dreaminbohemian

Bought this truck with rear disk breaks but the parking brake isn’t hooked up. I don’t have anything between the calipers and cable that goes to the cab. I can probably fab up the saddle that connects the left and right to the forward cable but what part am I ordering for the left and right cable assembly? I ordered the oem part and the cable jacket and mounting assembly is much to large for the caliper mount and can’t attach to the lever pictured. Does anyone know what brakes I have and what part I need to get?

I bought this from Pete last year, I had an accident that shredded the lower engine loom and I've been chasing ghosts ever since. A lowner ECU from another club member confirmed that a wire short feed my ECU. I have a new on in now but I am getting no CPS and do spark advance on the "no Strat test' on my REM. I have metered the CPS as the connector, back stabbing both sides and am reading .51-.6V AC when cranking. If I probe C1 to D3 on the ECU connector I am getting .19V AC. If I measure resistance from loom connector to C1 it just keeps dropping to normalize ~0 resistance. Anybody got any ideas?

@JolietJEEP'84 Thanks!

Do you still have that used knock sensor?

Finally got someone else's ECU to test to see if it throws the same errors to the REM and it does not so It looks like it's time to get a new ECU. I am in North Texas

Looks like most all of the current ‘fitting’ o2 sensors that are produced are 4 wire sensors wired to a 3 sensor plug. I have found repeated reports across several forums

I have just realized that the 4th wire may have been pulled out. There is a hole for a 4th wire in the back of the sensor but I assumed that they used the same plug for three and four wire variants

I purchased my truck from Pete Rushbrook Cruiser54 back in November. I had started asking him about it in February but we didn't finish our chat before I hit the road for work. I ran into some trouble and upon inspection the 02 sensor being run is stamped with 1247. It has three wires coming out of the sensor, Red, White, and yellow, then white and yellow are soldered together to a black wire. My loom was ripped off when my speedo cable broke, wrapped around the forward drive shaft and shredded everything. There was no plug left on the o2 sensor. I am curious: 1)Is this a fine 02 sensor to use? I can't find anything on it but 1247 which looks like a GM part but I struggle to find clear info. 2)Do I make it 3 wire again? What pins do the red white and yellow got to?

I finally got back from tour and am trying to get the truck running again. I purchased a loom from a 90 xj installed it. I'm wondering if it's possible that my REM got shorted and is sending faulty reeding because I have replaced the engine loom and am getting the exact same codes. It's starting up and seems to be running fine. One time it was running VERY rough but out side that it seems pretty ok. There are to connectors from the loom that I haven't found their mate to. One single pin connector near the diagnostic ports, and one single pin connector by the firewall near the passenger side of the block. But one looks like it is labeled as 4 w/d switch on a manual.

Thank you so much for this. I rebuilt the loom, connected the CTS and Knock sensor (but not the o2 because it is a 3 wire that was soldered together into a 2 wire and I'm waiting to hear from the PO to see why.) It started up, I think faster than it had before but was running rough and idling low. The engine would shake the care at 2500rpm a little bit. I have an REM and I got the following codes: REM Codes: Baro Pressure Low Bat Voltage Low Distributr Sync ECU Codes Injector 3 Short Injector 4 Short Injector 6 Short Injector 2 Open Injector 3 Open Injector 4 Open Injector 5 Open Fuel Not Primed ICM Signal Open One injector connector is slashed but I separated them so they definitely aren't shorting for my test. Any help on trouble shooting this would be greatly appreciated

Looking for someone with a Renix injector loom on their bench to send me measurements and photos from the last injector plug to the TPS, knock, and O2 sensor. Mine got sheered off when the speedo cable and evap line wrapped around my drive shaft and the plugs are no where to be found.

I live pretty close to a Summit racing warehouse and their outlet is an opportunity for some really good deals. Message me if you want me to grab something for you and put it in the mail. They do not post any of these items online, you can only get check the shelves in person. I still don't know what all to look for but there were a lot of Dana gears and carriers. I am uploading photos of tags so you can look up the info

Do I need to worry about the shield on the knock sensor being completely disintegrated? I know from low voltage installation wiring that shields are only effective if they drain to ground, but since it has the drain wire even pieces of the foil would drain to ground. I could potentially rewrap the exposed section but given how brittle it is in this 16" I imagine it is ribbons in the rest of the loom. Edit: It’s home now and I had 10 mins to look at it before going out of town again. Speedo cable chewed up seals on both ends of the front drive shaft. Took a bit to get it untwisted from the little collar on the output of the T-case. It is still connected to the trans and both ends are ripped so it didn't come loose per se; it either broke in the middle or the metal hose started the chaos. I just assumed speedo because of my needle bounce. The metal and rubber hose has a barb fitting on one end so it’s not brakes or trans cooler. Has a crimped on hose clamp at the transition from hose to pipe. PO put in a newer dana 30 because I don't have CAD so it isn't vacuum lines for that. There is a T fitting above the gas tank with and open stub of hose but it doesn’t look like it would fit the barb on the metal line. Wires are definitely O2, knock, and CTS. Plugs are gone, knock sensor looks cracked. It looks like this was mad enough to make dents in the oil pan and the transmission tunnel before I got it pulled over off the highway. Looks like I’ll be doing a major overhaul a lot sooner than I expected.

In a tangental question is there anything else in that harness line running down the left side of the engine that would prevent it from running? My speedo cable came loose and wrapped around my front drive shaft, the part of the harness that goes down the drivers side of the engine was severed. It would turn over but not start. I can see at least 4 wires in my poor photo but the vehicle is 90 mins away. If it will run without the O2 sensor what else was cut in that loom?

Do you know what is one that loom with the downstream 02 sensor? Made 25 calls so far an no luck on full looms from 86 or 87, now I'm just trying to figure out what looms would also work to splice in

Driving out of town my truck broke down. It was the middle of the night and I had to get to Houston for a job the next morning. I took some pictures and my friends picked me up, but they aren’t very useful. It looks like my speedometer came unhooked, wrapped around my foward drive shaft, began to whip around and severed my engine loom going down that side of the engine. I can see that it connects to the downstream O2 sensor, but what else? There is also a thin metal tubing wrapped around the drive shaft with a little bit of hose on it. Does anyone have a auto salvage recommended location. Truck is left in a parking lot in Huntsville. I am in Houston TX. 1)What the ~1/8” diameter metal tube wrapped around my driveshaft is from. Is an 87 4.0 AW4 a mechanical oil pressure gauge? 2) I am gonna be able to cut a partial wire loom from a junkyard or if I need to pull the whole thing. The ends of the loom are nowhere to be seen. 3) Input seal from front diff is wrecked from the cable wrapping foward and into the seal. Can I drive home 250 miles in RWD with whatever oil I can keep in it or do I need to pull and replace that seal first if I can get it running? I have one at home that I was going to replace when I did the forward U joints but I can just buy another if I need to.

I bought this truck in November. Diff covers were leaking so today I pulled and scraped and snapped some pictures while I was in there. 3.73 gears and 32” tires Aussie Locker. Rear diff oil was two tone black and blue/grey. Ran a magnet through the catch pan and found some small metal shaving but nothing large. No visible chipping in the gears but I didn’t jack the truck up and roll through. I know, but I was in a hurry and loosing daylight. Front diff oil had a brown color and seemed thicker. Less metal shaving. Is this enough metal to be concerned with? I’m supposed to drive 300 miles tomorrow night. Pictures are (1) rear diff oil (2) rear diff (3) metal from rear (4) front diff (5) metal from front The magnet is 3/4” in diameter

I guess it’s worth asking besides final alignment is there any knowledge besides turning wrenches to lift/suspension/ and driveline systems? I have rubs and knocks and clanks but if it’s just as simple as describing my set up in here and taking advice and replacing parts and bushings I can do all that.

I'm curious if anyone has a recommendation on a shop or mechanic in the DFW area. I just bought this 87 from cruiser54 in Arizona and drove it home to Texas. I do plan on doing a lot of wrenching on this myself but I'm looking for someone to do a general inspection, help me create a timeline maintenance and repair and preform some upgrades while I'm traveling for work. This is my only vehicle so having it up on blocks while I poke around and figure stuff out for two weeks isn't an option. This is my 4th 'manche and I've done clutch, cps, tps, and transmission rebuild before in the past. Things on my list: Tires are too big for the lift, I need to cut fenders (which I don't prefer) get smaller tires (would love to trade) or see if bump stops will fix it There is a metallic grind underneath my feet on the drivers, maybe front drive shaft Lost the u joint on the rear diff on the way home, parking lot repair and made it home but probably need to do the other 3 ASAP Thanks for all yall's insight and I'm happy to back behind the wheel of an MJ

I was trying to edit my own pin to reflect my move from Denton to Dallas and I think I edited someone else's. Also It stacks all the pins in the same town and now I can't seem to get mine to edit it

The AX5 in my 89 2.5 locked up in 4th, when we took it apart and the teeth are wrecked on the input shaft. 9728166612

So I recently bought an 88 2.5L from a guy that had put a lot of effort but no money into keeping it running. Cheap aftermarket guage cluster when sensors would fail. Push button light cause the dash lights would cut out every no and again, local bike cable release cause the hood cable broke. Fiberglass and chip board cause the floor rusted through. All that aside it started and ran alright best I could tell. Replaced the ignition system(starter relay, coil, cap, rotor, plugs, wires) Drove it for about 1000 miles then went after some other repairs. Traded the ax5 from my 89 that is a parts truck now for the ax4 that was in it. Replaced some faulty wires, Seemed like it was running well, well enough. Charged up the AC (which he wired a direct switch to the compressor for cause I guess the climate control failed.) Drove it home from my buddies where we were working on it. I was sleep deprived and loosing it on my hour drive home, made it home safe, but only just barely. I recall that it began to run rough toward the end of my journey but not much more than that. I leave it for a couple of days as I had things that necessitated my GFs car instead of my own. I finally have time to look at it. I jump it because I left the compressor engauged and drained the battery, and my buddy yells at me that its shooting oil everywhere, the sending line from the aftermarket oil pressure gauge had been melted through and was shooting a perfect jet of oil up and into my hood which was deflecting it in every direction. This is my best deduction. The AC line burst (evidence of this is present) spewing Freeon and compressor oil all over my engine bay. It contained(or rather is) a solvent that spent the weekend eating through all kinds of plastics and rubbers in my engine bay including: The oil pressure line The black plastic cable path that contain every engine wire the boots to my brand new spark plug wires stripped the paint from my firewall and hood and left corrosion/aluminum salt built up on: alternator ac clutch bell for the fan water pump starter relay coil pack fusible link wires!?! What should I do? This truck was supposed to be a minimal amount of work while I cut the front off of my 89 rust bucket to fix the 90 4.0 that I t-boned a lady in. I have a 1hr 50 mile commute Cash is tight now but I am also trying to improve this as I go. The 4.0 is supposed to be my daily driver and I would like to have the 2.5 as a second little runner truck for employees incase they need to take some equipment across town, but having employees is a year away.

Shop says I need a new steering column. I have seen the write ups about tightening it but it's in three shop and I am working 70 hour weeks so I just want to give them the new one they are asking for. Anybody have one in the Dallas/fort worth area? I have an 89 4cyl with a four speed

I have come across stuff in the past while trying to read on other topics but am having trouble finding info now. I am curious about the performance and reliability of the 2.8 v6. I own a 2.5 that is a rust bucket (first jeep) and then I got a nice '90 4.0 but got in a wreck 3 months after buying it from a club member. I have been in a loaner vehicle for 6 months and have finally had the time to mess with the 4.0, one shop says they would scrap it, too much damage so I started shopping and I am seeing alot more v6 up for sale then ever before. I can stumble through most engine maintenance or repair, but am only mediocre at diagnosis. Is the v6 going to require a lot of attention? Is it a decent compromise of gas millage and torque output? Is it a rats nest I should avoid? This will be my daily driver, but may keep the 4.0 to Frankenstein into something, as the engine still runs, and the front axle looks to be in the same place I will take personal opinion or you can direct me to articles if someone has written them. Cheers guys, thanks for your time

Thanks John, sorry for the short life I showed it, looking at trying maybe to take the front clip off of my rust bucket. My game plans are taking me a bunch of deffernt directions, not sure what the best move is