dkmcgowan Posted August 7, 2015 Posted August 7, 2015 I drilled out the top hole to 3/8, marked where it was, put it into a vice, put in a tight bolt, and started hammering on it. It just bent the tab completely... i see no way this tab would budge. any suggestions? I feel I'm about to damage a brand new OEM mopar CPS sensor :(
dkmcgowan Posted August 7, 2015 Author Posted August 7, 2015 I used some vice grips to bend the tab back... I was putting it in the vice not the right way, figured it out... Also, I had to use my biggest hammer to move it the first time, hitting it really hard... You must hit it really straight and be careful or you will bend it... I think I got it right now. Also, I added a photo of my measurement, which is 3/8, or 12/32 with the ruler I'm using. It looks like cruiser pushed his even further up, but I stuck with what he wrote and 3/8.
cruiser54 Posted August 7, 2015 Posted August 7, 2015 Metal bracket loose in the vise a bit with the plastic part just resting on top of the vise.
ParadiseMJ Posted August 8, 2015 Posted August 8, 2015 I've done the mod on my XJ and MJ and never felt I had to whack it hard. I just tapped it with a dowel and slid it over, then put my thumb on the inside edge when tightening the inboard bolt.
dkmcgowan Posted August 8, 2015 Author Posted August 8, 2015 I've done the mod on my XJ and MJ and never felt I had to whack it hard. I just tapped it with a dowel and slid it over, then put my thumb on the inside edge when tightening the inboard bolt. I had to nail it once to get it to initially move. I had my small hammer and had to go get a larger one, but once it moved once, it was easy to adjust.
HOrnbrod Posted August 8, 2015 Posted August 8, 2015 I know this mod is supposed to advance the timing a few degrees, but why did you feel it necessary to do so? Also, has anyone checked the timing with a light before and after to see how many degrees it actually advances?
dkmcgowan Posted August 8, 2015 Author Posted August 8, 2015 I know this mod is supposed to advance the timing a few degrees, but why did you feel it necessary to do so? Also, has anyone checked the timing with a light before and after to see how many degrees it actually advances? In the end it did not help my problem, but I'm having hard start issues and low/rough idle... I have just been trying things... I marked it and could put it back if I wanted too. It didn't seem to hurt anything and it seems to be running a little better possibly. I plan to replace the CTS tomorrow and try that, then possibly use a fuel gauge and replace the fuel pump, and clean IAC...
cruiser54 Posted August 8, 2015 Posted August 8, 2015 Gives it a bit more zip. We Renix guys have knock sensors to compensate for any potential ping.
HOrnbrod Posted August 8, 2015 Posted August 8, 2015 Also, has anyone checked the timing with a light before and after to see how many degrees it actually advances? Huh?
cruiser54 Posted August 8, 2015 Posted August 8, 2015 Also, has anyone checked the timing with a light before and after to see how many degrees it actually advances? You can't tell. The reason is that the CPS is fooling the ECU.
HOrnbrod Posted August 8, 2015 Posted August 8, 2015 Also, has anyone checked the timing with a light before and after to see how many degrees it actually advances? You can't tell. The reason is that the CPS is fooling the ECU. The timing light measures the pulse fire on #1 cylinder based on TDC. Don't matter what happens before it gets there. So, no one has bothered to do a before and after timing test?
cruiser54 Posted August 8, 2015 Posted August 8, 2015 Also, has anyone checked the timing with a light before and after to see how many degrees it actually advances? You can't tell. The reason is that the CPS is fooling the ECU. The timing light measures the pulse fire on #1 cylinder based on TDC. Don't matter what happens before it gets there. So, no one has bothered to do a before and after timing test? Gotcha. I'm referring to what the factory tester sees.
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