1989 comanche mj Posted April 21, 2016 Share Posted April 21, 2016 I have been searching all over, and getting conflicting info. Some people say xj pans work fine, some say no. 92 MJ 5 speed 4x4 4 liter short bed. I want a factory look, and have a plama cutter and mig. I don't want to just slap down sheet metal, want it to look factory. Its rotted from the start of the tunnel curve to the rocker, frame unibody rail looks fine but the floor above it is rotted away. Please tell me what brand, where to get them, or something. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Megadan Posted April 21, 2016 Share Posted April 21, 2016 XJ Front replacement pans will work, but do require a little bit of persuasion to work perfectly. I got my front pans from C2C, but there are many others out there you could use.http://www.c2cfabrication.com/collections/jeep-cherokee-parts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
91Pioneer Posted April 21, 2016 Share Posted April 21, 2016 C2C makes the worst fitting panels, run away from them. Best fitting are available from a number of places. I just ordered XJ rockers from this place, they seem to have legit stuff --> http://raybuck.com/?s=&post_type=product#/filter:ss_finder:1992$253EJeep$253ECherokee/filter:ss_hierarchy:Body$2520$2526$2520Chassis Fast shipping too, shipped out the next day and arrived in 4 days. I'm going to try and make XJ rockers fit my MJ. Specifically: http://raybuck.com/product/1984-01-jeep-cherokee-xj-front-floor-section-driver-side/ The best tip I can give you is not to search for MJ floor pans, search for XJ floor pans, you'll have much better success. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Megadan Posted April 21, 2016 Share Posted April 21, 2016 I can confirm the C2C pans are not the best fit, but they come setup to be tweaked to fit a little easier, and they are made out of 16ga steel vs other panels being made of 18 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikekaz1 Posted April 21, 2016 Share Posted April 21, 2016 The biggest issue is the raised sub frame. That's not reproduced. You need to salvage, custom build, or delete. I was planning on getting a ~6" wide piece of 1/8 and weld it to/through the floor pan to the frame flange and be just as effective if not better then stock. But I ended up just leaving it deleted and haven't noticed a single issue in the 2 years since. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1989 comanche mj Posted April 21, 2016 Author Share Posted April 21, 2016 Thanks for the replies. I just looked them up and noticed it says 84 to 01? If anybody can confirm that I have a 98 xj hit in the front that I could cut the pans from. I replaced floor pans in a 99 xj once, and used cut donors from a 93. They were different, however I replaced front and rear sections and don't recall if just the backs were different. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
91Pioneer Posted April 22, 2016 Share Posted April 22, 2016 84-01 are the same... Provided it's a 4 door. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Megadan Posted April 22, 2016 Share Posted April 22, 2016 The biggest issue is the raised sub frame. That's not reproduced. You need to salvage, custom build, or delete. I was planning on getting a ~6" wide piece of 1/8 and weld it to/through the floor pan to the frame flange and be just as effective if not better then stock. But I ended up just leaving it deleted and haven't noticed a single issue in the 2 years since. I've talked to and read a lot of articles where people have left it off, even when it is in good shape. AFAIK the XJ's don't even have that rail cap piece. Nobody has reported a single problem not running it, and IMHO I would rather not have it in place. It makes it possible to coat the entire floor instead of having a potential in-road to more rust. I figure I will leave mine off, weld it more than factory, and call it good. I feel more comfortable with doing this since the C2C pans I ordered are a thicker steel as well. Now I just need the chance to replace them... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buckwheat Posted April 22, 2016 Share Posted April 22, 2016 Not trying to hi-jack, but does anyone have a picture of this "raised sub frame"? or a link with pictures that detail replacing floor pans? I will be replacing my pans soon and want to get a good idea of what I am getting into. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
64 Cheyenne Posted April 22, 2016 Share Posted April 22, 2016 The biggest issue is the raised sub frame. That's not reproduced. You need to salvage, custom build, or delete. I was planning on getting a ~6" wide piece of 1/8 and weld it to/through the floor pan to the frame flange and be just as effective if not better then stock. But I ended up just leaving it deleted and haven't noticed a single issue in the 2 years since. I've talked to and read a lot of articles where people have left it off, even when it is in good shape. AFAIK the XJ's don't even have that rail cap piece. Nobody has reported a single problem not running it, and IMHO I would rather not have it in place. It makes it possible to coat the entire floor instead of having a potential in-road to more rust. I figure I will leave mine off, weld it more than factory, and call it good. I feel more comfortable with doing this since the C2C pans I ordered are a thicker steel as well. Now I just need the chance to replace them... Just did the pan on the drivers side, I did not buy an aftermarket pan, I made a posterboard template, then welded in a piece of 16ga about 18 x 24. As far as the raised sub frame, I deleted it, it does not appear to be frame structural but rather to back up the side support for side impact protection...I'm gonna run JCR sliders (bought them a few years ago) so I still have my side impact protection. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikekaz1 Posted April 22, 2016 Share Posted April 22, 2016 The biggest issue is the raised sub frame. That's not reproduced. You need to salvage, custom build, or delete. I was planning on getting a ~6" wide piece of 1/8 and weld it to/through the floor pan to the frame flange and be just as effective if not better then stock. But I ended up just leaving it deleted and haven't noticed a single issue in the 2 years since. I've talked to and read a lot of articles where people have left it off, even when it is in good shape. AFAIK the XJ's don't even have that rail cap piece. Nobody has reported a single problem not running it, and IMHO I would rather not have it in place. It makes it possible to coat the entire floor instead of having a potential in-road to more rust. I figure I will leave mine off, weld it more than factory, and call it good. I feel more comfortable with doing this since the C2C pans I ordered are a thicker steel as well. Now I just need the chance to replace them... correct XJs don't have them and I would personally see them as more needing of them in the first place since the MJ cab is so short compared to the XJ, I'm sure the MJ holds much more natural rigidity anyways. you do have to keep the rear half, as the seat brackets mount to this, so mine ends about an inch or so infront of the seat bracket, pretty much inline with that outer rocker support. I believe I used the 16ga panels also when I redid mine, and when rewelding I put a spot weld about every inch or so, and then I panel bonded ontop (technically from under) to hold and seal out any moisture also. even through New England winters while plowing, those new boards look like I did them last weekend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikekaz1 Posted April 22, 2016 Share Posted April 22, 2016 Not trying to hi-jack, but does anyone have a picture of this "raised sub frame"? or a link with pictures that detail replacing floor pans? I will be replacing my pans soon and want to get a good idea of what I am getting into. this Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikekaz1 Posted April 22, 2016 Share Posted April 22, 2016 this is mine, albeit not entirely pretty, I omitted both upper supports purely because I didn't like how they made the floor uneven.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
13 Legion Posted April 22, 2016 Share Posted April 22, 2016 Very nice job! 'It's not pretty..' Nah it looks good!! What seam sealer did you use? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikekaz1 Posted April 22, 2016 Share Posted April 22, 2016 Very nice job! 'It's not pretty..' Nah it looks good!! What seam sealer did you use? I welded it, then sprayed everything with this , http://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleum-Professional-15-oz-Flat-Gray-Cold-Galvanizing-Compound-7585838/100142963 not sure if this is the exact one but here is a panel bond... http://3mcollision.com/3m-panel-bonding-adhesive-08115.html and then covered everything in http://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleum-Automotive-15-oz-Truck-Bed-Coating-Black-Spray-Paint-248914/202097787 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1989 comanche mj Posted April 23, 2016 Author Share Posted April 23, 2016 I ended up ordering the Key panels, I found out that the c2c panels are now 19 gauge, thats thin stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
64 Cheyenne Posted April 24, 2016 Share Posted April 24, 2016 I ended up ordering the Key panels, I found out that the c2c panels are now 19 gauge, thats thin stuff. If I ever do it again, I'm using 18 ga cold rolled. The 16 ga was a little tough to work with. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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