Cmbechtold Posted April 4, 2014 Share Posted April 4, 2014 I went down a small gravel trail today and while I was up there it started acting as if I was running out of gas idk what happened there were some small bumps and then boom stalled on me started right back up id tried to go foward in 1st and it was popping almost like misfiring so I checked all wires which are farely new also plugs were changed a month ago. So I drove it home and it would be driving fine and all the sudden it would start popping again id pull up to a red light and it would die down almost like it was gonna stall and the start idleing fine. Ive looked around I don't see anything that could have come loose but idk what else to check any ideas? this is a 4.0 80k miles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87MJTIM Posted April 5, 2014 Share Posted April 5, 2014 Clogged Cat? I had one crumbling inside. The pieces blocked the flow of exhaust. When the truck stopped, the pieces fell out of the way and it would run fine...until the pieces shifted. My 2¢. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted April 5, 2014 Share Posted April 5, 2014 Fuel pump dying on you? How's the ground for the fuel pump? Behind the driver's side taillight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cmbechtold Posted April 5, 2014 Author Share Posted April 5, 2014 I will check tomorrow when it is light out thanks guys! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cmbechtold Posted April 5, 2014 Author Share Posted April 5, 2014 Ok so I just went to start it up and it's started idled perfect so I jumped In it for a drive around the block and first turn it died out on me barely started back up and now it will barely even run and the it dies right away Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bornindesert Posted April 5, 2014 Share Posted April 5, 2014 Agree, clogged Cat or corroded ballast resistor connections. The fact that you where on an incline or wash board road when it started happening leans toward the Cat. Only bad thing is you have to basically pull it off to see if the slug is sliding around, blocking the exhaust. Mine was dislodged and truck wouldn't run or idle but would start, gasp cough and sputter lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cmbechtold Posted April 5, 2014 Author Share Posted April 5, 2014 Ok we'll I started it this morning idled fine this is confusing haha but I need a new exhaust anyway but the cat doesn't look bad but all bolts are rusted so I kinda just have to cut it off Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cmbechtold Posted April 5, 2014 Author Share Posted April 5, 2014 Ok so cat is off still running horrible it won't start for a couple of times then it will start go into high rpms and then come down act like it's running perfect put it in gear let go of the clutch and it dies out on me what the heck is goin on? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cmbechtold Posted April 5, 2014 Author Share Posted April 5, 2014 Agree, clogged Cat or corroded ballast resistor connections. The fact that you where on an incline or wash board road when it started happening leans toward the Cat. Only bad thing is you have to basically pull it off to see if the slug is sliding around, blocking the exhaust. Mine was dislodged and truck wouldn't run or idle but would start, gasp cough and sputter lol. It's weird I 100% thought it was the cat this sounds like exactly what my comanche is doing but it still did it without the cat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cmbechtold Posted April 5, 2014 Author Share Posted April 5, 2014 Ok so I got a fuel filter while I was changing that I noticed a vaccum line hanging down in passenger side wheel well it plugs into 4 wheel drive mechanism so I plugged both plugs in started right up then died the vaccum line won't stay plugged in also part time light came on for the first time since I owned the jeep Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cmbechtold Posted April 5, 2014 Author Share Posted April 5, 2014 We'll I feel like I'm talkin to myself but it's ok it's like a blog exhaust no, fuel filter no, vaccum line to 4wd fixed but still not running it will start and run for a minute or so and then either die when I go to move or just die on itself Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted April 5, 2014 Share Posted April 5, 2014 This is a good way to eliminate that troublesome vacuum crap on the front axle. http://comancheclub.com/topic/17377-cad-fix-1/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cmbechtold Posted April 6, 2014 Author Share Posted April 6, 2014 Anybody? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted April 6, 2014 Share Posted April 6, 2014 Ever test your CPS? Check the ground behind the taillight? Check the fuel pump ballast resistor connections, or bypass it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cmbechtold Posted April 6, 2014 Author Share Posted April 6, 2014 Checked all of them all good. It's so weird it will sit and idle fine(sometimes it's hard to start) but then I shut the hood hard and the engine shuts off or I try and move and the engine shuts off Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toid Posted April 7, 2014 Share Posted April 7, 2014 I hate to b the one to mention it... but checked the various ground points for the sensors. Almost sounds like u got multiple issues. Done any repairs or maintenance lately? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toid Posted April 7, 2014 Share Posted April 7, 2014 I hate auto correct. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cmbechtold Posted April 16, 2014 Author Share Posted April 16, 2014 After trying to find the problem I couldn't so I brought it to the mechanic 150$ later crank sensor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted April 16, 2014 Share Posted April 16, 2014 After trying to find the problem I couldn't so I brought it to the mechanic 150$ later crank sensor For next time, as suggested in post 14: Renix CPS Testing and Adjusting Renix CPSs have to put out a strong enough signal to the ECU so that it will provide spark. Most tests for the CPS suggest checking it for an ohms value. This is unreliable and can cause some wasted time and aggravation in your diagnosis of a no-start issue as the CPS will test good when in fact it is bad. The problem with the ohms test is you can have the correct amount of resistance through the CPS but it isn’t generating enough voltage to trigger the ECU to provide spark. Unplug the harness connector from the CPS. Using your voltmeter set on AC volts and probing both wires in the connector going to the CPS, crank the engine over. It won’t start with the CPS disconnected. You should get a reading of .5 AC volts. If you are down in the .35 AC volts range or lower on your meter reading, you can have intermittent crank/no-start conditions from your Renix Jeep. Some NEW CPSs (from the big box parts stores) have registered only .2 AC volts while reading the proper resistance!! That’s a definite no-start condition. Best to buy your CPS from Napa or the dealer. Sometimes on a manual transmission equipped Renix Jeep there is an accumulation of debris on the tip of the CPS. It’s worn off clutch material and since the CPS is a magnet, the metal sticks to the tip of the CPS causing a reduced voltage signal. You MAY get by with cleaning the tip of the CPS off. A little trick for increasing the output of your CPS is to drill out the upper mounting hole to 3/8” from the stock 5/16”, or slot it so the CPS bracket rests on the bell housing when pushed down. Then, when mounting it, hold the CPS down as close to the flywheel as you can while tightening the bolts. Revised 01-26-2013 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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