HOrnbrod Posted September 7, 2015 Share Posted September 7, 2015 The left-hand threaded tie rod end that connects the drag link to the steering box arm for the 1990 XJ/MJ and below is p/n 52000608. The same TRE for the 91 and up is p/n 52005739. Does anyone know what the difference(s) between the two is? Length? Thread? The reason I ask is that I have run out of adjustment on the drag link turnbuckle this TRE threads into (jammed) and can't quite center my steering wheel. So I'm hoping someone has one of each to eyeball and can determine if the difference is only length. OR, can someone measure the distance below and let me know which year TRE they are measuring? Then I can compare it to what I have. Image Not Found Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeeptruck636 Posted September 8, 2015 Share Posted September 8, 2015 My 91 measures 5-1/2". Hope that helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted September 8, 2015 Author Share Posted September 8, 2015 My 91 measures 5-1/2". Hope that helps. Yep, same as mine. The threaded ends of the tie rod end and drag link are butting against each other inside the adjusting coupler, and I have no more adjustment to center the steering wheel. I've never seen this before. :hmm: Anyone have any ideas? The best solution I guess is to pull the tie rod end off the Pitman are and shorten it about 1/2". I have all the interchangeable beefier V8 ZJ steering stuff installed including the drag link, so there's nothing unusual in the setup....... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeeptruck636 Posted September 9, 2015 Share Posted September 9, 2015 Did you ever remove the steering wheel? If I remember the factory wheel is splined and has no locating keys. So you can index it to wherever you like. My aftermarket wheel has 3 positions, and if I have it the one way I run out of adjustment, just like yours. With 2.5" lift and zj drag link I can't see you having issues, unless the drag link is longer. I thought they were the same length though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted September 9, 2015 Author Share Posted September 9, 2015 I have a custom Buick wheel from a Skylark, and it's hub is the same as the stock jeep wheel. And the ZJ V8 drag link is the same length as the XJ/MJ drag link, just a little beefier. I recently replaced the steering gear, and always "index" the steering wheel when I do this by cranking the steering gear input gear to the exact center of the steering arc, then install the steering wheel as it should be for straight ahead driving. Then use the drag link adjuster for fine tuning, usually no more the half a turn. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeeptruck636 Posted September 9, 2015 Share Posted September 9, 2015 To correct myself, I had a old steering wheel laying around, and you cannot locate it to wherever you want because of the hole for the horn. As for yours, that is odd. I know the pitman arm is located so you can't adjust it, and I'm pretty sure the input shaft to gear box is also, so there isn't much adjustment. If it was me and everything looked correct, I would do what you said and just cut a bit off, and your good to go. Unless anybody else has any ideas. Nice wheel BTW. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fiatslug87 Posted September 9, 2015 Share Posted September 9, 2015 My '88 measures ~4 7/16. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted September 9, 2015 Author Share Posted September 9, 2015 My '88 measures ~4 7/16. Thanks Mike. But I think the TRE rod diameter threads are smaller in the 89's and below, like 20mm vs. 22mm. Correct me if I'm wrong. To correct myself, I had a old steering wheel laying around, and you cannot locate it to wherever you want because of the hole for the horn. As for yours, that is odd. I know the pitman arm is located so you can't adjust it, and I'm pretty sure the input shaft to gear box is also, so there isn't much adjustment. If it was me and everything looked correct, I would do what you said and just cut a bit off, and your good to go. Unless anybody else has any ideas.. :doh: Been awhile since I had the wheel off. You are right, forgot about the horn button hole. Hopefully someone may have a better idea than cutting down the TRE. I just don't understand why it's happening. It shouldn't be...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fiatslug87 Posted September 9, 2015 Share Posted September 9, 2015 I think the TRE rod diameter threads are smaller in the 89's and below, like 20mm vs. 22mm. Correct me if I'm wrong. Don't know. Are the adjustment tube and tie rod different PNs? 52001736 and 52000601, respectively for 90 and below. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gogmorgo Posted September 9, 2015 Share Posted September 9, 2015 Even with the horn pin, there's still some adjustability in steering wheel position, although it's less than a quarter turn of the wheel. You could extend or re-drill the hole in the steering lock plate to re-clock the horn pin, maybe? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted September 9, 2015 Author Share Posted September 9, 2015 Even with the horn pin, there's still some adjustability in steering wheel position, although it's less than a quarter turn of the wheel. You could extend or re-drill the hole in the steering lock plate to re-clock the horn pin, maybe? Hmmm, you have given me an idea gogmorgo. I haven't been in my steering column for years and forgot how it looked inside, so I pulled up a pic of the upper innards. The horn cap retainer has three holes and can be re-clocked by 120* cw or ccw. Then the wheel should go back on either cw or ccw from it's present position. If I go the right way, I should be able to adjust the wheel back to center and un-jam the drag link adjustment tube, si? Now to figure which way I have to rotate w/o having to do it twice. :fs1: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted September 9, 2015 Author Share Posted September 9, 2015 Well, figured it out in case this happens to anyone else. Pull the horn cap, remove the three Phillips head screws and take out the horn plate and insulators, then remove the steering wheel. In the borrowed pic below it's hard to see, but the horn ground pin sits in an elongated oval hole and will slide up and down about 1/2". My horn pin was set all the way to the top, so I slid it down to the bottom position. This is an adjustment to equalize the turn signal canceling cam so it turns off the turn signals at the same rotational points in right and left turns. Setting the horn pin in the lower position causes the horn ground plate, insulators, and horn cap retainer all to move a little cw when reassembled, which is what I wanted. Now I could turn the adjusting tube on the drag link to un-jam the TRE and drag link and rotate the tube adjuster about 3-1/2 turns to re-center the steering wheel. I've got plenty of adjustment now for the steering wheel in the future if necessary and the turn signals click off more equally turning right or left than before. Interesting little problem now gone. :banana: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gogmorgo Posted September 9, 2015 Share Posted September 9, 2015 This isn't what mine looks though so not really what I meant... I guess the column shift ones are different? Glad to know I could help, though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted September 9, 2015 Author Share Posted September 9, 2015 No, we have the same basic column; the pics I posted were for reference only. I should have taken actual pics of mine when I had it apart. It's just like the below, as it is for all the Jeep 3-spoke wheels. Part #12, the canceling cam where the horn grounding wire/spring comes through is the part I was referring to that slides up and down to adjust the turn signal canceling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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