dreaminbohemian Posted June 16, 2015 Share Posted June 16, 2015 Just bought my second manche three weeks ago to replace the rusted out death trap that was my first. When I bought it I had one symptom of transmission issues. After using reverse I would shift into first and apparently would not seat entirely because as I began to let the clutch out there would be a jarring thud and the trans would kick out of gear. As I have been driving it a few more symptoms have appeared. The first gear thud became increasingly more frequent, it would grind a LOT trying to get it into reverse. I bought and filled up the trans with 75w-90 lucas oil, it took a bottle and change. I don't seem any change for the better. Now sometimes (I believe after highway driving) it is very difficult if not impossible to get into gears. You can hold it half way into gear and try to rpm match but it would still require a fair amount of pressure, though there is no grinding when it does engage. I just pulled into the lot for my office, had to stop on the very steep incline up to the lot, struggled to get it into gear, pulled over the hump, had to two point it into a space and after coming to a stop after the first point could not get it into any gear, reverse or otherwise. I bought fluid for the clutch a few days ago but turns out it was full and when you remove the lid and pump the clutch there are no bubbles (as someone suggested in a different jeep forum) What is recommended? I don't have a lot of money right now and the 5 speed in my 2.5l works great. sould I just swap them till I can get a new trans? is it something simple and stupid I am overlooking? if I do drop the tranny to fix or replace the internal slave cylinder is there a conversion to external slave? I have been reading a lot but I am in dire straights now Thanks guys 90' pioneer 4.0 with the ax-15 internal slave '88 2.5l with the aw-5? donnor truck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Megadan Posted June 16, 2015 Share Posted June 16, 2015 Sounds to me like your clutch is not engaging/disengaging fully. This would defintiely cause many of the issues you are having. Conversion to external slave will require a bellhousing, lever, throwout bearing, and slave cylinder and hose from clutch master to said slave. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dreaminbohemian Posted June 16, 2015 Author Share Posted June 16, 2015 Sounds like if I can hobble till a grab a lever and bellhousing from a pick and pull I should do the conversion. I should just replace my clutch while I am in there (depending on wear but I am guessing it is bad) Do I rebuild the master and slave or should I just buy new ones? Go ahead and buy the throwout bearing or pick and pull that as well? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Megadan Posted June 16, 2015 Share Posted June 16, 2015 You could use old parts, but honestly I would just invest in new ones. Parts of unknown condition are always a gamble, but sometimes you end up lucking out. I think it would really come down to your budget. As for clutch master and slave, I purchased a complete pre-bled assembly with both units and hydraulic line already assembled. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dreaminbohemian Posted June 16, 2015 Author Share Posted June 16, 2015 Thinking about it, is my slave cylinder likely to go out before my clutch when replace them together? If they are going to wear at similar rates then I don't see a great advantage in converting my ax15 to external slave cylinder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Megadan Posted June 16, 2015 Share Posted June 16, 2015 Converting to external slave is more beneficial for servicing the slave cylinder itself when it goes bad. You can just unbolt it and replace it vs. having to drop the transmission. If you do replace the internal unit, at least make sure you get a good quality unit so you won't have to go repeating yourself too soon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dreaminbohemian Posted June 16, 2015 Author Share Posted June 16, 2015 I understand that it is easier to service I am asking how quickly they wear, if they wear at a similar rate to the clutch I can just replace the slave every time I replace the clutch since I have to drop the tranny for that anyway Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dreaminbohemian Posted June 16, 2015 Author Share Posted June 16, 2015 But if there are three slaves for every clutch then I want to convert to external Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockfrog Posted June 16, 2015 Share Posted June 16, 2015 Sounds to me like your clutch is not engaging/disengaging fully. This would defintiely cause many of the issues you are having. Conversion to external slave will require a bellhousing, lever, throwout bearing, and slave cylinder and hose from clutch master to said slave. You will also need the input bearing retainer for the external style throw out bearing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Megadan Posted June 16, 2015 Share Posted June 16, 2015 Lots of people tend to convert to external because they tend to leak and fail before the clutches go out. That's why I recommended getting a GOOD one if you plan on sticking with internal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87Warrior Posted June 17, 2015 Share Posted June 17, 2015 Your AX15 is doing the same thing my AX15 did in my YJ when the synchronizers went bad after using the wrong kind of gear oil (GL5=WRONG). It got so bad I would have to shut the Jeep off to get it into 1st. Try using a quality 10W-30 synthetic motor oil or something like the Redline MT/MTL fluid and see if the symptoms start to go away. I would not suggest trying to put the AX5 behind your 4.0L. Since you are low on funds, why not drive the 2.5L truck while fueling the Jeep fund? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Megadan Posted June 17, 2015 Share Posted June 17, 2015 Redline MT-90 is the way to go, but it is a bit hard on the wallet. After breaking in my rebuilt AX15 with Mobile 10w-30 for a few hundred miles I Put in MT-90, and the difference is night and day. The downside is that 4 quarts will run you about $65, or you can spend the same and get 1 gal for $67 and have some extra in case you need to top it off, or for the next oil change. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dreaminbohemian Posted June 17, 2015 Author Share Posted June 17, 2015 so I need to drain the lucas 75w-90 that I just put in it? I have a mechanic friend in town willing to do clutch pressure plate throw out ect but today is his only day. I think we are just gonna pull the trigger and head to my local rent-a-lift and replace all sacrificial parts. I am trying not to drive the 2.5 because it is rusted to the point of being a death trap. No rear breaks, both the main leaves on the springs have snapped and have $#!&ty home depot u bolts holding them together. The thing leans to the drivers side and get a prohibitively heavy vibration at 55mph. Both you Ujoints on the drive shaft have a LOT of play, ect, ect. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Megadan Posted June 17, 2015 Share Posted June 17, 2015 You will want a GL-4 gear oil in that trans. GL5 and GL6 oils have sulfides in them that eat the brass the syncros are made out of. That is why MT-90 or synthetic motor oil is recommended. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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