Rear main seal and pilot bearing problems/questions

[Jackrabbit41]

So I've been doing the ax15 swap and I'm working on the rear main seal and pilot bearing right now. I have the oil pan out only because the gasket was leaking so i thought i should replace it, plus it makes it easier with the tranny out to. My question is how do i replace the Rear main seal and the pilot bearing. The seal napa gave me looks way different then the one i puled out and the one i pulled out is a 2 piece while the napa one is a one piece. Ive watched multiple videos on the RMS, but still confused. I have the pilot bearing that fits the ax15 output shaft but how do i get the old pugeuot one out and put in the new ax15 one? the ax15 PB looks bigger too. here's some pics. I'm hoping to be done with this in 2 days so as much advice as you can give id love, thanks!

 

 

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Here is the new ax15 PB compared to the one thats still in. the bearing came with a little plastic tool thing, what is that? 

 

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[ScottJeep]

My research provided this rear main seal.....looks like all the ones I have done. 

 

FPG BS40612

 

 

 

Remember reading someplace about using grease to push the old bearing out..... looking for that link now...

[ParadiseMJ]

I have the pilot bearing that fits the ax15 output shaft but how do i get the old pugeuot one out and put in the new ax15 one?

 

 

Rent a puller (slide hammer type) from Auto Zone, pops right out

[Jackrabbit41]

 

 

I have the pilot bearing that fits the ax15 output shaft but how do i get the old pugeuot one out and put in the new ax15 one?

 

Rent a puller (slide hammer type) from Auto Zone, pops right out

So will that ax15 bearing fit right in?

[1987Comanche]

I used a brass punch to drive the RMS out to the point where I could grab it with a pair of Vise-Grips.  In one instance I bent the punch so I had to (very carefully!) use a steel punch.  That was the absolute last option as it's easy to mar the crank with any metal other than brass.  40612 sounds like the right P/N for the RMS...I've done too many of them...

 

  The plastic tool is to aid in installation.  If you don't place it between the block and seal you can damage the new seal during installation.  The sharp corner of the block can nick/shave rubber off the OD of the new RMS.

 

Pull the old pilot bearing out and compare OD.  If the OD is the same as the old one you're in business.  The ID changed b/c the input shaft dia changed on the AX15 in 91 or 92.  Try sliding the new pilot bearing on the tip of the input shaft.  If it fits you're all set.

[87MJTIM]

The RMS is two pieces.  If the parts guy gave you on one piece, take it back.  Here is the NAPA part:

 

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Rear-Main-Seal-Set/_/R-FPBBS40612_0147549720

 

As ParadiseMJ said, rent a puller from the parts store.  I got one from PepBoys, part #27059.  Look like:

 

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/oes-27059?seid=srese1&gclid=CMntr5OjwMcCFUQSHwodKN8FuQ

 

The two fingers grab the PB from the inside.  The bigger end threads on to a slide hammer.   A couple of good firm tugs and it (should) pop out.

[ParadiseMJ]

I broke one of the ears on the first one I got...no problem...they expect little screw ups like that.  If I had bought it, I'd be SOL after a couple months.  I think it was defective or the previous user had abused it.  The PB popped out on the first try.  Spray some PB or similar penetrating oil a few hours before.  If you're having trouble, hit it with a torch.

 

As far as fitment, I couldn't say. Size it up to the hole and the shaft, seat it with a wood block and whack.

[Jackrabbit41]

So i pulled it out and the sleeve around it. the new PB for the ax15 fits into the hole but not tight. you can easily push it in hand tight. what should i do? 

 

first picture:

top is new ax15 PB

bottom is sleeve and old PB

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second picture: 

 

top is new ax15 PB

 

both is old PB on top of Sleeve

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[Jackrabbit41]

Is it a bad sign of no one responds? Lol. Seems like somebody's run into this problem with all the ax15 swaps out there

[1987Comanche]

Have a set of calipers handy?  If you can pop it in and out by hand it's way too loose.  You'll need the OD of the old sleeve (or ID of the hole in the crank), ID of the new bearing (or OD of the AX15 input shaft) and will have to hit NAPA or Carquest to find something that matches both dimensions.  ID of the crank hole and OD of the input shaft would be best.  Worst case is to find a bronze bushiing that's slighly oversize and have it machined to fit. 

 

  Search AMC 304V8 pilot bearing and see if you get any hits.  I recall seeing something about this issue with Renix to HO swaps but I haven't personally run into it.

[Jackrabbit41]

It just seems like somebody else would've had this problem. I can't be the only one

[Jackrabbit41]

Have a set of calipers handy? If you can pop it in and out by hand it's way too loose. You'll need the OD of the old sleeve (or ID of the hole in the crank), ID of the new bearing (or OD of the AX15 input shaft) and will have to hit NAPA or Carquest to find something that matches both dimensions. ID of the crank hole and OD of the input shaft would be best. Worst case is to find a bronze bushiing that's slighly oversize and have it machined to fit.

 

Search AMC 304V8 pilot bearing and see if you get any hits. I recall seeing something about this issue with Renix to HO swaps but I haven't personally run into it.

When you swapped yours, what did you do

[1987Comanche]

Maura, my 1990, had an AX-15 but it was an early internal slave AX with the smaller input shaft diameter.  I did an engine R&R (well 2 thanks to the pi$$ poor rebuild from ATK de Mexico) and added the external slave front bearing retainer and bellhousing.  The smaller diameter input shaft remained so the Renix pilot bearing worked ok.  When I converted Georgia to external slave/4WD both transmissions had the larger diameter input shaft.  The included pilot bearing worked fine with the larger dia input shaft/HO engine combo.  You're creating a hybrid, large input shaft dia with Renix crank. 

 

  I'd take old & new pilot bearings & hit NAPA/machine shop 1st thing tomorrow AM.

[87MJTIM]

There is thread on CC about this issue.  I believe it is a 78 CJ5, 304 Pilot Bushing that fits the the Renix engine and a later AX15.  (At least I hope so.  That is what I purchased from Rockauto for my conversion.)

[Jackrabbit41]

I'm headed to a machine shop in the morning to get a bronze bushing made

[Jackrabbit41]

Also, should j use the comanche cross member or the Cherokee one? I know I need to do some modifications which isn't a problem just wondering what's involved

[87MJTIM]

Use the crossmember from the Cherokee.  

[Jackrabbit41]

I'm getting a brass bushing made today. Hopefully I'll have the tranny in tomorrow

[Jackrabbit41]

Use the crossmember from the Cherokee.

What flywheel do I use? Cherokee or Comanche?

[87MJTIM]

Keep the Renix flywheel.  (Renix = 87 - 90 Jeep 4.0L engines.)

[Jackrabbit41]

Keep the Renix flywheel. (Renix = 87 - 90 Jeep 4.0L engines.)

Any advice on how to tighten bolts without having it spin?

[87MJTIM]

You could get a flywheel holding tool like this:

 

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/lil-23800?seid=srese1&gclid=Cj0KEQjwgeuuBRCiwpD0hP3Cg4kBEiQAHflm1jxrTwCHjbWuRRyri80lMSVZDOftN8anXcgFJk1q8BcaAi-t8P8HAQ

 

I'm sure you could find one at an auto parts stores or tool rentals.

 

A less expensive option (ie cheap) is to place a box end wrench (3/4" I think) on the front of the engine crank.  Place so that as the engine turns the wrench wedges up against the fan clutch axle.  (Maybe stick a piece of wood between the two.) This will stop the crank from turning more.  You will need to back the engine back some to relieve pressure on the wrench when you are done.  I did this when I swapped my CJ7 trans.

[1987Comanche]

You can use an impact wrench if you're careful with it. Start with the lowest setting, tighten in the criss-cross pattern per FSM, and move the impact wrench to the next setting.  The 4.0 flywheel is beefy enough that you can't really hurt it. 

 

  Did you have your flywheel resurfaced?  Also did you soak the bronze bushing in motor oil so it had a chance to aborb oil?

[Jackrabbit41]

You can use an impact wrench if you're careful with it. Start with the lowest setting, tighten in the criss-cross pattern per FSM, and move the impact wrench to the next setting. The 4.0 flywheel is beefy enough that you can't really hurt it.

 

Did you have your flywheel resurfaced? Also did you soak the bronze bushing in motor oil so it had a chance to aborb oil?

No for both but I asked a mechanic friend and he just said to pack it with grease. I bought about the flywheel thing but mine is in perfect condition so I just left it alone but maybe I should.

[Jackrabbit41]

You could get a flywheel holding tool like this:

 

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/lil-23800?seid=srese1&gclid=Cj0KEQjwgeuuBRCiwpD0hP3Cg4kBEiQAHflm1jxrTwCHjbWuRRyri80lMSVZDOftN8anXcgFJk1q8BcaAi-t8P8HAQ

 

I'm sure you could find one at an auto parts stores or tool rentals.

 

A less expensive option (ie cheap) is to place a box end wrench (3/4" I think) on the front of the engine crank. Place so that as the engine turns the wrench wedges up against the fan clutch axle. (Maybe stick a piece of wood between the two.) This will stop the crank from turning more. You will need to back the engine back some to relieve pressure on the wrench when you are done. I did this when I swapped my CJ7 trans.

So I got everything in, now I need to start pulling the hydraulic line and clutch pedal off the Cherokee. One thing I noticed is that the Comanche electrical plugs much different then the cherokee electrical plugs. What do I do about that ?