Ball Joints...is This Right?

[mpace6a]

Pressed in my lower ball joints, and theyre both slightly crooked at the top? The bottoms are snug and even all the way around, but not the top. Not sure if its right since both are like that, but, pictures.

This is the top of the joint

 

The bottoms, on the back side.

 

Opinions?

[ComancheKid45]

Just looks like some slight material is missing from the knuckle from possible erosion/rust at some point during it life. I wouldnt be bothered by it as long it it went in right and is set good and tight ;) JMO

[mpace6a]

More questions...The castle nut is too high for the cotter pin to ride in a gap...can i put it in, do i need new joints or new castle nuts, or do i just need a washer? And theyre torq'd down to 75 ft/lbs...

Drivers side

 

Passenger side

Sorry for the crap quality,...odd angle, the camera wouldnt focus, but you get the idea i hope.

[HOrnbrod]

How much up-down play did you have with the old ball joints? Looks like you may have had some as it appears the hole has been wallowed out a bit. Since you have already pressed them in, I'd use a washer thick enough so when torqued down the cotter slides snugly into a castle nut slot. Should be okay. Did you use an after-market ball joint set?

[mpace6a]

How much up-down play did you have with the old ball joints? Looks like you may have had some as it appears the hole has been wallowed out a bit. Since you have already pressed them in, I'd use a washer thick enough so when torqued down the cotter slides snugly into a castle nut slot. Should be okay. Did you use an after-market ball joint set?

There was quite a bit of up/down movement of the wheels. I put a steering stabilizer on as a quick fix after getting death wobble the first time, but it got so bad that even with the stabilizer the front end would shake and vibrate at 40mph. I put in the moogs from my local orielly's.

[skidoo_j]

Your joints are fine the c is tapered at the end that's why it looks crooked, as long as the lip is seated flush to the mounting side.  Looks just like mine did after installing moogs.   I used a washer to take up the castle nut problem like Hornbred suggested.  If I recall correctly the hole in the moogs was a big further down the shaft then the stock, but the taper lengths were perfect.   

 

 

I too went down the road replacing ball joints and tie rods to chase death wobble.   What it ended up being was death to my wallet.  While I ignored all others recommendations that it was my tires.   I took them in a handfull of times to get balanced.  I'd leave Les Schwab and a few miles down the road i'd have an experience so I'd replace a new part, get an alignment and balance tires again; still issue.   Swapped tires and wheels with my brother's cherokee and the problem went to his cherokee.  After some yelling at a manager that even after I'd been in there 7 times in 2 weeks for balance they didn't think anything was wrong, he agreed to to a "road force" balance for free.  During all seven trips in to them I'd never thrown a weight, but they always changed weights and placements.  They had just performed a standard "spin balance",  their "road force" applies pressure to them while spinning.   The tires were at 80% tread but were so bad they set off alarms on their machines.  They broke the tire down and rotated the tire 6 times then claimed my wheels were tweaked so they ran them out; showing no problems. They would not warranty the tires either claiming they were "off road tires" and that I must have damaged all four tires; although they'd never been off the pavement at that time.    

 

Got some Good year Duratracs from a different retailer and swore I'd never buy another set of their crappy tires or use their service again and have not had an issue since.       

 

Sorry for the long story just check your tires and get them to do a "road force" balance.   Or get a set of tires from someone else and see if issue goes away.  

[mpace6a]

Your joints are fine the c is tapered at the end that's why it looks crooked, as long as the lip is seated flush to the mounting side.  Looks just like mine did after installing moogs.   I used a washer to take up the castle nut problem like Hornbred suggested.  If I recall correctly the hole in the moogs was a big further down the shaft then the stock, but the taper lengths were perfect.   

Yeah thats exactly how mine were...i wasnt sure if it was just an issue with how they were drilled since the bottoms are fine, but glad to know its simple and i don't need to press them out and put new ones in!

[mpace6a]

Your joints are fine the c is tapered at the end that's why it looks crooked, as long as the lip is seated flush to the mounting side.  Looks just like mine did after installing moogs.   I used a washer to take up the castle nut problem like Hornbred suggested.  If I recall correctly the hole in the moogs was a big further down the shaft then the stock, but the taper lengths were perfect.   

 

 

I too went down the road replacing ball joints and tie rods to chase death wobble.   What it ended up being was death to my wallet.  While I ignored all others recommendations that it was my tires.   I took them in a handfull of times to get balanced.  I'd leave Les Schwab and a few miles down the road i'd have an experience so I'd replace a new part, get an alignment and balance tires again; still issue.   Swapped tires and wheels with my brother's cherokee and the problem went to his cherokee.  After some yelling at a manager that even after I'd been in there 7 times in 2 weeks for balance they didn't think anything was wrong, he agreed to to a "road force" balance for free.  During all seven trips in to them I'd never thrown a weight, but they always changed weights and placements.  They had just performed a standard "spin balance",  their "road force" applies pressure to them while spinning.   The tires were at 80% tread but were so bad they set off alarms on their machines.  They broke the tire down and rotated the tire 6 times then claimed my wheels were tweaked so they ran them out; showing no problems. They would not warranty the tires either claiming they were "off road tires" and that I must have damaged all four tires; although they'd never been off the pavement at that time.    

 

Got some Good year Duratracs from a different retailer and swore I'd never buy another set of their crappy tires or use their service again and have not had an issue since.       

 

Sorry for the long story just check your tires and get them to do a "road force" balance.   Or get a set of tires from someone else and see if issue goes away.  

 Put brand new tires on it (205/75 R15 Firestone Destination A/T's) once i finally got it road worthy, checked the wheels, balanced, and everything down at dads shop (he's a commercial tire salesman). Biggest reason i thought it was the ball joints is the extreme camber and vertical wobble it had, that and the lower ball joints wiggled around like a snake with its head cut off.

 

Hopefully this is my last question, is this gap between the axle shaft and tube supposed to be there? If not how do i fix it? Everything is torq'd to spec, hub bolts, hub nut (axle nut?) and nothing wiggles, but it doesnt look right to me?

:dunno:

[skidoo_j]

Hopefully this is my last question, is this gap between the axle shaft and tube supposed to be there? If not how do i fix it? Everything is torq'd to spec, hub bolts, hub nut (axle nut?) and nothing wiggles, but it doesnt look right to me?

:dunno:

Yup that's just a piece of plastic to try and keep large debris out of the tubes.  On the drivers side the seal is at the pumpkin, on the passenger side if you have the two piece shaft the seal is outward of the shift collar.   On the rear axle the seals are on the outside of the tubes.  

 

 If you've changed the passenger side shaft to a single piece there are aluminum inserts with 3 seals in them to really keep debris out of your tubes. If i recall they're made by alloy and a few other manufactures,  but they're not needed.  Here's a quick search of what I'm referring to Outer Seals    but remember they won't work with the two piece passenger side.    

 

 

When I finish with my front axle (converting the two to one piece shaft)  I will pick a set of the alloy seals just because I'll be installing a locker at the same time and hey 4 seals is better then 1  right :)

[mpace6a]

So the gaps supposed to be there, but wouldnt that mean that water and smaller debris could still get inside the tube? or is there a seal furthar down the tube, closer to the differential that keeps everything out?

[skidoo_j]

So the gaps supposed to be there, but wouldnt that mean that water and smaller debris could still get inside the tube? or is there a seal further down the tube, closer to the differential that keeps everything out?

That is correct.   The actual seals for the differential are as i noted above; driver is located at pumpkin, passenger is outside the shift collar if you have the split shaft otherwise it too is at pumpkin on 91+axles.    The plastic thing out by the knuckles does not make any seal whats so ever think of it more as a slinger for larger debris .   The tube sealer thing i sent a link for is purely aftermarket and is just added security for someone who just put a lot of money into it and is paranoid in my opinion, or maybe they're like my friend who continuously thinks his Cherokee is a boat and floats the damn thing.  

[mpace6a]

 

So the gaps supposed to be there, but wouldnt that mean that water and smaller debris could still get inside the tube? or is there a seal further down the tube, closer to the differential that keeps everything out?

That is correct.   The actual seals for the differential are as i noted above; driver is located at pumpkin, passenger is outside the shift collar if you have the split shaft otherwise it too is at pumpkin on 91+axles.    The plastic thing out by the knuckles does not make any seal whats so ever think of it more as a slinger for larger debris .   The tube sealer thing i sent a link for is purely aftermarket and is just added security for someone who just put a lot of money into it and is paranoid in my opinion, or maybe they're like my friend who continuously thinks his Cherokee is a boat and floats the damn thing.  

Huh...maybe a good investment for me then.... :rotfl2:

 

Thanks for the help though, now i can get it all put back together since i know its all right! Missed my mj while it was down...ball joints took a lot longer than they should have.