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I bought an 88 Comanche a while back and am wanting to know some things. It has a 4.0 inline swap in it. what year I have no idea the guy said it might've been a 89. But it has a B/A10 tranny witch ive hear is not the greatest. What year and other parts will I need for the ax15 swap to bolt on. thank you!

 

 

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I bought an 88 Comanche a while back and am wanting to know some things. It has a 4.0 inline swap in it. what year I have no idea the guy said it might've been a 89. But it has a B/A10 tranny witch ive hear is not the greatest. What year and other parts will I need for the ax15 swap to bolt on. thank you!

 

Look for a 94+ AX15.  This will have the external slave cylinder.  The 89 to 93 are internal slaves.

 

You will also need a matching tcase with 23 spline input shafts.  The tcase from the BA10 has 21 splines.  Unless you rebuild the old, you will need a 23 spline.  Any tcase behind an AX15 will have 23 splines.

 

If you go external, you will need a new clutch master and slave cylinder.

 

While you are in there, a new clutch and pressure plate should be installed.  Be sure to get a kit that matches the trans, not the engine.

 

Changing the pilot bushing/bearing should be done as well.  The AX15 input shaft tip changed sizes.  Depending on the year of your AX15, the tip may be diff from the old BA10.

 

Here is my AX15 swap: http://comancheclub.com/topic/48136-my-ax15-swap/

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I honestly think the BA 10-5 gets a bad rap. Keep it full of fluid and it will last a long time. Unless you are a hardcore wheeler. There was a thread a while back where people stated theirs lived for 200,000+ miles with no problems. So what are your intentions with the vehicle?

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My BA10 never left me stranded.  My complaint about it (and first generation AX15) is the stupid internal slave cylinder.  My 87 MJ was on its 5th slave cylinder.  I said it was not going to see a 6th.  I swapped it out last Aug/Sept after only 28 years and 282,000 miles.  Not too bad, if I must say.

 

I am not giving it a bad rap (except for the internal slave).

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IMO: Keep the BA 10-5 at least until it gives you problems. No need to throw money away on parts that, for right now at least, you do not need. Like 87MJTim said, if it becomes problematic, then by all means swap it out. But for a mostly daily driver it will be just fine. 

 

As for oil, I use 75W90 synthetic. Some people really like Redline MT oil. If you are looking to change your oil there is a really good how to article HERE.

 

A better place for you to start spending time is on Cruiser's Tips. Check out cruiser54.com. I highly recommend you do all of the listed tips BEFORE doing anything else with the vehicle. Get it running correctly from the start, then work on upgrades and other things.

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i picked up a 2wd mj with a ba10-5. the reverse gear blew with only 115 xxx KM on it.

 

you can find donors for super cheap, and make ALL your money back on parting it out, while still having all the parts needed.

 

depending on year of ax-15 the input shaft diameter will be different.

 

pb-74 is the correct bushing needed for the swap dependent on the year  (bushings i hydro out, bearings i chisel out from the crank)

 

my entire 4wd conversion cost $240  COMPLETE

 

so its not expensive at all, as long as you can wheel and deal and not get taken advantage of.

 

torx e12 socket is needed for the top two bolts on the bell housing.

 

if you use a newer trans, you need to swap the CPS sensor, renix and HO are not compatible

 

87MJTIM says to get a clutch that matches the trans, the only difference between the ba10-5 clutch and ax15 is the throwout bearing depending on year you select. earlier years have internal, later years have external that's where the difference in clutch kit comes in. if you choose external, select a newer cherokee as your vehicle at the parts store.

 

 

your internal can fail, IF you do not properly lubricate it, and the shaft that is on. there are three things that happen. the internal release bearing isnt properly lubricated on install (or due to being in for so long) that it doesn't allow the throw out bearing to properly extend, causing it to rupture.  OR the roll pin works its way out of the clutch line internally. OR you cheap out and get a lower quality reman. the internal  i have in my Mild build jeep has 340 000 KM on it, ZERO issues having taken all the provisions necessary,

 

 

do the 10w30 motor oil conversion while doing the swap. it is a jeep certified thing.  i run 10w30 in both of my standard jeeps, and its cheaper.

helps the shifts be nicer

 

 

any questions, i myself have done this swap more than once, and others like me have. all the info is here.  

 

good luck with your swap!

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