Stalling Out

[cruiser54]

It's hard to assess your mechanical prowess from here. 

 

It's not difficult for a seasoned mechanic. I would modify the sensor before installing it per my tips, and provide the mechanic with a photo of the original wire harness routing as you can find in my Technical Photo link below. 

[kook911]

I have no trouble turning a wrench and folling directions. All I did was follow what you wrote. I found that my cps is at a reading of .2. From what you wrote it should be changed out. Is there a write up on how to modify the sensor?

[cruiser54]

Post 7.

[1989 Eliminator]

well here is a great thread and has about everything you can imagine about idle and hesitation issues. Its a long thread but a lot of good information, pictures, and how-to-do instructions.

 

http://comancheclub.com/topic/42581-renix-dead-spot-and-idiling-low/

[Eagle]

I have no trouble turning a wrench and folling directions. All I did was follow what you wrote. I found that my cps is at a reading of .2. From what you wrote it should be changed out. Is there a write up on how to modify the sensor?

A bad (or marginal) CPS will cause stalling whenever it doesn't send a strong enough signal to the ECU. It is NOT in any way connected to the clutch, so a bad CPS would not routinely cause stalling only when the clutch peddle is depressed, and at no other times.

[kook911]

So the only thing that it can be then is the clutch is not disengaging or the pressure plate is rubbing somewhere. I don't know maybe the slave is going out. Bc at this point I am out of ideals of what it can be and that seems like the only thing left. Thanks to all that is helping.

[gte636p]

If the clutch was not disengaging or the pressure plate rubbing you wouldn't be able to easily shift out of gear.  Or, really, start the car without rolling forward a little bit.  I get that you're looking for a load on the engine, but if that's the case then it should stall while pulling as well.

 

With that said, I have nothing to really offer.  I'm struggling through an intermittent problem myself.

[kook911]

OK I am just updating this thread as I found the problem and I hate reading threads that match my problem but there was never a answer.  I did a search on here with just the word stall and read that the common problem was either the IAC or the TPS.  So I went and bought the Idle air control sensor and install it.  As of right now it has solved my problem and the truck does not stall out.  I took it around the block and ran like it should.  So hope this helps someone else.  

[cruiser54]

OK I am just updating this thread as I found the problem and I hate reading threads that match my problem but there was never a answer.  I did a search on here with just the word stall and read that the common problem was either the IAC or the TPS.  So I went and bought the Idle air control sensor and install it.  As of right now it has solved my problem and the truck does not stall out.  I took it around the block and ran like it should.  So hope this helps someone else.  

Did you do this beforehand?

 

Courtesy of TJWalker:

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The Idle Air Control (IAC) is mounted on the back of the throttle body. (front for 87-90) The valve controls the idle speed of the engine by controlling the amount of air flowing through the air control passage. It consists of a stepper motor that moves a pintle shaped plunger in and out of the air control passage. When the valve plunger is retracted, the air control passage flows more air which raises the idle speed. When the valve plunger is extended, the air control passage flows less air which lowers the idle speed. Over time and miles, the IAC can get carboned up which can have an adverse affect on idle quality. Cleaning the IAC may restore proper function and is an easy procedure to perform and good preventive maintenance so it is never a bad idea. This should be part of a normal tune-up procedure and whenever idle/stalling issues are present. 

 

CLEANING THE JEEP 4.0 IDLE AIR CONTROL

 

Remove the air filter cover, associated hoses and the rubber boot that goes from the air filter cover to the throttle body. Remove the IAC with a Torx driver (2 bolts; one can be kind of hard to get to). On 91 and later, it may be easier to just remove the whole throttle body. Be sure to use a new throttle body to manifold gasket when reinstalling. 

 

“Gently” wiggle out the IAC from the throttle body. Gasket/O-ring on the IAC can be re-used if it is not damaged

 

Clean the IAC with a spray can of throttle body cleaner; inexpensive and available at any place that sells auto parts. Throttle body cleaner is recommended rather than carburetor cleaner as it is less harsh, safe for throttle body coatings and oxygen sensors. Use cleaner, a rag and a toothbrush and or Q-Tips. Be gentle; don’t twist or pull on the pintle that protrudes from the IAC as it is fragile and you could damage it.

 

Thoroughly spray clean and flush where the IAC seats in the throttle body with the same spray cleaner

 

It is also a good idea to clean the entire throttle body bore itself, the butterfly valve inside of the throttle body and it’s edges, and all associated linkage as long as you have things disassembled

[kook911]

Yes I did, and it seemed to help just a little bit, but did not cure my problem. I took a shot in the dark and bought it just to eliminate that part as the problem. As of right now the problem is fixed. Far as I know it could be orginal to the jeep.

[cruiser54]

Yes I did, and it seemed to help just a little bit, but did not cure my problem. I took a shot in the dark and bought it just to eliminate that part as the problem. As of right now the problem is fixed. Far as I know it could be orginal to the jeep.

 

GREAT!!