SmthnD1ff Posted December 19, 2013 Share Posted December 19, 2013 My dash wiring is an absolute nightmare and I'm looking to redo most of it- right now the front parking lamps come on with the break lights and the junction box is black and corroded after being cleaned a little over a month ago. I am building a custom dash and want to run new wiring to the headlights abd rear running lights but am not sure what gauge and switch to use. I have plenty of heavy, medium and light gauge wire and quite a variety of stock and toggle switches. Can I use one of the stock XJ dash switches (trans/defrost, etc) to run the headlights/running lights or is there too much power running through that circuit for the switch to handle? If not, what kind of switch should I use? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gogmorgo Posted December 19, 2013 Share Posted December 19, 2013 You can run any switch you like if it's just triggering a relay. Are you sure you've got a dash wiring issue on the parking lights? A single-filament bulb in a double-filament socket can cause this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted December 19, 2013 Share Posted December 19, 2013 Can I use one of the stock XJ dash switches (trans/defrost, etc) to run the headlights/running lights or is there too much power running through that circuit for the switch to handle? If not, what kind of switch should I use? There is no relay for the headlamps in MJs or XJs. All the amps drawn by the headlamps go through the headlamp switch. That's why they burn up quite regularly, especially when upgrading the headlamps to a higher wattage bulb, like H4s. So, no, do not use a stock dash switch for the headlamps w/o wiring in an aftermarket HD headlamp harness w. relays (or make your own harness). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SmthnD1ff Posted December 19, 2013 Author Share Posted December 19, 2013 Id prefer to run them as simply as possible- 12V to switch, switch to lights, lights individually grounded. If the stock switch will burn up what kind of switch will I need and where should I get it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SmthnD1ff Posted December 19, 2013 Author Share Posted December 19, 2013 And I am running stock headlamps- no h4 or anything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted December 19, 2013 Share Posted December 19, 2013 In a perfect world, the stock 60W/55W sealed beams pull a bit over 6 amps with adequate gauge wiring and no corroded connections to cause voltage drops. So you will need a switch with a rating of at least 10 amps. Where you get it is your problem - I don't recommend hot-wiring headlamps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SmthnD1ff Posted December 20, 2013 Author Share Posted December 20, 2013 If you will forgive my ignorance- how should I run the headlights as to not "hotwire" them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted December 20, 2013 Share Posted December 20, 2013 If you will forgive my ignorance- how should I run the headlights as to not "hotwire" them? Use two relays, one for HI beam, one for LO beam. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AirborneDeth Posted December 20, 2013 Share Posted December 20, 2013 I would highly recommend getting the Putco H4 wiring harness and converting the sealed set up to H4 lights. It makes a markedly better improvement to the lighting situation. It was one of the better upgrades I did to my Cherokee. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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