Replacing Slave Cylinder in BA 10-5

[buckwheat]

I have an 87 MJ 4.0L with the Pukegoat BA 10-5. The slave cylinder gave out and I am currently trying to figure out how to drop the transmission to get at the little bugger. Here are the issues / questions I have so far: 

 

1: I read that the shifter tower needs to be removed. I have gotten as far as this. Seems like the rubber ring needs to come up. I tried to pull on it and twist it but it didn't seem to budge. I also don't want to break or tear anything. What should I try and do next? 

 

2. I need to remove the transfer case linkage from the arm on the transfer case, as well as from the transmission itself. On the transmission it seems like one nut to remove and I should be good there. Its the transfer case that I ran into problems. Is the linkage pressed together with a bushing? Do I just need to get mad at it to pull it apart? Anybody have a method? Again, trying to not break anything and keep the cost of this repair as low as possible.

 

3. How many bolts are there to be removed on the bellhousing? I know the "top two" are E-12 and I already have a socket for them, but what others do I have to remove? Some of them seem to hold the inspection cover on and I don't think I need to mess with them. Any photos, guides, or advice would be nice here. 

 

4. Misc things or advice. First time dropping a transmission, or do any work of this sort. So anything you guys have that would help me is appreciated. For instance, I know that Pete recommends replacing the E-12 bolts with studs to help with transmission alignment. I plan on trying this. Anything that makes the job easier.

 

Thanks for reading. Can't wait to get this done and get the truck back on the road.

[gogmorgo]

I'm ASSuming everything is similar to my '91 4.0/AW4, so can't confirm accuracy. But here goes.

1. Can't comment

2. The linkage pivots are ball-and-socket joints. I've used sturdy screwdrivers and/or needle-nose players and/or trim fastener removal tools (whatever was handy...) to pop them apart. A good squeeze with channel locks pops them back together. The pivot that mounts to the body, though, is another animal. I've usually undone the bushing bolts and let the rod fall out as I dropped the trans, since the bracket bolts welded themselves to the trans tunnel. This makes an extra consideration when putting the trans back in, but if you don't have to adjust the linkage after pulling everything, all the better in my mind.

3. You should be able to find several write-ups for the trans removal to help with this. In addition to the two top e12's, there are two bolts at ~9 and 3 positions. I want to say 15mm but memory's fuzzy, they could be bigger, but they should be regular hex bolts. There should also be a couple dowel pins in there. This ASSumes you're pulling the bellhousing off the engine, not the trans.

4. If you're using a trans jack with adjustment, make sure you figure out how it works and that you get the trans on it the right direction... it sucks getting it all set together only to discover all your adjustment's in the wrong direction. You don't need a special jack for the job, although it makes it easier to get things lined up than just a floor jack would, and it's a lot of weight to support with one hand while you're fiddling with bolts in the other. Expect the job to take three times as long as your worst-case scenario, it's not hugely difficult, just a steep learning curve. It was much easier the second time I did it.

 

Hopefully I've helped, and maybe someone with ba-10 experience can chime in.

[87MJTIM]

I have an 87 MJ 4.0L with the Pukegoat BA 10-5. The slave cylinder gave out and I am currently trying to figure out how to drop the transmission to get at the little bugger. Here are the issues / questions I have so far: 

 

1: I read that the shifter tower needs to be removed. I have gotten as far as this. Seems like the rubber ring needs to come up. I tried to pull on it and twist it but it didn't seem to budge. I also don't want to break or tear anything. What should I try and do next? 

 

2. I need to remove the transfer case linkage from the arm on the transfer case, as well as from the transmission itself. On the transmission it seems like one nut to remove and I should be good there. Its the transfer case that I ran into problems. Is the linkage pressed together with a bushing? Do I just need to get mad at it to pull it apart? Anybody have a method? Again, trying to not break anything and keep the cost of this repair as low as possible.

 

3. How many bolts are there to be removed on the bellhousing? I know the "top two" are E-12 and I already have a socket for them, but what others do I have to remove? Some of them seem to hold the inspection cover on and I don't think I need to mess with them. Any photos, guides, or advice would be nice here. 

 

4. Misc things or advice. First time dropping a transmission, or do any work of this sort. So anything you guys have that would help me is appreciated. For instance, I know that Pete recommends replacing the E-12 bolts with studs to help with transmission alignment. I plan on trying this. Anything that makes the job easier.

 

Thanks for reading. Can't wait to get this done and get the truck back on the road.

1. Slide the boot sleeve up.  There are four ( ?) bolts that hold the shifter to the trans.  Just lift the whole thing up.  Put a cover, like foil, over the opening to keep stuff from falling in.

 

2. As Gogmorgo said, it is held by ball-n-socket connectors.  It may help to loosen the bracket on the trans/tcase side to give some room to pop the connections.  The bracket is held on by two nuts that hold the tcase to the trans.

 

3. Four bolts hold the trans to the engine.  However, there are lower bolts that hold the dust cover to the bellhousing.  Also, the two bolts that hold the starter.

 

4. I did an AX15 swap last Sept.  Here is my thread on the swap.  I may have some tips on dropping the trans and tcase.  http://comancheclub.com/topic/48136-my-ax15-swap/

 

Good luck.

[JeepsOLot]

I didn't take out the shift tower when I did my slave. I just pulled the boot up through the floor, and spun the keeper collar for the shifter off with two screw drivers, and pulled the shifter straight up out of the tower.

 

Jerry

[87MJTIM]

JeepsOLot:  From your signature line, I don't see a BA10 listed, or Jeep that would have even come with a BA10.

 

The BA is diff from the AX.

[outlaw star]

JeepsOLot: From your signature line, I don't see a BA10 listed, or Jeep that would have even come with a BA10.

 

The BA is diff from the AX.

His Mj has a BA10 in it, split case and all.

I've worked on it so I can attest.

[buckwheat]

Thanks for the responses. I think I have everything unhooked and unplugged. Tomorrow's job is dropping the transmission. I noticed that the transmission support that goes from one side of the frame to the other has half the bolts its supposed to. The OP snapped off the other half. So that is going to add a day to my project, removing snapped and rusted bolts. I am beginning to see why a shop would charge so much to replace a single part. I am also wondering why internal slave cylinders were ever created. Isn't external a better plan on all fronts?

[87MJTIM]

That is why I switched to an AX15 w/ external slave.  My MJ was on its 5th internal slave cyl.  I have always said it was not getting a 6th.

[oldseddie]

A internal slave is a great design in theory. The throw out bearing should last forever, but if the clutch ever gets hot it takes out the internal seals.

[thejim42]

ive had to do this multiple times. my biggest problem was the retaining pin and washer to hold the slave to the transmission itself. i ended up drilling the hole out and tapping it to 1/4x20 bolt. havent had a problem since.

[JeepsOLot]

87MJTIM, my '88 Eliminator isn't in my signature for some reason, it's the one I had to do the BA10/5 slave for.

 

Jerry

[teamsmith]

buckwheat, I assume you've figured it all out by now but I wanted to mention that, when removing the shift tower, there is an additional set screw on the driver side of the tower to keep the shifter from being pulled out. I had to reach up from below with a small ratchet to get it off. 

[87MJTIM]

87MJTIM, my '88 Eliminator isn't in my signature for some reason, it's the one I had to do the BA10/5 slave for.

 

Jerry

Sorry for the confusion.  I hope you were not offended.  

 

It is just that the shift tower on the BA doesn't come apart like the AX.

[buckwheat]

Alright, I think the project is almost over. The hard parts are done for sure. The slave cylinder is replaced and the transmission is once again bolted to the engine. Now I need to replace all the rusted bolts with stainless steel and drill out all the ones that snapped off. Then replace all the hoses and wires and things. But that is easy enough.

 

Thanks everyone for the help.