projectMANCHI Posted October 21, 2014 Share Posted October 21, 2014 Hot D*!# added an additional 4ga. Ground from the firewall to the manifold and PRESTO! The Chief started right up! It took about 30 seconds of running to settle into an idle but then steadied out. I also refreshed the cluster ground and BAM! We have gauges! Pretty sure the temp gauge is not reading properly, the engine seems to be a little hot, so time to get to the flushing and new thermostat. But for now, no leaks at idle and one trip around the driveway. Now to flush the cooling system and change out all the fluids. Very light pedal on brakes. Couldn't have had a better Sunday morning. did your truck crank at all before? mine is at a no start also and wondering if its just the starter or a ground somewhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kickinmule Posted October 21, 2014 Author Share Posted October 21, 2014 @projectMANCHI yes mine would always crank, just had no fire. I can definitely say that if you don't spend a little time on Cruiser's tips, you will be chasing ghosts! I replaced a couple parts thinking they were my culprits when my problem was insufficient ground. The firewall to engine block new ground was my savior. I had spent money and time and frustration on that freakin CPS when it probably didn't need replacing. Also the fuse panel had some corrosion upon inspection. I pulled my gauge fuse and brightened the posts, stuck it back in, removed the ground wire connection under the dash also, brightened it up and replaced it and it fixed my gauges. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kickinmule Posted October 21, 2014 Author Share Posted October 21, 2014 Thanks Backdraft, I'll take you up on that the next wall I hit. The short term list is getting shorter. 1. Brakes 2. Lighting(yea! electrical) turn signals, parking lights, one roll bar spot light so far no response. 3. A/C-heat  I've only driven about a mile and a half but seems like the drive train is functioning properly, good engine response, easily shifts, clutch good but I do have a lot of noise that sounds like it's coming from the catalytic converter. Oh and power steering pump is whining a bit, need to check the level on that one. Still no leaks anywhere! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kickinmule Posted October 24, 2014 Author Share Posted October 24, 2014 Update: Started Comanche yesterday to prep for final coolant flush and refill...water pump makin lots of racket like the bearing is gone. This was expected. Then the leaking began. So the coolant flushing obviously working since it has cleaned up and out enough crud that if there were leaks they will now leak! Removed water pump. Mine was attached to the power steering bracket, so I found it easiest to loosen PS pump bolts, relieve the belt tension by turning the adjustment bolt on the PS pump, remove the serp belt, slide the pump and reservoir to the right and it gives enough room to get at that rear PS bracket bolt that can be overlooked when trying to remove the bracket. I didn't have to remove radiator or either fan. But I did forget to loosen Water pump pulley before removing tension so made that part a little tough. Upon inspection the interior of the block behind water pump looked suprisingly good as did the water pump innards. So pump and hoses next. Also did the C101 cleaning. Bam the Ac/heat controls started working, properly switching to def, vent and heat! Haven't gotten a response from the A/C yet but there is a busted toggle switch in my dash that apparently energizes the A/C. I suppose I could replace it but if anyone knows what would cause someone to repair it this way and if there is a better fix please chime in. Ok that's good for now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kickinmule Posted October 28, 2014 Author Share Posted October 28, 2014 Changed out worn hoses and water pump today. Flushed again and then added coolant. Took the whole gallon then about a quarter to half gallon to get coolant flowing out of the temp sending unit orifice. Rechecked all hoses and clamps, attached battery ground, installed air filter box, installed temp sending unit and rest of vacuum hoses. Said a little prayer and keyed the ignition- Wow! It runs again. Hey and it's pretty d@mn quiet! Still have a bad cat converter making racket but up front is way better than expected. Ran at idle for probably 5-6 minutes and didn't get past 160* can't wait to do an oil change(or 2)! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
projectMANCHI Posted October 29, 2014 Share Posted October 29, 2014 @projectMANCHI yes mine would always crank, just had no fire. I can definitely say that if you don't spend a little time on Cruiser's tips, you will be chasing ghosts! I replaced a couple parts thinking they were my culprits when my problem was insufficient ground. The firewall to engine block new ground was my savior. I had spent money and time and frustration on that freakin CPS when it probably didn't need replacing. Also the fuse panel had some corrosion upon inspection. I pulled my gauge fuse and brightened the posts, stuck it back in, removed the ground wire connection under the dash also, brightened it up and replaced it and it fixed my gauges. my problem was the cluster fuse that controlled the "charging light" without the fuse the alternator would not charge the battery, runs, but not as good as i want, time to rebuild the throttle body and intake and plugs and wires, then maybe a cold air intake? any suggestions   thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kickinmule Posted October 29, 2014 Author Share Posted October 29, 2014 @projectMANCHI glad you got it figured out. On the cold air intake, I have seen engine bay pics here with them installed on the Renix 4.0 but I don't know what mods were done to accommodate them. I think I saw a post relating to it and maybe even a manufacturer link to a bolt on somewhere. Google search time? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kickinmule Posted November 5, 2014 Author Share Posted November 5, 2014 Finally had a few minutes to spend on the MJ today. So decided to change the oil. This will be its first since I got it started. Pulled the plug and watched the chocolate escape! Well at least it was chocolate in color. So spun on a store brand filter and some HD castrol I had went in next. Then I added a couple ounces of (and here is the crazy part) something my mechanic neighbor poured into an empty plastic bottle while saying "you can't get this, only for commercial mechanic shops" but he assured me it was going to do what the sea foam additive claims but better. He said it has improved compression every time he has used it. OK. So fire up the jeep. Run it up to 2000 rpm for 5 minutes and then I drained her again. Not quite as ugly colored this time. Spun on my new wix filter. Proceeded to add a gallon of T6 and as I was putting the cap on the empty oil jug I hear the last of the T6 emptying into the catch pan under the truck...&!%€~%#!!! Forgot something! Drain plugs are great if you use them! So replace drain plug and add the whole other gallon I had left that was supposed to be my top off jug. I'll pick up another one tomorrow. So didn't fire it back up as I'm 2 quarts low. Think I'll go in and pout. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kickinmule Posted November 14, 2014 Author Share Posted November 14, 2014 Ok pulled the Cousin's Cherokee home on a trailer today. It's a '92 Cherokee Laredo 4x4 aw4/np231 d30/d35. 242,xxx miles. Very straight and clean body, interior is not so great but not toast. It's Rollin 31x10.5x15s with less than 20% tread. Lower dash was loose and looks like someone's been tinkering. Engine bay looks good but right off I noticed the front lower exhaust manifold bolt is missing, hmm? So I've got some thinking to do. I still really want to run an auto in my Chief. I know the ba10 is covered in oil but until I put some miles on it I can't say its shot. However, the future called and said it would like to see a 4.5" lift, 33"s, an automatic and a re-gear(4.10 or 4.56) and if possible the 97+ conv. This begs the question- Is it worth trying to mate the '92 aw4/231 with 242,xxx on it to my renix or pass this buggy on and get to lookin for an auto 97+? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kickinmule Posted December 13, 2014 Author Share Posted December 13, 2014 Hello buttons! Â Â Bye bye cranks! Â Â Just had enough time to pull the electric lock and window harness outta the xj and then the drivers side door guts(phew! that's quite the process). Then gutted the drivers side on the MJ! Now gotta go to the Christmas parade! Man tryin to string together a couple hours right now is tough! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kickinmule Posted December 17, 2014 Author Share Posted December 17, 2014 Ok need some help. i swapped the full 4 door window and door lock harness from the xj to the mj. Swapped the power lock actuator and the power window motor into the mj drivers door. Swapped the drivers door switch from the xj into the mj, plugged it in, plugged in the power lead to the fuse panel, gave the buttons a try. Nuthin! So of course I think well both sides must need to be attached. Yeah thats a feasible explanation(thats the way it always works in my head)! so stripped down the passenger side door in the xj and stripped the mj p. door. then instead of installing the motors and guts actually into the door, I just plugged everything in. Oh Yeah this is gonna be cool! Thats what i was hoping. But if I actually thought it was going to work- then why didnt I put it all into the mj door and then plug it in? Because it didn't... So diagnostics:  I have power to the rt. side switch and power to the left side switch(pictured above). I also have power as indicated in pic below, to the window motor connector in both up position and down position.  So can some one give me a clue as to why neither the window motors or the locks are responding when they are receiving power. the drivers side is completely installed but the pass side is laying on the floor board and connected. Should i be posting this in the Tech section? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kickinmule Posted December 17, 2014 Author Share Posted December 17, 2014 window issue posted in Tech. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kickinmule Posted February 10, 2015 Author Share Posted February 10, 2015 Yep grounding the black wire to the body gave me Power Windows! So the motors, harnesses and switches from the '92 xj were an easy swap, even brought over the grey door panels so I'm 2 tone now. I know "pics"! I'll gettem soon. So grounding the harness didn't take care of the door locks I also swapped over, so still working on that. While I had the opportunity I also swapped the A/C controls switch unit from the XJ into the MJ and now that works as well; at least it works when I throw the toggle switch the PO had installed. Swapped in the grey dash bezel from the XJ and I like it better! Excited to have gotten some wrench time in. Hope it won't be long till next episode. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kickinmule Posted February 14, 2015 Author Share Posted February 14, 2015 After studying multiple 92 wiring diagrams for power locks, I found that when you pull a 4 door PW/PL harness from a 92 cherokee and attempt to lay it in and it work with the swapped window and door lock motors, that you have no ground or power to the relays or power to the lock switches. So as previously stated I added the body ground to the black wire in the harness. Then I also added a power from the battery lead to both the Orange/white and Light green wires in the harness. The orange/white is power to the lock switches and the light green is power to the relays that are already wired in to the harness. This finally gave me power locks using the factory 92 harness installed in my 88 MJ. No big deal right! What is odd is that the harness, when it is in the donor XJ, must pickup ground and the 2 power circuits somewhere else in the vehicle, because it doesn't get them between the fuse box, left front door and the cross body harness to the right front door. Possibly in the rear quarter panel or rear hatch, at this point I don't care. Can't quit hitting the buttons now! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kickinmule Posted February 15, 2015 Author Share Posted February 15, 2015 So installed the lower dash panel out of the donor that had the dash speakers and courtesy lamps, and wired them in. Now the factory radio sounds a better version of not horrible. Oh yeah thru the Rockford fosgate upgraded lift gate speakers into the door panels, so it really isn't that bad. Put all my kick panels back in after routing all the new door wiring harness. Then pulled the overhead console outta the cherokee. It was missing most of its fabric, but with a little fab work to shorten it, I think it'll make a great addition! I'll test the compass and temp display before I go to far. Gettin all my free stuff done till I'm ready to throw some HEC at it. HEC=hardearnedcash Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kickinmule Posted February 15, 2015 Author Share Posted February 15, 2015 Anyone tried cutting down a cherokee headliner to fit an MJ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kickinmule Posted February 15, 2015 Author Share Posted February 15, 2015 pics of the grey/silver dash and the grey door panels with the pw/pl yippee! Â probably gonna swap out this pass side glass with the cherokee glass instead of trying to get the bad tint job off. but not lookin forward to getin into the door again! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kickinmule Posted February 18, 2015 Author Share Posted February 18, 2015 Swapped out the tired and broken black grill and headlamp surrounds for the chrome ones from the XJ. Had to mod the 92 xj light surrounds a tiny bit to get them to retro fit.  Before  After  Also ordered a new washer fluid pump as the original wouldn't do nuthin(Texan for ain't workin). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kickinmule Posted February 18, 2015 Author Share Posted February 18, 2015 And I did straighten up that fairing under the bumper after i took the pics. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackBeast Posted February 18, 2015 Share Posted February 18, 2015 Looking good man! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kickinmule Posted February 19, 2015 Author Share Posted February 19, 2015 Picked up the washer pump and installed it. Still no pumping so pulled the wiper/washer module from the XJ and swapped it in and now the wipers are intermittent and the fluid pump squirts! Yes, the other pump was bad. I'm one front tire and a cat/converter/muffler away from an inspection sticker I believe!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackBeast Posted February 19, 2015 Share Posted February 19, 2015 Has to bite! I live in Arkansas. NO inspections thank God.. and emissions like California would be hell! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackBeast Posted February 19, 2015 Share Posted February 19, 2015 Stupid smart phone..I hope I fixed this triple post lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackBeast Posted February 19, 2015 Share Posted February 19, 2015 Almost ready congrats! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kickinmule Posted February 19, 2015 Author Share Posted February 19, 2015 Wow beast a posting hat trick! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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