GrumpysMJ Posted April 19, 2013 Share Posted April 19, 2013 My 88 had a bench seat that was shot. I bought a set of buckets from another member, but their mis-matched, passenger from an MJ and driver from an XJ. Trying to match one or the other has been not to easy. I was thinking of removing/cutting off the sliders and frame from the bench seat, leaving only the mounting brackets that bolt to the floor. In place of the seat frame, use a piece of sheet steel, minimum 1/8 inch, and bolting it to the floor brackets, basically making a solid platform that would be the same hight, width and angle of the original bench. Paint it with some bed liner paint and cover it with the same type of material as the carpet.. I think with this setup I could mount just about any type of bucket seat with its slider. As Comanche buckets and the 2 door Cherokee buckets are hard to find (in my area), it would be easier to find seats from any smaller suv or pickup. And, they would be a lot newer than 20-25 years old. Just running this by some of you as a lot of you fab up stuff for your MJ's or other Jeeps. Can't see why this wouldn't work or not be safe. Again, I would be using the stock mounts with sheet steel, not wood or angle brackets, for the platform top. If anyone has done this or can see a down side to my little project, please chime in. GrumpysMJ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keyav8r Posted April 19, 2013 Share Posted April 19, 2013 Sounds like a plan to me. You may have to cut your 1/8" sheet/plate to clear the seat adjustment mechanism (handle). Depending on the space between the MJ brackets and the seat sliders you may want to use 3/16" or 1/4" sheet/plate for better strength and less flex. An option would be 1/4" f lat bar front and rear attached to the "new" seat sliders. I've got XJ buckets on fabricated brackets that work OK but i'm not 100% happy with them. Would like to find some two door buckets that complement the gray interior and allow the use of an XJ or ZJ center console. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrumpysMJ Posted April 19, 2013 Author Share Posted April 19, 2013 Yeah, 3/16 would probably be better strength wise. I'm making this up as I go. Work at Lowe's so I have access to grade 8 and grade 5 hardware, and there's a metal fab. place not to far away for the steel. Owner come's into store a lot so I think I can get a break on the steel. Should be real simple to fab. up, and can bolt the inner seat belts right to the steel. Local pick n pull only charges 40.00 for a bucket seat, new or old. I could pretty much use any bucket that folds forward, and pick a pair from a late model car or suv/truck, in the color and fabric that I want. Just seems that it's difficult to find MJ buckets or XJ 2door buckets, and when you do, your still dealing with 20-25 year old seats. I figure I can do my project for less than 200.00 total which is less than trying to re-foam and recover one old seat. Will take some pic's as I go along with this. GrympysMJ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keyav8r Posted April 24, 2013 Share Posted April 24, 2013 Why not use the stock inner seat belt anchor point? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted April 24, 2013 Share Posted April 24, 2013 Topic moved to the Tech forum from the DIY project writeups (Common MJ projects with lots of pictures) since there are no pics and it has not been completed - yet. It's an interesting topic, and if someone does complete this project, be sure to write it up and post in the DIY forum (with lots of pics). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrumpysMJ Posted April 24, 2013 Author Share Posted April 24, 2013 Probably could use the stock anchor points. Depends on what type of seats I end up installing. Some buckets and bench with fold down armrests have an inner belt that's attached to the seat. Just have to see what I end up with. Had to take the brackets to a local machine shop to have the sliders cut off. Get rm back Friday and I'll go from there. I will take some pic's as I go along. Kind of making this up as I go along. When I get the mounts back I'll fab a base up with plywood to see if I need spacers between the floor mount and the seat base to clear the trans. tunnel. Than I've got to hunt down a nice set of seats. Thinking of using the bench with the fold down arm rest from a late model Ford Ranger, Chevy/GMC S-10 or Canyon pick-up. GrumpysMJ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
noboundaries.jd Posted April 24, 2013 Share Posted April 24, 2013 i believe it is 55" door pocket - door pocket. the ranger benches are roughly 48". i did not go that route as i thought that was giving up too much but, having spent the weekend fabbing my seats, they may be the easier option however, i'd love to see the underside of a factory MJ bench. the contour more specifically. i probably have 2 1/2" of fabwork (sounds better than shimming) between my stock floor brackets and the sliders on my new seats and that still doesnt put you above the tunnel...and i feel like my seats are a smidgen tall. granted, there is still the question of slider assembly height and seat thickness... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrumpysMJ Posted April 24, 2013 Author Share Posted April 24, 2013 Can't measure from door pocket. Have to measure from the inside of the plastic panels behind seat at rear of cab. Door to door and you won't be able to slide seats back. I measured and its about 51" on mine. Measured the bench on mine when it was still in and I think it was right at 50", and that was with mushed foam. GrumpysMJ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
noboundaries.jd Posted April 25, 2013 Share Posted April 25, 2013 i took a look after reading your reply and see what you mean. not that i thought about it but i wouldnt have been able to anyways due to my seats, that did not recline forward, being in until i got home with the new ones lying in the bed. thankfully my front-rear adjustment is exactly where i need it so no worries. here's a pic finally of them installed: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keyav8r Posted April 26, 2013 Share Posted April 26, 2013 Those are good looking seats! What did they come out of? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
noboundaries.jd Posted April 26, 2013 Share Posted April 26, 2013 thanks! an amazingly clean '87 celica Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NHMJXJ Posted November 15, 2013 Share Posted November 15, 2013 Alright, so now I have MJ seats with brackets that have some rust, and pristine brackets I puchased separately. Anyone know if it's a special tool to back the bolts out to separate the bracket from the seat? A standard 1/2 inch open end barely fits. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keyav8r Posted November 15, 2013 Share Posted November 15, 2013 They are metric. 13mm, if I remember correctly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NHMJXJ Posted November 15, 2013 Share Posted November 15, 2013 Could be, but 1/2" turned the bolt. The problem isn't the size, it's fitting the tool between the frame and the top of the bracket. The bolt goes through from the top into a pseudo nut thats keyed to fit into the frame of the bracket. If I could get the bolt out far enough I could spin the nut, but getting more than a fraction of a turn takes more effort than it should. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
48MJ Posted November 20, 2013 Share Posted November 20, 2013 Turn the seats over and remove the seat bottem first then the bolts are easier toget to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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