My Herculined 90 Comanche

[DansGreyMj]

I've been running Rough Country drop brackets without braces since they came out years ago and I've had zero issues.

[manche_mane]

I've been running Rough Country drop brackets without braces since they came out years ago and I've had zero issues.

 

Good to know! I think it is ok too just didn't want to be the one to say it...lol

[shelbyluvv]

I've been running Rough Country drop brackets without braces since they came out years ago and I've had zero issues.

Me too.

[manche_mane]

Nothing to show really. Just organizing the cluster in my brain...

I decided that as far as my castor, I will set it according to my pinion angle to prevent binding. As far as the inner Cs, I can cut and turn them to the exact angle I need. But this will have to wait until I have a house with a garage. While I'm at it I'll put a nice truss on and Better brackets......the other option would be to find a driver side diff axle and flip the d300.

 

Also, I have the AW4 that would be a direct swap for an 87-90, but that is a 21 spline output. The 300 requires 23 spline so I'll buy a 91-96 and sell the 3 extra trannys... :wall:

 

On top of that, a minor issue...The caliper banjo bolts do not fit the hole in my M.O.R.E. brake lines(must have bought the jeep application. can't remember). I have a friend who runs lathes so hopefully that'll do it. :doh:

 

On a good note, I finally got some good DOM pipe for the tie rod and drag link. I'll have someone else weld the ends on for me. In the mean time I'm looking for the proper taper for my pitman arm and Y-link.

 

I bought a 3 row aluminum radiator, 14" e fan, and a filler neck for the upper hose. Ill have my head machined or replaced. Yaaye

-Also received a new complete header panel for the 96...going back to the old. seems a lot stronger

 

EDIT UPDATE- I got the correct AW4 from a 95 xj. I've had the Novak clockring. Now waiting for the d300 gasket and seal kit in the mail.

Bought the 7/8" tapered bit and drill to ream the drop pitman and tie rod Y-link. The steering angle is pretty darn flat. Looking good to me. I'll take more take pics once the tie rod and drag link are tacked on.

 

The brake lines are in my friend's shop. Hopefully he gets them nice and straight.

 

No new pics as of yet, but this one will give an idea about the angles I have. If only the inner C's were as easy to rotate...

 

Edited February 23, 2016 by manche_mane

[manche_mane]

My new weapon..7/8 tapered bit and 1/2" drill. I used an extra Chevy pitman arm as a guide how far to ream

 

Is this drag link angle sufficient?

[manche_mane]

Got my brake lines honed out. The eBay listing said M.O.R.E., but the badges say Crown..lol only took me a couple years to notice.

My buddy got it really close but didn't want to over do it, so I used my dremel to get the threads to slide in.

 

[manche_mane]

Well it's been a long time since I posted an update. Since last year I've set up a new header panel and set up 0awg positives and grounds.

I brought the head to the shop and had it resurfaced. The guy said it was massively warped. All good now. New seals. No cracks.

The oil looked great and the bottom end looks great....as far as I can see.

But when I looked back in the pan, there was some sludge. I ran my fingers through it and found some chunks that were like metal but I can break it down with my nails. There is one little chunk that has me worried. Definitely metal. Can't tell where its from but just to be sure I taking the block to the shop now. Ugh thought it was solid. My fault for not pulling the pan off months ago.

I'm still cleaning a few brackets and stuff but here is a somewhat recent picture of the top end

 

Hopefully I'll have more done before a year is up...but family takes precedence over extra vehicles