Jackrabbit41 Posted August 20, 2015 Share Posted August 20, 2015 This weekend and next Monday and Tuesday are my last few days off so those 4 days I'm going to use to do the tranny swap. I got the tranny out last week and this week I've been buying some parts. I've got a new clutch, main seal and a rear seal (I think it's something like that). The Napa guy said the clutch came with a TOB and a pilot bearing, so hopefully that's true. I've never done anything like this so other then the clutch I have no idea where or what I need to do. Where are the seals and how do put them in? Where are the 2 bearings I listed above and how do I put those in? Does the clutch just bolt on or what? Thanks If you can pics would be nice. I've watched some videos but will confused on where and what stuff is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jackrabbit41 Posted August 20, 2015 Author Share Posted August 20, 2015 Also, the clutch I got is for the cherokee, is that right or should I return it and get the one for the comanche? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87MJTIM Posted August 20, 2015 Share Posted August 20, 2015 For the pilot bearing (PB), you can rent a PB puller along with a slide hammer. The rental is free as long as you return the parts. To drive in the new PB, you will need a punch the size of the PB. I used a cheap spark plug socket the proper size. Just pound it in. To install the clutch disk and pressure plate, be sure to use the disk centering tool. It come with most clutch kits. When you attach the pressure plate be sure to tighten the bolts in a star pattern. As you do this, make sure the disk has not moved from position. If it has moved, you will NEVER get the trans to line up. You will need to loosen the pressure plate and start again. (Ask me how I know. :doh: ) The clutch is the same for both MJ and XJ as long as it matches the year of the trans. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1987Comanche Posted August 20, 2015 Share Posted August 20, 2015 Input and output shaft seals for the AX15 or rear main for the 4.0? The output shaft seal is easy, the input shaft seal requires removing the front bearing retainer and driving the new seal to a certain depth. It's not hard but you want to be precise when you install the new seal. I greased the input shaft up so I could verify the seal contact area before I coated the front bearing retainer with RTV. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jackrabbit41 Posted August 20, 2015 Author Share Posted August 20, 2015 So after so looking around, i know where the TOB goes, and i think i know where the rear main seal is (behind the pressure plate and flywheel right? that general area), but i don't have a clue where that little pilot bearing goes or this other little hard feeling plastic oil seal goes. also does the t case take the same fluid as the tranny or what? and is the t case out of this 95 cherokee i have a 231? thanks all Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1987Comanche Posted August 20, 2015 Share Posted August 20, 2015 You have to drop the pan to change the rear main. Much easier with the trans out of the truck. Pilot bearing is pressed in the crank. Not sure what the other seal is. Do you have a pic? There's a lot of discussion on oil for the AX15. Everyone agrees that straight gear oil is bad for the synchros (eats the brass). I run synthetic 10W-30 with a bottle of Lucas and have no issues. The other common choice is Redline m/t oil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87MJTIM Posted August 20, 2015 Share Posted August 20, 2015 Replace rear main seal on youtube bleepinjeep: Some other guy: Replace clutch on youtube - almost 2 hrs, so make some popcorn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jackrabbit41 Posted August 20, 2015 Author Share Posted August 20, 2015 Replace rear main seal on youtube bleepinjeep: Some other guy: Replace clutch on youtube - almost 2 hrs, so make some popcorn Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jackrabbit41 Posted August 20, 2015 Author Share Posted August 20, 2015 You have to drop the pan to change the rear main. Much easier with the trans out of the truck. Pilot bearing is pressed in the crank. Not sure what the other seal is. Do you have a pic? There's a lot of discussion on oil for the AX15. Everyone agrees that straight gear oil is bad for the synchros (eats the brass). I run synthetic 10W-30 with a bottle of Lucas and have no issues. The other common choice is Redline m/t oil. I got oil for the tranny but do I use the same for the t case? Also do I just fill them up until it comes out of the hole? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87MJTIM Posted August 20, 2015 Share Posted August 20, 2015 The NP231 take automatic transmission fluid (ATF) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jackrabbit41 Posted August 20, 2015 Author Share Posted August 20, 2015 The NP231 take automatic transmission fluid (ATF) Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jackrabbit41 Posted August 20, 2015 Author Share Posted August 20, 2015 So this is my plan for the swap. If anyone sees anything I need to add or change please tell me. I'm just trying to be as ready as I can for the swap this weekend. 1. Replace TOB 2 pull slave and master from parts vehicle 3. Get linkage out and brackets from parts vehicle 4. Remove driveline from comanche 5. Pull the clutch and a throng else that's in the way of the pilot bearing 6. Remove oil pan and replace that gasket and the rear main seal. Then put it back on 7. Put on new clutch and pilot bearing and whatever else is with the clutch 8. Put in linkage 9. Put in master and slave and pedal 10. Put in ax15 11. Put on t case (or should I do the tranny and t case at the same time already together?) 12. Put on crossmember and drives shafts 13. Put on shifter and boots. 14. Put in fluids (or should o do that before hand) 15.All done, no problems good to go (: (I wish) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jackrabbit41 Posted August 20, 2015 Author Share Posted August 20, 2015 So this is my plan for the swap. If anyone sees anything I need to add or change please tell me. I'm just trying to be as ready as I can for the swap this weekend. 1. Replace TOB 2 pull slave and master from parts vehicle 3. Get linkage out and brackets from parts vehicle 4. Remove driveline from comanche 5. Pull the clutch and a throng else that's in the way of the pilot bearing 6. Remove oil pan and replace that gasket and the rear main seal. Then put it back on 7. Put on new clutch and pilot bearing and whatever else is with the clutch 8. Put in linkage 9. Put in master and slave and pedal 10. Put in ax15 11. Put on t case (or should I do the tranny and t case at the same time already together?) 12. Put on crossmember and drives shafts 13. Put on shifter and boots. 14. Put in fluids (or should o do that before hand) 15.All done, no problems good to go (: (I wish) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87MJTIM Posted August 20, 2015 Share Posted August 20, 2015 So this is my plan for the swap. If anyone sees anything I need to add or change please tell me. I'm just trying to be as ready as I can for the swap this weekend. 1. Replace TOB 2 pull slave and master from parts vehicle 3. Get linkage out and brackets from parts vehicle 4. Remove driveline from comanche 5. Pull the clutch and a throng else that's in the way of the pilot bearing 6. Remove oil pan and replace that gasket and the rear main seal. Then put it back on 7. Put on pilot bearing and new clutch and pilot bearing and whatever else is with the clutch 8. Put in linkage 9. Put in master and slave and pedal 10. Put in ax15 10a. Put on slave cylinder 11. Put on t case (or should I do the tranny and t case at the same time already together? I suggest doing them separately. Doing both together is HEAVY.) 12. Put on crossmember and drives shafts 13. Put on shifter and boots. 14. Put in fluids (or should o do that before hand) You can fill the trans from the shift tower before installing the shifter. 15.All done, no problems good to go (: (I wish) See changes above Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jackrabbit41 Posted August 20, 2015 Author Share Posted August 20, 2015 So this is my plan for the swap. If anyone sees anything I need to add or change please tell me. I'm just trying to be as ready as I can for the swap this weekend. 1. Replace TOB 2 pull slave and master from parts vehicle 3. Get linkage out and brackets from parts vehicle 4. Remove driveline from comanche 5. Pull the clutch and a throng else that's in the way of the pilot bearing 6. Remove oil pan and replace that gasket and the rear main seal. Then put it back on 7. Put on pilot bearing and new clutch and pilot bearing and whatever else is with the clutch 8. Put in linkage 9. Put in master and slave and pedal 10. Put in ax15 10a. Put on slave cylinder 11. Put on t case (or should I do the tranny and t case at the same time already together? I suggest doing them separately. Doing both together is HEAVY.) 12. Put on crossmember and drives shafts 13. Put on shifter and boots. 14. Put in fluids (or should o do that before hand) You can fill the trans from the shift tower before installing the shifter. 15.All done, no problems good to go (: (I wish) See changes above Thanks and how much fluid should I put in the tranny? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87MJTIM Posted August 20, 2015 Share Posted August 20, 2015 AX15 ~3.5 qts 3.27 NP231 ~1 qt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87MJTIM Posted August 20, 2015 Share Posted August 20, 2015 For replacing RMS http://comancheclub.com/topic/45246-rear-main-seal/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jackrabbit41 Posted August 21, 2015 Author Share Posted August 21, 2015 Does anyone have torque specs for the clutch bolts? A mechanic at work told me I should get those Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87MJTIM Posted August 21, 2015 Share Posted August 21, 2015 23 ft lbs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jackrabbit41 Posted August 21, 2015 Author Share Posted August 21, 2015 23 ft lbs Ok thanks. That seems low but I don't know much Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87MJTIM Posted August 21, 2015 Share Posted August 21, 2015 I got that from a Jeep service manual. I thought it was low, too. I did some more googling and found from 27 to 40 for the PRESSURE PLATE. The flywheel is 110 lbs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jackrabbit41 Posted August 21, 2015 Author Share Posted August 21, 2015 I got that from a Jeep service manual. I thought it was low, too. I did some more googling and found from 27 to 40 for the PRESSURE PLATE. The flywheel is 110 lbs. Thanks and for the pilot bearing, should I get one that fits the cherokee I have or one for my comanche? I already have one that came with the clutch but I'm not sure what to use. I've heard different things in what fits Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87MJTIM Posted August 21, 2015 Share Posted August 21, 2015 I believe your trans is from a 95. The pilot bushing that came with the clutch should fit. Try sliding it over the tip of the trans input shaft. It should slide on with no slack. Be sure to soak it in oil over night before installing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jackrabbit41 Posted August 22, 2015 Author Share Posted August 22, 2015 I believe your trans is from a 95. The pilot bushing that came with the clutch should fit. Try sliding it over the tip of the trans input shaft. It should slide on with no slack. Be sure to soak it in oil over night before installing. Never heard of that before, what does that do? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87MJTIM Posted August 22, 2015 Share Posted August 22, 2015 Sorry. I read your response again. Bearings get greased. Bushing get soaked in oil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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