87manche1 Posted September 20, 2013 Share Posted September 20, 2013 Yea for what ever reason some rotors where deeper than others is the d30 stock? Or a swap Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OneOverZero Posted October 30, 2013 Author Share Posted October 30, 2013 At this point, I got my brake calipers figured out (the above is correct) and ran into a fueling issue. I haven't yet diagnosed the fueling issue, but ran into something that may be worse. What smells sweet, is approximately 23% denser than 10W30, and shouldn't be leaking from your drain plug? :dunno: Drove home from Ohio to discover that the plug leaked a little under a quart of Rotella onto the garage floor over the past three days. Not only that, but the puddle contained a circle of coolant/water that may or may not be related. I replaced the plug & washer that came in the new Spectra pan, letting a couple cups of oil drain into a clean container (lowest point in the system, etc), only to discover that a few drops of coolant pooled in the periphery. Unless the leak is coming from somewhere else and I didn't clean out the drain pan sufficiently, fueling (and a new drain pan with a curved sealing surface) is the least of this truck's concerns. The #11 head bolt would leak down the other way from what I can tell, the block was Magnafluxed (prior to assembly in June 2012, granted), and the head gasket is a new Fel-Pro unit that was incrementally torqued down under new ARP bolts (in January). I'll put an easily-monitored glass cup under the leakpath tomorrow to see if coolant shows up in that. I don't even know anymore. :peek: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1987Comanche Posted October 31, 2013 Share Posted October 31, 2013 :doh: You sure your garage wasn't built on an Indian burial ground? :wall: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OneOverZero Posted January 12, 2014 Author Share Posted January 12, 2014 1987Comanche and I had a heck of a time breaking in the engine tonight. Got started a little after sundown and ran into some questions: 1. APN header (316 stainless steel) uniformly glows a dull red (ports to collector) when varying RPM between 2000-2500 or so. We only noticed this once after shutting off spotlights (it's dark out!) after about five minutes of runtime, so I killed the engine. Confirmed static timing and swapped out the original Renix injectors for freshly-balanced Bosch units from a Volvo 850 Turbo. Glow appeared to be less pronounced at this point (nothing visible if under ~2000RPM for a few seconds) and I ran it for another 20 minutes with no issues, but I'd really like to know what kind of AFR it's producing. No cat yet, so I don't have the benefit of checking temps on that - I'd expect considerable glow there if rich. O2 sensor is new (unproven), and since the header appears to be a uniform temp across all six ports, I'm thinking this may just be normal for a stainless header under no-load conditions. Thoughts? 2. Temps rise to ~215-220F after ten minutes or so of the above conditions. That said, I don't know how effective the electric fan is when the engine isn't idling, and I probably should've installed a new clutch on the mechanical fan. Again, I don't know whether or not this is typical behavior given the circumstances - just have to drive it on the street and see how it behaves. Thermostat opens and cooling system appears to have bled out nicely. (Radiator doesn't have a sensor bung for the electric fan, so we just jumped the harness to kick it on. How did I not notice this?) 3. There's definitely an audible lifter clatter once hot, though oil pressure is good. It's unnerving, but as before, I don't typically sit in my 4.0 Jeeps at highway RPM when parked in the driveway with the hood up, so I'm trying not to overanalyse this until it proves to be sustained and pronounced under "normal" conditions. Perhaps it'll go away with engine time or perhaps it's just a 4.0. My concern is that the OE-length pushrods may be too long, though my machinist pointed out that head & block were decked maybe ten thou total for cleanup. 4. Front galley freeze plug has begun to weep very rapidly. I have a feeling that I'll have to run some block sealant through the lovely all-new cooling system, as pulling the engine to replace the plug isn't on the agenda. JB Weld (or my current "solution", ultra copper RTV) isn't up for the task, I'd say. That said, it ran very nicely with only a couple hiccups - need to adjust idle stop on the throttle body, and the thermostat housing gasket apparently didn't seat. Oil on the dipstick looks perfect and smells gas-free, though damn does CompCams ZDDP additive ever smell funky. I'm on ChumpCar junkyard duty tomorrow (need a Kia Sportage R&P for an '85 RX7 GSL-SE), but hopefully the truck can move under its own power with fresh oil on Monday. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1987Comanche Posted January 13, 2014 Share Posted January 13, 2014 It took a while to coax her through the break-in for sure. Very soon she'll be rolling: . :MJ 1: . As a comment to #1. The header was glowing bright cherry red before pulling the Renix/Deka injectors. It was red after the injector swap but was more of a dull/moderate red color. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OneOverZero Posted February 2, 2014 Author Share Posted February 2, 2014 I've got a Bosch wideband with an Innovate AFR gauge - just need to weld in the extra bung in the crossover! Think I'll bend a sheetmetal bracket that will fit in place of the OE clock block. If it's running funky in closed-loop operation, I'll know soon enough. Ran into a braking mystery. Went to bleed the new brake setup (for reference - '04 WJ master/booster, XJ proportioning valve since my balance assembly was shot, Wagner calipers, Wagner wheel cylinders, Bendix hoses, nickel-copper lines, speed bleeders) and it won't build pressure at all when attempting to bleed either caliper. I noticed a pool of fluid under the rear hose after I pumped the pedal about fifty times to no avail, though I need to narrow that down to the inlet or axle block. That said, no clue why the calipers won't pressurize. No leaks whatsoever in the front system and I bled the MC in the truck (bent some extra line up into the reservoir, primed everything, and swapped over the lines quickly). Either I completely misunderstand the inner workings of a dual-circuit MC or my junkyard WJ MC is shot, I suppose. :dunno: Also, 1987Comanche raised a good point regarding the Renix/HO IAC interchange - I'm using a '94 throttle body (IAC included) with a Hesco TPS adapter. Are Renix and early HO IACs functionally identical or do I need to revert to '90 unit I pulled with the old drivetrain? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1987Comanche Posted February 3, 2014 Share Posted February 3, 2014 How much pressure does it take to open the check ball on your Speed Bleeders? If the entire line is full of air perhaps the you can't develop enough pressure to unseat the ball. If you put the original (dumb) bleeder screw back on can you pull fluid out with the vacuum bleeder? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minuit Posted February 4, 2014 Share Posted February 4, 2014 Have to say, this is probably one of the more entertaining build threads I've seen despite it barely being 2 pages long. Love it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OneOverZero Posted February 7, 2014 Author Share Posted February 7, 2014 Huh, a means of determining AFR without waiting for the plugs to season and the pistons to hole: Going to make a sheetmetal gauge panel to replace the OE clock. How much pressure does it take to open the check ball on your Speed Bleeders? If the entire line is full of air perhaps the you can't develop enough pressure to unseat the ball. If you put the original (dumb) bleeder screw back on can you pull fluid out with the vacuum bleeder? I haven't even tried with the vacuum bleeder yet - so far I've just tried the speed bleeders. The new screws that came with the calipers were so bad that I put them in the trash where they belonged, so I can't go that route, unfortunately. That said, even with the speed bleeders locked down, I can't build pressure at the rear... hmm. I think I'm just going to tow it over to Presley Automotive and have them pull fluid through. At least that will narrow it down to an MC issue if it's not an improvement! Have to say, this is probably one of the more entertaining build threads I've seen despite it barely being 2 pages long. Love it! Thanks! I'm ready for the build thread to be over, to be honest. :rotf: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OneOverZero Posted March 4, 2014 Author Share Posted March 4, 2014 Success on one front! E2 is the error code for "no sensor detected" - it promptly calibrated and read 22.4 once connected. Beautiful! It's wired to key on at accessory and run (through a tie into an unused live wire off the horn relay, as 1987Comanche found in my electrical manual). For the time being, wiring is run down the side of the dash, though I'd like to route it properly once I get everything running and have the time. Also need to tap from a headlight power wire to allow the gauge to dim with lights on. It's mounted in an Autometer pod, as the brackets I made for the dash proved to be useless once I realized they dash support interferes with the deep gauge. Oops. At this point, I just need to... redo all the brake lines I made, as I don't trust a single one of 'em. Also need to grab a coolant temp switch with ~215-220F activation temp for the HO thermostat housing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1987Comanche Posted March 5, 2014 Share Posted March 5, 2014 Glad you got it wired up and that it works! :clapping: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnnybebad Posted March 14, 2014 Share Posted March 14, 2014 awesome build ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comanche1989 Posted March 16, 2014 Share Posted March 16, 2014 Do you still hear the lifter/valvetrain clatter from your engine? I just rebuilt my 4.0, and everything is perfect other than the clatter I can hear at about 1400 rpm at slow speeds.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OneOverZero Posted March 17, 2014 Author Share Posted March 17, 2014 Got all the brake lines squared away and successfully bled the entire system (didn't bench bleed the master this time - installed speed bleeders at all four corners since I'm lazy and hate brake fluid). It's ready to go... apart from one problem. I could've sworn the hefty swaybar and poly mounts were in place, but they're not. I sheared both swaybar endlinks in half when pulling the OE pieces the start of this whole project, and the bolts holding them to the axle are corroded all to hell and back. After countless PB Blaster soaks, I've only managed to move the nuts a few threads. They're not going anywhere, and I can't find a way to hold the links out of the way of tierod/tires since they're shorn in half. No luck cutting through the bolts. From installing the JKS Quicker Disconnects on my XJ, I thought I remembered these bolts being keyed, but these appear to spin freely. Do you still hear the lifter/valvetrain clatter from your engine? I just rebuilt my 4.0, and everything is perfect other than the clatter I can hear at about 1400 rpm at slow speeds.... I'd like to know myself! Haven't started it since I made that post. Time to get a 10-day transportation permit, get it inspected, and transfer the AMC6 plates from my XJ to my MJ. :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OneOverZero Posted March 19, 2014 Author Share Posted March 19, 2014 Do you still hear the lifter/valvetrain clatter from your engine? I just rebuilt my 4.0, and everything is perfect other than the clatter I can hear at about 1400 rpm at slow speeds.... I'd like to know myself! Haven't started it since I made that post. Time to get a 10-day transportation permit, get it inspected, and transfer the AMC6 plates from my XJ to my MJ. :) The answer is yes! For the first time since August 2012, the truck has moved under its own power. Put all of twenty miles on it. The valve clatter I heard during cam break-in isn't getting any better - if anything, it's a good bit louder when moving since I can pull more vacuum off-throttle. Haven't narrowed it down to a certain cylinder yet (probably #3 or 4), but it sounds exactly like a collapsed lifter or poor oiling. Oil pressure says at 45-50psi at cruise and dips to ~25 at idle, so unless I'm completely misremembering the filter adapter circuit and bypass, it should be good at the top end (especially since it's much quieter under load). Fresh oil and filter before I left the house, at any rate. I'm not losing any sleep over the clatter for the time being, so I'll drive it by the machine shop this week. I doubt it's going to do anything that would tear up the lifter bore, and it's making good power. AFR says within 14.4-14.7 under load, so it's right at where I'd expect stoichiometry to be with E10, and it immediately blips to 22.4 off-throttle. IAC might be acting up, as a quick snap of the throttle results in a near-stall before bumping back up to a proper clip. It's an HO IAC in a Renix truck, so that may be to blame - don't know what the differences are, so I'll clean and swap in one of the Renix ones I have around (pretty sure the mounting is identical). If nothing else, the pieced-together and resealed junkyard AX15 is one of the nicest-shifting transmissions I've felt. The only real knock I have against the Dart/Abarth C635/535 trans is the marginal shifter feel and numb clutch paired to an electronic throttle, so I may just have forgotten how crisp this direct mechanical link really is. The LUK clutch does chatter slightly if I'm sloppy, but that's not too surprising given the new bits and a flywheel with the concavity machined off of it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1987Comanche Posted March 19, 2014 Share Posted March 19, 2014 She's alive and driving around under her own power! :banana: . :MJ 1: . :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OneOverZero Posted May 17, 2014 Author Share Posted May 17, 2014 Valve noise has continued, seemingly becoming much louder about 10min after the coolant reaches operating temp - I'm guessing it's due to oil heatsoak. Still haven't pulled the VC (possibly the head), but it has ~820mi on it now. Seems to be coming from #5 or 6, if my listening horn (a reversed vuvuzela) is any indication. Has anyone succeeded in replacing the front, driver's-side freeze plug with the engine in the truck? Mine appears to have been pressed it properly, but it still weeps from the top. Hoping that's the source of my coolant loss. Turn signals are intermittant and tend not to work once it's more than 65F outside. This is... not reassuring for someone who fears electrical fires. I'm going to start pulling & cleaning all the grounds I can track down. At times, I can hear the relay but have no dash indicators or signals, though the hazard lights all work (aside from, at times, the front passenger side). Truck died on me about a mile from home earlier in the week (thankfully, I had a nice pulloff and was a mile from home...). It stumbled from a stop a few times prior (AFR always going very lean, then briefly overcompensating to very rich), but AFR pegged at max lean and it stuttered off the road before stalling. Wouldn't restart for a while, even after I threw a few gallons of gas in it. Still not certain what's going on - when it was stumbling off the line, I assumed the TPS was rotating on its mount, but it pretty clearly had fuelling issue. I'm guessing rail pressure was close to zero. It started up and drove away just fine after about a half hour. Probably time to replace the Airtex pump the PO installed, and I might try swapping out the FP ballast resistor with a spare just in case. Will also pull the taillight to clean the FP ground. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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