual adapter for the floor jack, but it is something like this. I believe there has been discussion on how well it works and the consensus seems that it doesn't work very well on a floor jack, wobbles around a lot.

 

 

 

This is what I was looking at https://jet.com/product/detail/af29967f97a14e4786a7a67472bc1012?jcmp=pla:ggl:a_nj_dur_gen_vehicles_parts_a2_b2:vehicles_parts_vehicle_parts_accessories_motor_vehicle_parts_a2_top:na:PLA_627454470_31308599722_aud-155003204480:pla-161714612700:na:na:na:2&code=PLA15

 

I like the scissor one you linked, it seems better. Seems like the scissor would lift and drop would be smoother than a hydraulic one. I'm 125 lbs, so I need all the smoothness/help I can get! I will check the things you mentioned about the harmonic balancer too. I had a problem with a harmonic balancer on a 72 cutlass years ago. So I'm semi familiar with them. Thanks for the links! :)

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Harmonic balancer is a visual inspection, no go with a stethoscope (engine running), might be kind of interesting though...

Take a good bright light, shine up from below, or down from above, look between HB and timing cover. Actually if the HB is bad it should be apparent that its separating.

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Harmonic balancer is a visual inspection, no go with a stethoscope (engine running), might be kind of interesting though...

Take a good bright light, shine up from below, or down from above, look between HB and timing cover. Actually if the HB is bad it should be apparent that its separating.

How did you know I did that?

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  • 4 weeks later...

Hey guys, does anyone know where I can find Mopar parts for my 88 Comanche? The local dealership, and Mopar.com say they don't manufacture slave cylinders anymore for my year, specifically not for peugeot transmissions. :(  Is Napa is the next best shot or should I try my local racing shop, Summit Racing Equipment? I really don't want to drop my transmission for a third time because I used after market parts, again. Let me know your thoughts. 

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This has been super helpful. My 91 as a almost identical issue. I'm going to start with new fluids and sycromesh.  

Good luck! You might be able to find the molybdenum additive at your local gun shop. Get one of those pumps that screws onto the top of the bottle. You have to keep twisting the bottle upside down and right side up while your pumping it in. The additive is heavy and wants to sink to the bottom of the bottle rather quickly. Works like a charm.

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Hey guys, does anyone know where I can find Mopar parts for my 88 Comanche? The local dealership, and Mopar.com say they don't manufacture slave cylinders anymore for my year, specifically not for peugeot transmissions.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CLUTCH-SLAVE-CYLINDER-87-92-JEEP-CHEROKEE-WRANGLER-COMANCHE-WAGONEER-04728737-/182483447129?hash=item2a7cdc6d59:g:TCYAAOSwsW9YwcPD&vxp=mtr

 

s-l1600.jpg

 

Offer him $100 or so.....

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http://www.ebay.com/itm/CLUTCH-SLAVE-CYLINDER-87-92-JEEP-CHEROKEE-WRANGLER-COMANCHE-WAGONEER-04728737-/182483447129?hash=item2a7cdc6d59:g:TCYAAOSwsW9YwcPD&vxp=mtr
 

 

Offer him $100 or so.....

 

Cool, thank you! Summit Racing has one from LuK, $97. Have you ever used their parts, do you have an opinion on them? After typing that I asked myself why would I use LuK if I can get a mopar part....?

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HornbroD, the one on ebay was manufactured in 97, so it's 20 yrs old. Is there a chance there are any seals that might be old and dried up, or the plastic parts might be brittle?

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That's a good question. I don't know it's factory shelf life but would prefer it over any of the aftermarket junk and would have no qualms buying it since it's never tasted fluid. I purchased a NOS master cylinder older than that (1993) and it's been on my truck for over five years now with zero problems.

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IF a new warrantied part was available, they would only warranty if you could PROVE that you replaced the master cyl and line along with the slave.

On another note, whats the age and condition of the master cyl?

Do you know about the horror stories of leakage onto the fuse box from a failed slave cyl?

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IF a new warrantied part was available, they would only warranty if you could PROVE that you replaced the master cyl and line along with the slave.

On another note, whats the age and condition of the master cyl?

Do you know about the horror stories of leakage onto the fuse box from a failed slave cyl?

In my diagnosis process, I replaced the master cylinder and the line from the master to the slave in the last couple of months. I discovered the leak had become visible and was dripping out the bell housing. So replacing the slave is the next and last thing to change. My fuse box had been broken off the firewall by the previous owner so it's just kind of tied up under the dash. I can imagine what a horror story that scenario would be though. I'm wrestling with whether to get a 20 yrr old, but new in the box mopar slave cylinder or a newly manufactured LuK (German made) one from my racing shop... 

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