Renix To Ho Complete Swap

[Mattwheels]

So I have an 89 mj and just picked up a 91 xj for parts mainly body, but how hard would it be to do a complete swap of the engine, wire harness, dash, cluster etc.

 

The only thing is this xj has what I assume is the ax15, and my mj has an aw4 if I want to keep it auto what would I need extra, or viceversa if I wanted to convert to manual what would I need to change on the mj

[Mattwheels]

Keep in mind I have a complete donor, just have to rebuild the ax15, or figure out why it gets stuck in gear

[jimoshel]

I picked up a XJ cheap because it wouldn't shift. Couldn't get it out of gear. Added a couple gts of lube cleared it right up. Drove it for a year before selling it. Worth checking.

[cruiser54]

All depends on your skill level. Is it worth it rather than this?

 

Cruiser’s HO into Renix Swap

This swap is easier than some will lead you to believe, generally those who have never done it. Those of us who have done it, like myself, will share with you the things that need to be done for a successful swap. Just think of it as swapping in a long block.

The HO and Renix have some differences but none that can’t be overcome very easily.

Any HO engine from an XJ or ZJ through 1999 can be used. One running change was that the rear of the head was no longer drilled and tapped for the temperature gauge sender beginning in the 96 model year. The sender can be relocated to the threaded hole in the thermostat housing taken from the HO engine. You’ll have to extend the wire to that location. Some brave souls even drill and tap the HO head for the sender.

You will be using the intake and exhaust manifolds from your Renix, along with all your sensors and wiring. Since the intake ports of the HO are slightly different, you use the Renix gasket. Exhaust ports are identical.
You will need to use your Renix distributor as it is different than the HO because they use different fuel management systems. The  flywheel or flexplate from the Renix must be used so your CPS gets the correct signals. The valve cover from the Renix allows you to keep your CCV system intact and requires no modifications.

The HO block will have a plug in the coolant galley on the driver’s side of the block, closest to the front, which needs to be removed so your Coolant Temp Sensor can be installed in it’s place just as it is on the Renix. It requires a 5/16” square drive or a modified 3/8” drive that has been ground down to fit. Do this before installing the engine.

As for the knock sensor, which is located just above the oil pan on the driver’s side of the engine about mid way, all the blocks I’ve seen are threaded for it. If not, I’ve heard they may be drilled but not tapped. Tap the hole if that’s the case.

Revised 03/28/13

 

[Mattwheels]

I'd like to do a full swap, I wanted to clean up the renix harness to the new style anyways, so I figure as long as I have a full donor car it should be relatively easy. The front of the comanche should be pretty self explanatory the engine bays look identical so it should just be a simple swap maybe drill some new holes. But the rear of the truck is something I wouldnt know. Will the gas tank run on the new harness, I know it will be backwards since the renix reads opposite than the chrysler.

 

Only bad thing is the XJ still has the dummy lights in the cluster.. so will have to change those regardless 

[87manche1]

Ya rear harness is a b $@#^& ull need to eliminate everthing but tail lights and pump wiring.

[Mattwheels]

http://comancheclub.com/topic/18588-xj-dash-harness-to-rear-mj-harness-wiring-guides/

 

 

Imagine this will be what I need to follow? which seems to be pretty straight forward.

 

 

So with that guide, and a complete engine bay swap everything should be working correctly?