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Aftermarket Crossmember


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sup yall? I just got a AX15 to swap out the BA10, did a bit of searching on the forums and found some info

 

however it appears that the crossmember is a must for the swap, I can get the pilot bearing at autozone for around $10 cause its a '96 AX15 from a XJ 4.0 4x4

 

i have read some post that people use aftermarket crossmember and transmission mounts to fit the AX15

 

what companies offer that? so far ive heard rustys

 

 

if anyone has any more musts to add to the list please let me know, the swap has to be done in 1 day.

 

-'96 AX15 (external)

-Pilot Bushing ('74 CJ 304?)

-Flywheel

-Clutch plate

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-

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When I did my swap, this is the list I compiled:


 


AX-15


XJ or MJ Bell housing


NP231J (or whatever t-case you want to use, if it's 4wd)


4wd speedo cable


shift linkage/ body side and tranny side brackets


1 inch t-case drop if using ba10 cross member


external slave pre-bled system


clutch kit


tranny mount


tranny mounting bracket


74 cj pilot bushing


cut 2wd drive shaft


 


The install went smooth, and you CAN use the ba10 cross member you already have, you just need to buy a 3/4 inch t-case drop kit and thread some pre-drilled holes in your frame. Very easy, honestly. 


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When I did my swap, this is the list I compiled:

 

AX-15

XJ or MJ Bell housing

NP231J (or whatever t-case you want to use, if it's 4wd)

4wd speedo cable

shift linkage/ body side and tranny side brackets

1 inch t-case drop if using ba10 cross member

external slave pre-bled system

clutch kit

tranny mount

tranny mounting bracket

74 cj pilot bushing

cut 2wd drive shaft

 

The install went smooth, and you CAN use the ba10 cross member you already have, you just need to buy a 3/4 inch t-case drop kit and thread some pre-drilled holes in your frame. Very easy, honestly. 

 

 thanks bro, that does help alot.

 

idk why you mentioned the 2wd shaft and 4x4 equipment, my Jeep already has 4x4.

 

i agree with keeping stock crossmember, idk why people freak over having to get the right one, its just a piece of metal that can be reformed lol.

 

where did you get your tcase drop kit?

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He's saying that you will need to have your rear drive shaft shortened.

 

If you have to do it in one day......make arrangements to have your shaft worked on the same day.

 

aint the driveshaft behind the ax15 and ba10 same length? i didnt know Jeep had two different driveshafts for 4x4 MJ models.

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I copied and pasted the list I had written up for myself, which was a 2wd to 4wd swap, sorry about that. Your right, the shaft should be the same length as long as you don't change your rear axle. You can't, however, use your current t-case. The splines changed from the ba-10 to the ax-15, I think from 21 to 23. 

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I copied and pasted the list I had written up for myself, which was a 2wd to 4wd swap, sorry about that. Your right, the shaft should be the same length as long as you don't change your rear axle. You can't, however, use your current t-case. The splines changed from the ba-10 to the ax-15, I think from 21 to 23. 

 

gotcha, now might be a good time to get a NP249

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It will never be a good time to get an np249. Those grenade all the time in zj's, and people always swap them for np242s.

 

 

And you actually should be looking at a different length rear driveshaft and front driveshaft that will need to be made or acquired. They are both different. Different length of transmission means different driveshaft lengths. Now, the length difference isn't much so you can get away with leaving it alone, but I suggest rebuilding yours

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It will never be a good time to get an np249. Those grenade all the time in zj's, and people always swap them for np242s.

 

 

And you actually should be looking at a different length rear driveshaft and front driveshaft that will need to be made or acquired. They are both different. Different length of transmission means different driveshaft lengths. Now, the length difference isn't much so you can get away with leaving it alone, but I suggest rebuilding yours

in said swap from 249 to 242 in the ZJs do they get different driveshafts? if not that means the two tcases dimensions are close and almost a direct swap? i know some disassemble is needed between the two to make it functional. i have read some threads on ZJ 249>231 swaps, and the op confirmed keeping stock driveshafts. but I have also read it depends on the year of the tcases, which makes a world of difference.

 

I have the 231 and I'm researching into a 249, remember this is my truck and I prefer the 249s over all tcases, ive never had any problems with one so far. I understand all the Jeepers prefer their settings and such, remember each is their own.

 

if the tcase swap requires a longer driveshaft than the one I have now then I will scrap the idea(or look into D45[1" diff]) and rebuild/replace my current tcase.

but if it requires a shorter driveshaft then I can shorten it and order a custom front driveshaft(or not)

 

its a hard topic to research since many people don't do it. but I'm doing my best.

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Same shafts if the yokes are the same.

 

And you mean Dana 44, not Dana 45. And out of an xj or MJ at that so it is the correct lug pattern and not a p.o.s. Like the aluminum housing d44a from the zj or WJ. Those always spin bearings.

 

You are possibly the first person I have ever heard say anything good about the 249. The 242 is best of both worlds, chain driven with a planetary assembly instead of viscous coupler.

 

Trans mount, you can do it any way you want. Personally, the correct crossmember holds water to me, but because I do not like things hanging too low below my vehicles. Ground clearance means everything.

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Same shafts if the yokes are the same.

 

And you mean Dana 44, not Dana 45. And out of an xj or MJ at that so it is the correct lug pattern and not a p.o.s. Like the aluminum housing d44a from the zj or WJ. Those always spin bearings.

 

You are possibly the first person I have ever heard say anything good about the 249. The 242 is best of both worlds, chain driven with a planetary assembly instead of viscous coupler.

 

Trans mount, you can do it any way you want. Personally, the correct crossmember holds water to me, but because I do not like things hanging too low below my vehicles. Ground clearance means everything.

 

yes i meant D44 sorry about that. I figured that a 249 and axles out of a 5.9L ZJ Quadratrac would be easier to fit in, but since you said the XJs are better I will look into that direction. doesnt the 5.9 ZJ QT axles have limited slip system? compared to selectrac on the XJs of course.

 

on my other thread someone had mentioned the 242 as well, I do like selec-trac but they lack limited slip, so far I've found the 249 will bolt onto the AX15 given that it has a short input. and theyre all 23 spline. all i need to know is about the driveshaft lengths for the 249. if the same I'll grab one.

 

I'm a fan of Quadratrac, they saved my @$$ several times by surprise. besides in Missouri the DOT does horrible work plowing snow, so there are patches of snow/ice still on the highway while most will be dry. it would save me the effort of having to shift from 2wd-4wd. even offroad i prefer the 249 over the 242

 

i have several options for the crossmember. either a new crossmember from rustys, a TJ trans mount, or a tcase drop kit. i will research more on those after ive made my decision on the tcase.

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First, the 249 does NOT have limited slip in the case. They have friction pads or discs that hydraulically lock and unlock, but they are the weak point That is in the rear axle and is an option, not a guarantee.

 

The rear axle from a grand cherokee, no matter which, is junk. They never came with a good axle. They have the d44a which is aluminum diff and get replaced more often than not, they've a tendency to spin carrier bearings. They are also coil sprung and the mounts are completely different.

 

The cherokee or comanche Dana 44 are the only good choices for factory Dana 44, and the xj one needs perches welded on. MJ ones are getting hard to find.

 

Driveshaft lengths vary by transmission and rear axle option, not transfercase, but obviously require that the yokes on the transmission match the shafts

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Above and beyond that, the 242 functions literally the same with a more reliable system than a 249. If you are so worried about the hassle of shifting, you can literally leave it in full time all winter with the same result and better reliability.

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Same shafts if the yokes are the same.

 

And you mean Dana 44, not Dana 45. And out of an xj or MJ at that so it is the correct lug pattern and not a p.o.s. Like the aluminum housing d44a from the zj or WJ. Those always spin bearings.

 

You are possibly the first person I have ever heard say anything good about the 249. The 242 is best of both worlds, chain driven with a planetary assembly instead of viscous coupler.

 

Trans mount, you can do it any way you want. Personally, the correct crossmember holds water to me, but because I do not like things hanging too low below my vehicles. Ground clearance means everything.

 

yes i meant D44 sorry about that. I figured that a 249 and axles out of a 5.9L ZJ Quadratrac would be easier to fit in, but since you said the XJs are better I will look into that direction. doesnt the 5.9 ZJ QT axles have limited slip system? compared to selectrac on the XJs of course.

 

on my other thread someone had mentioned the 242 as well, I do like selec-trac but they lack limited slip, so far I've found the 249 will bolt onto the AX15 given that it has a short input. and theyre all 23 spline. all i need to know is about the driveshaft lengths for the 249. if the same I'll grab one.

 

I'm a fan of Quadratrac, they saved my @$$ several times by surprise. besides in Missouri the DOT does horrible work plowing snow, so there are patches of snow/ice still on the highway while most will be dry. it would save me the effort of having to shift from 2wd-4wd. even offroad i prefer the 249 over the 242

 

i have several options for the crossmember. either a new crossmember from rustys, a TJ trans mount, or a tcase drop kit. i will research more on those after ive made my decision on the tcase.

 

Comanche_Fanatic, I am intrigued by your proposed choices. I can tell you have put some thought into deciding for the ones you are making, and wonder about the reasons behind them.

 

Sounds like you are mostly worried about combination high- and low-traction highway driving conditions. If this is so, I can see why you are attracted to having limited slip in both transfer case and axles. With regard to the limited slip viscous coupling in the transfer case, wear leading to failure and expensive replacement is doubtless tied to the frequency and severity of duty imposed on it. Seems reasonable to me to think that it might give good service if I understand the demands you expect to place on it. Same reasoning applies to your choice of axles.

 

I am unfamiliar with the running gear you are considering, but since my needs for 4WD would seem to make similar demands on the drive train that you propose, I have a special interest in your progress. I live in flatland country, 2 miles down bad dirt road for which 2WD is fine but when pulling a load makes 4WD very useful. I need to get through muddy fields daily for about 12 weeks of the year and across beach sand infrequently all year, in both cases going repeatedly from high to low traction surfaces. Furthermore, I find bigger rear brakes and potential to modify for ABS very desirable. The combination of price and availability will also be factors in my decision. I think what you have picked out for consideration is something I should consider as well. 

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Grand axles are junk no matter what you do, and the viscous coupler is not limited slip. It is a viscous coupler. Entirely different things, similar principles, but as stated wear excessively.

 

They would not hold up for what you need, either.

 

And all grand axles are low pinion, front and rear.

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Skip to 4:04 for a description of the viscous coupling limited slip differential:

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vFDZGAzApw4

 

 

I don't think I'll ever be putting in locking differentials (unless I get them for free!), but if there are cheap LSD axles (and transfer cases) to be had to replace open differential axles then I'd consider them for sure. Down here on the coastal plain, we are conspicuously short of both mountains and boulders, and since I have no plans to go seek out any to go bashing around in, I suspect low pinion axles wouldn't be a problem for my application... unless they wear out U-joints significantly faster even at stock suspension height because of greater driveshaft angles? What's the problem with low pinions?

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the idea of the 249 will be scrapped due to axles, it wouldnt be a true quadratrac without the ZJ axles which several people despise.

 

I will go ahead and search for the 242 instead, like several said, the best of both worlds. plus 4-full time would help me on those bad snow days.

 

all discussions have be moved to new thread

 

http://comancheclub.com/topic/41436-231-242-swap-with-96-ax15/

 

 

 

MOD- please close thread, thanks!

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The axles have nothing to do with. It. Both axles are junk from zj, and no factory jeep Dana 30 has limited slip. The rear diff can be had in d44 or c8.25 with trac lock and function identically. Not a problem. Axles shouldn't have anything to do with your choice in transfercase.

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The axles have nothing to do with. It. Both axles are junk from zj, and no factory jeep Dana 30 has limited slip. The rear diff can be had in d44 or c8.25 with trac lock and function identically. Not a problem. Axles shouldn't have anything to do with your choice in transfercase.

 

can't you just be happy I decided to go with the 242 and discuss that t-case lol.

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