Bmoore2 Posted March 13, 2013 Share Posted March 13, 2013 Hey Guys, I have all the stuff to make my drivetrain where I want it. Now I need some help on what to do to obtain some flex. I have no clue what makes these trucks flex out but I want mine to do it. (Just becasue its bad a$$.) By measuring from a process I was given on here I have a 6 inch lift. And thats all that I know about it. From what I have been reading a long arm is the way to go to acheive this. But dumb me don't even know what the hell your are talking about saying long arm. How labor intensive is it to install? (we all know I have to pay labor) Here are some pictures of my current set up that was on the truck when I bought it. (minus track bar and stablizer) If there are any questions for me that would assist in a helpful answer please let me know. I don't have a clue what to do. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I have not done the 8.25 swap as you can see. But I have it and everything for the swap to locked front and back with 4.56 gears. Just need to figure out where my next chunk of change will go and if maybe I should hold off and have what ever is needed for flex installed at the same time as the drivetrain. Thank as always for all the help from one very great group of guys. I couldnt spend my money without yall!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mnkyboy Posted March 13, 2013 Share Posted March 13, 2013 It will flex pretty well as it is, just remove the swaybar links before you go off road. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvusse Posted March 13, 2013 Share Posted March 13, 2013 The shocks will probably stop the rear. Have some shack mounts welded low on the axle tube (actually, swap in a real axle first, before that D35 blows up) and run longer shocks. Make sure your brake line is long enough, get a longer one if needed. In the front , disconnect the sway bar links, check the brake hoses and see from where to where the shocks can travel. Long arm suspension could flex more than short arm, but short arm can flex as well. This is with 6.25 in front, SOA rear, short arms. Limited by the shocks: To get an idea of high that tire is off the ground, the tires measure 35" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bmoore2 Posted March 13, 2013 Author Share Posted March 13, 2013 The shocks will probably stop the rear. Have some shack mounts welded low on the axle tube (actually, swap in a real axle first, before that D35 blows up) and run longer shocks. Make sure your brake line is long enough, get a longer one if needed. In the front , disconnect the sway bar links, check the brake hoses and see from where to where the shocks can travel. don't worry..... I have all the stuff for the 8.25 axle swap now. Actually I am schedualed to drop it off friday to have the rear end swapped, new gears and and locker up front, new chromoly axle shafts and spicer 720 u joints. All that is ready to go. I have read to go mid 90 dakota brake lines? That sound right? I was going to order some new shocks anyway. So basically just buy shocks for a larger lift than 6 inches? Thats some pretty serious flex... All that i would ever need. So just pull those pins in the front and thats it? I was always worried about being able to get the pins back in. :dunce: Thanks again guys!!!!!! :cheers: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mnkyboy Posted March 13, 2013 Share Posted March 13, 2013 You need to find an RTI ramp or a forklift to flex the truck with, that way you can see what needs changed. If it was lifted properly tbe brake lines and shocks should be ok. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvusse Posted March 14, 2013 Share Posted March 14, 2013 Mid 90s Dakota brake hose works for the rear axle. TJ Wrangler (97-06) works also. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
benjy_26 Posted February 14, 2014 Share Posted February 14, 2014 Keep the basics in mind as well. when I first got my MJ, the front end didn't flex very well at all, even with a lift done properly. I checked everything out, I found that 25 years worth of hauling stuff around thr PO's muddy back 40 and neglect had conspired to basically weld/seize the control arm bushings in their place. A lot of PB Blaster and some Energy Suspension love got my front end drooping and compressing like it should. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Incommando Posted February 23, 2014 Share Posted February 23, 2014 The shocks will probably stop the rear. Have some shack mounts welded low on the axle tube and run longer shocks.... This. Those short rear shocks are limiting your travel and weld-on mounts are very cheap. If you want to protect your tires and body at full flex remember to bump stop the up-travel to prevent tire contact. I like to have enough clearance on the front to allow me to turn the wheels at full flex without hitting the body. Being friends with your sawzall also helps those clearance issues... :brows: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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