Francesco Posted November 5, 2015 Share Posted November 5, 2015 Hey Everyone! Just bought my first Jeep, a 1990 Comanche 2WD 5 Speed eliminator. Not liking the 2WD part, and I'm planning on swapping that out as soon as possible. Future plans include a Froehlich 3 link long arm setup in front, with 3.5" metalcloak dual rate springs. Not sure on the rear, either hellcreek 3" and a ironfab4x4 adjustable shackle, or a rustys 4" spring, but I haven't heard much good about his springs, or anything for that matter. I decided to make a thread, in order to ask any questions I may run into. To start off, I would like to know if I need to brace my frame with a long arm kit. I understand that the MJ has a stronger frame, but if it will EVENTUALLY wear out, I'd like to brace it now and save myself the ache later. Mostly because the Froehlich kit requires welding onto the frame for the LCAs and UCA brackets. Any advice would be appreciated. When this build is done, I'm hoping to have a rear locker(not auto), a front locker(maybe auto), winch and bumpers front & rear, a ~4 inch lift, on 33x12.5/15 tires. I realize this will limit my uptravel, but I do NOT plan on trimming. Just running tube fenders. Shooting for ~4" of up travel, and I will be content with what I have. I was thinking 31s, but I think I like the look of a little more meat. Final gears will be 4.10s as well, since this is still going to be a daily driver. Any tips? Thanks, Francesco Also, how does one upload pictures on this site? Never done a build thread before, only 18 and this is just my second car!Thanks again guys Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted November 5, 2015 Share Posted November 5, 2015 http://comancheclub.com/topic/37727-how-to-post-pictures/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnj92131 Posted November 5, 2015 Share Posted November 5, 2015 You are talking about a daily driver in you subject and this is a new to you Comanche. I suggest that you need to live with the truck for a few (3-6) months, learn what works and what doesn't. Take care of all those problems FIRST - and there will be a bunch of them; Then you will have a better sense if you want to start modifying your daily driver and just exactly why you want to modify it. Cruiser's mostly Renix Tips are a great place to start: http://comancheclub.com/topic/48463-cruisers-mostly-renix-tips/ Post your progress as you work thru each item on Cruiser's list. It will be a great start and give you a good truck to work with from there. Also, as Pete posts all the time: Check for rust! Pull up your carpet - check for rust. Might also want to do the later model power brake booster mod. Better brakes are a great starting thing also. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Francesco Posted November 6, 2015 Author Share Posted November 6, 2015 Hey again, Thanks for the tips. Will be shortly doing all maintenance stuff on the Renix motor, and the drive line. Will be swapping to 4WD before doing some of it, because the rear main seal leaks, as well as a few other places, and will be doing a light reseal, and a cleaning of the motor while most of it is out to make it easier. Car is VERY rust free, and why I am so excited to start. The truck will be stock until summer time, where I will be doing the lift and such. Until then, I will be working out bugs/enjoying the stock mileage while I can :rotf: . Brakes definitely could use the later model mod, that will be one of the first things I do. Any other convenient mods that are recommended? Here are some pictures of the car: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thexjfiles Posted November 6, 2015 Share Posted November 6, 2015 That's not a car, but a hell of a nice truck ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Francesco Posted November 6, 2015 Author Share Posted November 6, 2015 :rotf: :doh: Thanks for that one! I was excited when I found this one. May be picking up a Dana 44 (3.55 gears, for now), and a tcase/tranny (external slave) soon. Will drive as stock 4WD for a bit, and iron out all the kinks I find! Stay tuned. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Francesco Posted November 9, 2015 Author Share Posted November 9, 2015 Hey everyone, The other day the truck started idling funky, and low. It all pointed to the IAC, so I took off the TB and IAC, and cleaned them both. Now it is idling a lot better, and I put in an order for Volvo 746 injectors, and a tune up kit(plugs cap wires rotor). Fuel pump makes a slight whine, but I don't think I need to worry just yet. Does take a while to start at cranking, either bad injector leaking, or the FPR is leaking. Not worried about either, because I'm replacing the injectors, and the FPR is part of the fuel filter(correct?) and that will get replaced soon. Took an engine de-greaser can to the old oil leak I fixed, and cleaned up the engine bay. Forgot to take pictures before, I always do that. Here are some after pictures. I'll get better as I go along. Idle is now smooth, and the response is stronger as well. Also, when I use the heater at a stop light, I get a faint smell of gas. Not sure if I get it without it? I'll have to double check. Any suggestions? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Francesco Posted November 14, 2015 Author Share Posted November 14, 2015 Well, I suck at remembering to take pictures, but here's what I've done. Picked up a Dana 44 with Chromoly axle shafts, replaced the injectors with 746 EV1 injectors, new coil and o2 sensor, and getting ready to replace the axles! Here are some pictures: I will try and take more pictures, but I'll describe what's going on so far. Axles will be cleaned and painted, and all bushings will be replaced. New ball joints and u joints too. Hunting down a NP231, and an AX15(external slave), and going to get a JB SYE kit for it while it's out most likely. As of now, the axles are 3.55, but the rear is CHEWED. Found a used set I'm going to pick up this weekend, and have at doing gears myself! Eventually will be 4.10s on 33s, just didn't want to fork over the cash for new gears and a new carrier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DansGreyMj Posted November 14, 2015 Share Posted November 14, 2015 I would go lower than 4.10s for 33s. I've been running that for years and it's too high. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Francesco Posted November 15, 2015 Author Share Posted November 15, 2015 Are you saying I should run 4.56? or 3.73? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DansGreyMj Posted November 15, 2015 Share Posted November 15, 2015 Lower as in numerically higher, ie 4.56+ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Francesco Posted January 29, 2016 Author Share Posted January 29, 2016 Well, its been a while and I suck at taking pictures, so I'll take some later today. Finally sourced another Dana 44 with 3.55, and began my 4wd swap. All in all it went well, and I ran into a few things I didn't expect, however I'll get into more detail later today. This is what I ended up with: Dana 30/44 3.55 Gears AX-15 Exo Slave/ NP231 Novak Cable Shifter Will be taking pictures and talking about the process. Next is my lift, which I posted here for help on some questions I had: http://comancheclub.com/topic/49415-suspension-setup-critiquing/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doc. Posted January 30, 2016 Share Posted January 30, 2016 4.56 gears on 33's? I have 4.56 on 35's and like it (off road truck). Wheeled with some 33's once because I didn't have time to fix a couple leaking 35's and didn't like the way it wheeled on 33's with 4.56. I've run many a Cherokee on 33's (on and off road) with just 3.55's and had no "problem". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TooTall Posted January 30, 2016 Share Posted January 30, 2016 Eeek,i be scared to tear that beutiful truck up!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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