So, looks like I'm going fullwidths.

[DirtyComanche]

Yeah, without ever even getting it to drive, I've decided that I will sell my 8.8 and HP30/parts, in favour of a HP D44 front with 1-ton brakes, that's setup for radius arms already, 4.56 gears, and perfectly clean. Now I've got to find another rear...

 

 

 

Maybe. Maybe.

 

 

We'll see.

[Pete M]

and the snowball keeps rolling...

[pingpong]

I have seen you are coming to the dark side :twisted: Let it draw you in, and become one with you future.

 

 

 

Seriously You need to decide what the maz size tire you are going to run on your rig. Since the front is all ready setup, With 4.56 find you an isuzu 12 bolt. same strength as a 60 and all ready has disc brakes. all it needs is a lil trussing around the tubes to the pumpkin.

 

 

don't forget to include rims and tires into your build. If it wasn't for that simple fact I would all ready be rididng on 1ton gear.

[pingpong]

well It looks like I will be getting a set of H1 bead locks :D Now it is time to get the project truly rolling. All I need now is some 3/4 ton chevy flatops and hi-steer :shock: slowly but surely it will be built. :twisted: Follow me to the path of the dark side :twisted:

[DirtyComanche]

The allure of this axle is that the 1-ton brakes will still allow a 15" rim to clear. I figure it is also 'upgradable' in that if I blow shafts I can go chromo without worrying too much about the R&P, and if I blow knuckles I can always drop coin on better ones. It's an 8-lug axle though, which isn't going to match much other than D60/70s and 14Bs, which I can get any of for cheap, but I'd have to drop coin on regearing them.

 

 

But, I'm still not sure, it makes way more sense to go with a D60 front right from the get-go. Even though I don't intend to move up from 35s for a while. The biggest I'd probably ever go is a 37, which is where I'd say is about the limit for the stock D44 knuckles.

 

 

It really just comes down to that I feel 35s and a D30 are kinda iffy, and that I wouldn't mind some more width. I probably should just not though. That and while the D44 is completely rebuilt and clean, it is open, althoguh I guess I could jsut weld it.

 

 

 

All said and done I should probably just make this thing roll first. Then look for something else to stick under the front and rear. We'll see if he gets more desperate to sell it or anything.

[pingpong]

Depending on the price I say get it. I will buy the outer spindles from you if they are 8 lug, or trade you the outer spindels and knuckles from my 5 on 5.5 D44, as I need to go to 8 x6.5.

 

My D30 is holding up fine to some abusive wheeling on 35's. BY no means do I take it easy on them. Basically your choice is to either keep your rig in aperpetual state of build or build in stages. Keep in mind that It is cheaper to do it once, but I prefer to minimize my rigs downtime and keep wheeling.

 

D44's can take up to 38's with alloys, and proper driving style, which means more gearing, and less throttle. The weak point on them is the ball joint.

 

 

On my d60 my plans are to go with Yukon 35 spliine shafts one I break my stock set of 31 splines. I plan on using a spool cause it is a dedicated trail rig so street manners are not really a concern for me.

 

D70 parts are about double of what a D60 is just keep that in mind. Also the prevailing theroy out there is a 38 is the smallest tire to run on the D60/14b/d70 cause of lack of clearance under the pumpkin

 

 

Patrick