ggcnash Posted April 20, 2015 Author Share Posted April 20, 2015 Also has new ignition MSD I picked up cheap from jegs. I saw it on the firewall. Was this on your old 91 when running? If not, bypass it if you can easily. That's a fan controller, the MSD blaster coil is a stock replacement? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggcnash Posted April 20, 2015 Author Share Posted April 20, 2015 I guess I should have called it an ignition coil? http://www.streetsideauto.com/p/msd-8228/?utm_source=googlepepla&utm_medium=adword&gclid=CNq90Mn7g8UCFdgQgQodng0Aeg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggcnash Posted April 20, 2015 Author Share Posted April 20, 2015 I will try stock one tomorrow Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted April 20, 2015 Share Posted April 20, 2015 Damn, you didn't say ignition coil. :yes: I had one of those too, put it on new, it lasted a week then died. Since then I've had an Accel coil and it's been good for years. I don't think that's your problem, but throw a different coil on for test purposes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggcnash Posted April 20, 2015 Author Share Posted April 20, 2015 Damn, you didn't say ignition coil. :yes: I had one of those too, put it on new, it lasted a week then died. Since then I've had an Accel coil and it's been good for years. I don't think that's your problem, but throw a different coil on for test purposes.I will post more pics of process tomorrow too, maybe it will help more, any suggestions are truly appreciated I'm stumped. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggcnash Posted April 20, 2015 Author Share Posted April 20, 2015 I would like to add there are new Bosch 703's 4 hole injectors in the fuel rail too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted April 20, 2015 Share Posted April 20, 2015 Wrong flex plate.91 flex plate thought of that too, also thought about orientation but read somewhere if it's on its rite because it will only bolt up 1 way? The flex plate only bolts on one way, but that only addresses orientation/indexing. There's still the fact that a Renix flex plate won't work with an HO CPS and ignition, and an HO flex plate won't work with a Renix CPS and ignition. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted April 20, 2015 Share Posted April 20, 2015 Well I pulled dizzy and plug #1 as described again and went through TDC process as described went a step further and pulled the valve cover just to make sure and both valves relaxed at TDC the rotor pointing to 5:30 no start I don't have my FSM handy to look it up, but I don't think that's where #1 should be located. IIRC, the #1 spark plug wire should be at approximately 1:00 or 1:30 when looking at the distributor from the passenger side of the engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggcnash Posted April 20, 2015 Author Share Posted April 20, 2015 Well I pulled dizzy and plug #1 as described again and went through TDC process as described went a step further and pulled the valve cover just to make sure and both valves relaxed at TDC the rotor pointing to 5:30 no startI don't have my FSM handy to look it up, but I don't think that's where #1 should be located. IIRC, the #1 spark plug wire should be at approximately 1:00 or 1:30 when looking at the distributor from the passenger side of the engine.I will check FSM when I get home but pretty sure it's 5-5:30 that's where #1 is located I will also check the things HB suggested will post more this evening. Thinking out loud I'm tempted to go back to stock 91 injectors? These are just 4hole Bosch 703s also was thinking could one of the injector plugs be swapped is there a check for this don't think this would be possible how they are layed out from factory it looked to be obvious but dad didn't mark them before he pulled them just a thought, like I said the fashion they are bent from factory it looks correct. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted April 20, 2015 Share Posted April 20, 2015 http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/94-cherokee-4-0-starting-timing-issue-91667/index2/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggcnash Posted April 20, 2015 Author Share Posted April 20, 2015 http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/94-cherokee-4-0-starting-timing-issue-91667/index2/Tried this yesterday mine actually fired and run like crap one tooth back? Couldn't get it to fire a tooth forward or dead on #1? Will try again with pics this evening Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeep Driver Posted April 20, 2015 Share Posted April 20, 2015 Where is the flex plate that was on your truck originally? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggcnash Posted April 21, 2015 Author Share Posted April 21, 2015 K guys got it running thanks a tremendous amount to hornbrod checked 5v reference checked good. Read the link that HB posted but already had it one tooth forward at 5:30 wouldn't crank, but wanted to so I thought why not one more tooth couldn't hurt? Put it at I what I would call 5:45 Sorry no pic just one tooth further fired right up! No codes and purred like a kitten during 20minute break in period at 2k rpm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted April 21, 2015 Share Posted April 21, 2015 Good to hear. :cheers: The early HO distributors are tricky to get in right. Awhile back the sync sensor on my 91 distributor went out (fault code). To change the sync sensor on the 91-93 distributors you have to pull it out, remove the gear and shaft, and tear it completely down. It's a PITA. The 94 and up distributors do not require removal to change the sync sensor, it's all done from the top. I found a reasonably priced NOS 95 distributor and stuck it in (with similar tooth alignment problems as you had), and it runs great. So when you can, grab a newer distributor for a spare from a 94 and up at the yard for easy replacement when (not if) your sync sensor goes out. Also just to verify it's right, you can stick a timing light on #1 and look at the timing marks on the timing chain cover at about 2K RPM. It'll jump around a bit, but the light should be fairly steady @ 14* - 18* BTDC. You can't adjust timing, but at least you can see if the advance signal from the ECU is proper. 94 - 99 distributor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggcnash Posted April 21, 2015 Author Share Posted April 21, 2015 Good to hear. :cheers: The early HO distributors are tricky to get in right. Awhile back the sync sensor on my 91 distributor went out (fault code). To change the sync sensor on the 91-93 distributors you have to pull it out, remove the gear and shaft, and tear it completely down. It's a PITA. The 94 and up distributors do not require removal to change the sync sensor, it's all done from the top. I found a reasonably priced NOS 95 distributor and stuck it in (with similar tooth alignment problems as you had), and it runs great. So when you can, grab a newer distributor for a spare from a 94 and up at the yard for easy replacement when (not if) your sync sensor goes out. Also just to verify it's right, you can stick a timing light on #1 and look at the timing marks on the timing cover at about 2K RPM. It'll jump around a bit, but the light should be fairly steady @ 14* - 18* BTDC. You can't adjust timing, but at least you can see if the advance signal from the ECU is proper. I'll try to get a timing light tomorrow and also be on the lookout for 93-95 distributor thanks again big relief Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggcnash Posted April 21, 2015 Author Share Posted April 21, 2015 Oops 94-95 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted April 21, 2015 Share Posted April 21, 2015 94-99 actually. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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