Jump to content

Dana 60's Swap

Recommended Posts

So I just picked up an 89 Pioneer 4.0 auto. Has 35/30 setup. I picked up a late model Ford Rear 60 with 4.10's, LS, Discs. Going with a matching late model Ford front 60. Has anyone run this setup? Rear should be simple, staying with packs sprung over at 6". Trying to decide on the front end, links? Covert to packs? Any advice would be appreciated. Staying with the 4.10's. Selectable in front and 35's. For now running stock tranny and T-Case. Likely build a 4.2 with 4.0HO Head this winter. Going rail bed on this project too, bed will be up for grabs in classifieds.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've got the axles and the truck, just don't have the time to mix 'em! My plan up front is a 3 link. With the Ford 60 you will start to run out of room for link/shock/coil mounts on the driver side tube. Especially if you are using a Super Duty axle.


Why run a 3/4 ton rear axle and a one ton front axle?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nothing really big. Just figured it out one bracket at a time and my welder lives 45 minutes away from me. I started with Ballistic Fab's combo brackets (spring pad/shock bracket/lower control arm bracket in one single package). Driver side outside parts sits up against the cast spring perch, inside in sits on top of the cast. I also drilled and tapped the old perch and bolted on a 3/8" steel plate to weld to also. Used a off the shelf upper control arm bracket on the passenger side with a low bracket on top of a mini truss over the pumpkin on the driver side. Also used an off the shelf offset track bar bracket that I ended up cutting down and drilling lower holes in that tucks up underneath the spring pad. With the springs directly over the axle instead of in front of it like the stock one the axle ends up 2" further forward. I also had to move the frame end of my track bar forward 2" for it to clear the pumpkin when the driver side wheel is stuffed. Some brackets came from Ballistic Fab, some from Ruffstuff Specialties, some from Artec. Used the Iron Rock Offroad double sheer track bar bracket with my old (Teraflex? Bought from on ald vendor on here who is no longer in business.) track bar mounted upside down to have a heim joint on the axle end. Custom made upper and lower control arms. Uppers use a Johnny Joint on the frame end, bushing on the axle end, lowers use a bushing on the frame end, Johnny Joint on the axle.


For steering I kept the stock F350 tie rod and drag link with a WJ pitman arm reamed out to accept the larger one ton tie rod end. Also installed a 2001 V8 WJ pump, with the old high pressure fitting from my stock pump drilled out to allow more flow, Dodge Durango steering box modified to have the same stroke as the old stock steering box and drilled/tapped for hydraulic assist, after market transmission cooler for the power steering and a screen/magnet power steering filter from Advance Auto Parts (I work at Auto Zone, but we didn't have anything). Added a steering damper after I had some death wobble, then removed it and added some urethane spacers on the the tie rod ends when I found the only play in the steering/suspension was caused by the tie rod rolling. Rock solid now without DW. Last weekend I bent the Ford drag link into a "U" (cheap enough to replace, new one was $35 minus a 20% employee discount...). The longer WJ pitman arm and modified box still don't give lock to lock steering, so I am currently waiting on a 1977 International Scout Traveler pitman arm. This should be the same as the Scout II and be approx 8.5" center to center on the holes. Also have a 8" stroke hydraulic ram on the way from Surplus Center to take the strain off the drag link. Forgot to say I also installed a Lincoln Locker; for street driving I just unlock the hubs.


I run the stock Ford brakes with Chevy brake hoses on the front, matched by the stock Ford brakes on the rear using a TJ brake hose hanging from a custom bracket 6" below the frame with a 1996 Cherokee dual diaphragm booster I swapped in along with the pedal assembly and proportioning valve. Spliced the 87 brake light wires into the 96 pigtail that plugs into the brake pedal switch. Planning to go rear disc again like I ran on the old 8.25". Have not gotten far enough to think about that one yet, but will probably end up with Ford front rotors and Cadillac calipers.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Create New...