Access to front brake valve?

[lerpoel]

Hi all,

 

I'm trying to plug the bypass line in the front brake valve, but I don't get how I am supposed to access the front brake valve without removing the header. I've swapped axles and done some body work, but I've been hesitant towards messing around in the engine bay so far... Especially with all the electronics looking more like a rats nest than something assembled by technicians.

 

Does anyone have some tips on how to access the (bottom of the) front brake valve?

 

[500 MJ]

I'm guessing you're talking about the proportioning block, it's not really a valve from what I understand of it...

 

I've always had the best luck by removing it to do the modification. In the rust belt, removing it is usually done when we replace our rear brake line thanks to it rusting through... I did this long ago on my '88 and last year on my '90, it wasn't too bad for either one.

 

Get a set of flare nut wrenches for the brake lines, remove the air cleaner box, and you're ready to do the job!

[Eagle]

I don't recall exactly how I did it, but I know I didn't remove it from the truck. IIRC I had the air filter box out.

[lerpoel]

So removing the airbox seems like the first step. I'll try that and see if I feel the need to remove the block also.

 

I kind of started this whole thing "from the back". Removed the bed to de-rust the frame rails, and has been stuck in this stage for 1,5 years now. Just cleaned the rear axle, swapped the shocks for new ones, and cleaned the drum brakes. 

 

Running new brake lines feels like the next step and I've ripped the old rear ones out and installed a new one (after reading your tips on removing the load sensing valve) from the axle to under the cab.

 

First test-drive of 1,5 years feels very close now. :)

[xjustinx]

I had to bend a wrench to get into the tight spaces. Also had to just vicegrip some of the fittings cause mine started rounding off. The job sucked, but in the end I got it done. I replaced my block with a prop valve from a zj and eliminated the hight sensing valve out back.

[Rockfrog]

If you removed the load sensing valve ... why not replace the distribution block with an XJ Prop Valve ... it the same size/shape but adds brake proportioning back into the system again. Makes it easier when running new lines to the back as well.

 

Easy as pie to swap in, did mine when the rear lines turned to dust, just removed the air box and had plenty of room to work.