Francesco

Hey Jdog, What size are the stock fusible links, In case I need to replace them?

The ignition switch is pretty new, but I'm going to replace it (lifetime warranty), and check the links tomorrow. Thanks

Hey guys, I had my 90 Renix die on the freeway the other day, all power was lost to everything, no radio, air, etc, and the motor shut off. I replaced the starter relay, and it started working again. Today, I was working on it, and flipped the AC on. The minute I did, the Jeep died and lost all electricity again. Any ideas? Did I just get a bad starter relay? I have done ALL of the cruiser fixes, including the harness repair, and I checked it last time it lost all power before replacing the starter relay, and it was fine. Any ideas?

Hey everyone! So I got the truck running, turns out it was the ecu after all, however now it is running a bit rough, and you can feel it misfire every few seconds and stumble when giving it gas. I put new plug wires and plugs on there as well, because the old ones were old, and the plug wires weren’t seating well. I am going to index the distributor this evening.

So after the ecu swap it turns out I do have injector pulsing now, however still a no start. I have spark confirmed as well, just went to TDC And checked I didn’t put the distributor on backwards.

So while cranking I have 1.6V on my voltmeter on hold on both INJ Feed pins, and have continuity to the fuel pump relay pin (87 I think).

So I should key on and check for voltage at the INJ Feed pins?

So the B+ Latch relay wiring tested pretty solid, it had some resistance when connected to ground, however I tested the wiring from ECU to relay and it was solid. I will continue to follow that wire, as well as test the fuel pump relay.

Thank you, I will try and test that today / tomorrow and see what comes from it.

Do you have the entire route? Key on from ignition switch goes to b+ relay to fuel pump relay to ecu, etc?

Okay, I will test the wiring from the B+ relay to the ECU, and make sure it's getting power.

Hey everyone, I got a replacement ECU off of Ebay with no fix of my issues. I tested all injector wires, all have continuity to ground on one side and proper continuity with the ECU connectors on the other end. Not sure what to test next, I'm stumped. I ripped apart the harness, plan on soldering the crimps and fixing all that ugly, but found zero issues with the harness itself as well.

Hey guys, My truck has me stumped. I pulled apart the engine harness this morning to see if I had any issues and do the Cruiser54 ground fix, even though my harness was ohming out totally fine, and the harness looks perfect inside. My issues is I'm getting spark, but no injector firing. Injectors all have continuity to ground, and I tested their continuity to the switches at the ECU harness and they were fine. My ECU has a burnt diode on it, and am in the process of getting a new ECU, however I need to make sure that there wasn't something that caused the ECU to go bad in the first place. Plus, when I connect the ECU, all of the wiring in the car instantly gets weird, as far as continuity between ground and power, etc. I'm hoping it's all an ECU issue, because once I unplug it goes away. Car used to run fine and I've had it for several years so I know there isn't some issue that it's been improperly rewired. Here is what I've done so far: Tested all sensors (CPS @ 220 ohms and 0.55V) Distributor, fuel pump, FPR, CPS, and all sensors have been replaced within 2 years (fuel pump and dizzy last month) Has just under 40 psi fuel pressure cranking Starts and runs on VERY rare occasions, so I know it's not a timing issue, etc. I have done all Cruiser54 fixes (add grounds, clean ECU, clean connectors, etc) Let me know if you guys have anything else I can test!

Like the title says looking for a complete black interior for my Comanche - no carpet is okay and I don't need the door panels. I'd like the interior panels and dash. Located in 90703, Long Beach CA.

Sucks to hear about the ticket - it's $#!&ty, I get pulled over for no reason sometimes and they literally walk around my truck. I support the cops, just not the ones in my area. Just picking on kids because of their hobby, its pathetic. They also leave abandoned notices on my other car at least once a week, its the law, but the only reason they come is because its old. My neighbors cars never get tickets. And they wonder why the younger generation doesn't support them...

Title says it all, looking for a reflexxion cowl hood, I'm in Ventura, CA.

Okay, So I did this one myself. This is a COMPLETE(if i remember correctly) list of what I needed: 4wd Transmission 4wd pilot bearing 4wd shift linkage front driveshaft and rear (different size) 4wd engine harness (if you want the 4wd light, etc) front axle front brakes (they weren't the same for me, i think it was the knuckles that were different which made the calipers different too) i replaced my unit bearings too, AFAIK the 2wd ones have a plug you can remove, but IDK. I highly recommend finding an external slave transmission (assuming youre a 5 speed) while everything is apart. Will save you lots of time if your slave goes out (and mine already has)

Cody, I'm planning on getting the intake ported as well yes. Expensive! Should work real well though. Fingers crossed lol. Need to find a 99+ intake first.

Question for all forum guys with ANY experience in this: I'm looking for a ceramic coated, CARB legal header for an XJ/MJ. I'd be better off finding unicorns... Anyways, I've narrowed it down to two: (am I allowed to post links?) Gibson: https://www.amazon.com/Gibson-GP400S-C-Ceramic-Coated-Performance/dp/B000LG4ATA JBA: https://www.amazon.com/JBA-1526SJT-Stainless-Titanium-Wrangler/dp/B000N5JNF0 Anyways, my main concerns are QC (I've heard great AND bad things from both..do I just go for it?), and air flow. Are these big enough for a stroker? I was totally down for a set of DT, but after all the negative things I've seen about them, that's out the window. Any advice is welcome. Thanks!

Interested in the front two manual doors off a 97+ XJ. Manual everything is preferred. Thanks

Just ordered 24 lb injectors. I'm sure if they don't work out, someone on here will want them. Any opinons on the best brand of bearings to order? Sealed Power? Clevite? Kings? I don't mind paying a little extra for something that will go longer. Also, opinions on the HV mellings oil pump? I got some Johnson lifters as well, seems like those are well liked. Once i pick up my block, I get to drop my head off. Getting ported, polished, machined to 60cc and LS valves installed. My wallets going to hate me :rotf:

I'll let you know. I ended up with the 1.6 rockers because I wanted more low end torque, and the 1.7 just seemed equivalent to running a bigger camshaft. I also went with the non adjustable because I didn't want the HE$CO Valve cover spacer lol. They sure look darn pretty Edit: I went these over the YT because these are rebuild able I'm being told, and those aren't. Also, I got them for like 340$ so a good deal in my books.

Hey everyone, I first posted here when I got my jeep, and I suck at taking pictures haha. I'm determined to keep my build going for this motor though! So far, I've gotten a parts motor, pistons, rods, and machining is going on. Here's some pictures of what I have so far: Cleaned up oil pan: Roller Rockers: Block Getting machined (Thanks russ!) I've been working with Russ Pottinger, who everyone loves, to design this motor. So far, these are what I have planned: 40 over forged pistons 24 cc dish full floating scat steel rods 12 weight crank ported and polished 0630 head with LS valves ported 99+ intake CARB legal headers (lord help me) 24lb injectors (or 30 lb so much conflicting information) Comp Camps 232 double roller billet timing chain So a few questions as I progress (slowly) through this build. Russ seems to think I'll make around 275/365 on this motor (damn), with about a 9.6 Compression ratio, and he is INSISTENT on the fact that I can still run 87. My block is getting a .008 deck, with the piston sticking out of the bore, with the mopar perf head gasket. We will see! About the injectors, I was doing some online calculating, and apparently to push 275HP I'll need a 28.6lb/hr injector, which the ford 24lb isnt enough. Would an adjustable MAP and FPR be enough, or should I spring for the 30lb ford injectors? More questions as I move along, my goal is to finish by Christmas for a new years snow trip! Here's a picture of my Jeep for now as she sits: (anyone want to buy those fenders? lol) Francesco

Dirty Comanche, if you say some of the welds I've seen, you'd want it outlawed too :rotf: :doh:

Not sure about where you live, but in many states welding on the steering is illegal.