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'86 to '88 Dana 35 worries


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I'm swapping in an '88 Cherokee Dana 35 (4.56s) to replace my '86 Comanche 35 (4.10s). According to the castings, they are both 35Cs, but the shafts pulled right out. I've really only ran into 2 concerns though.

 

1st concern is the axle shafts. I only have the passenger side axle shaft on the new axle, so I'll need to drop in my old driverside shaft. The passenger shafts have a different taper on them though, so I'm concerned my old shafts won't work.

The '86 is on the left, the '88 is on the right.

 

2nd concern is the u-bolts that I picked up from the parts house.

The old u-bolts are Much beefier and are something like 9/16" thick. The new ones are 7/16" thick and the parts house looked it up and that's all they can get.

I know everyone recommends using new u-bolts, and I do as well, but is it worth it with this drastic of a difference?

 

And here's the 35C markings:

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don't even risk those u bolts. they're scrawny

That's what I was thinking. I ran an identical set on my Toyota, and they no longer look like 'U's. Problem is, I don't know of any local spring shops and I'm not perfectly comfortable reusing the old bolts.

I'm also taking the truck on a road trip (600-700 miles) on Friday.

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MJ u-bolts are 14mm (which is close to 9/16") and XJ u-bolts are 12mm (which is slightly less than 1/2". I've settled on using 1/2" from a local spring shop for all my vehicles, XJ and MJ. You can safely run those 7/16" u-bolts for an easy highway trip, and replace them with beefier ones whenever you can get them. If you can't find them locally, try Husky Spring Company (I think their web site is something clever like www.huskyspring.com or something like that).

 

The 86 and 88 axles should be the same. The 'C' in 35C does not indicate c-clips. It stands for "customer," meaning the axle is shipped to the vehicle manufacturer partially assembled, for "customer" completion. Chrysler made the change to c-clips either mid-year in 1989 or with the start of the 1990 model year. I'm not sure about MJs, but in XJs any rear axles with the c-clips will also have 9" x 2.5" drums rather than 10" x 1.75"

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The 86 and 88 axles should be the same. The 'C' in 35C does not indicate c-clips. It stands for "customer," meaning the axle is shipped to the vehicle manufacturer partially assembled, for "customer" completion. Chrysler made the change to c-clips either mid-year in 1989 or with the start of the 1990 model year. I'm not sure about MJs, but in XJs any rear axles with the c-clips will also have 9" x 2.5" drums rather than 10" x 1.75"

So, the axle shafts, although not identical, will operate the same?

I didn't realize that's not what the 'c' stands for, but now that I think about it, I remember it being mentioned in the past.

I'm transferring all of my MJ braking system to the new axle. I don't like to have to carry a long book in case of an emergency, and try to figure out what part came from what vehicle, so I feel this is the best route.

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Also that 86 shaft looks tweaked in the splines. Is it?

 

If so I'd look for replacements!!! EVERYONE who wheels the D35 SHOULD have a spare set anyhow!! :brows:

 

CW

It didn't appear to be when I was looking at the shaft differences., but honestly, I wasn't looking at it real hard considering my power plant.

 

I won't start into it on this thread, but I'm curious about 4-cylinder automatics snapping 35s. With a stick or 4.0 I can understand it a little more.

 

And last comment, my driverside shaft is longer than my passenger shaft, so should I look into carrying a spare for both sides?

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Also that 86 shaft looks tweaked in the splines. Is it?

 

If so I'd look for replacements!!! EVERYONE who wheels the D35 SHOULD have a spare set anyhow!! :brows:

 

CW

I carry 2 sets for the turdy five, and pray I don't eat up the R&P.

If I could find a shaman to sprinkle some stuff on the pumpkin I would.

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Does anyone else see it? The shaft looks twisted in the splines.... if so you NEED TO FIND A NEW ONE!!

 

Yes the shafts are different legnths.

Yes you should carry BOTH.

Yes you can still break it with a 4CYL. Its not all about engine power. Its carring the weight of your vehicle and the rotational forces as well as engine power. Combine that with larger than stock tires and you have a recipe for busted D35.

 

If that shaft is twisted thru the splines, then you did that with your 4CYL, no?

 

Just watching out for you. I'm not the one that will be hassled by it breaking.

 

Good luck,

 

CW

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CW, I took some more. They look good to me, but I might not be looking close enough. I very much appreciate your concern, as I don't want to put in a bad shaft and run into more problems because of it.

 

I'm running the non questioned (new) shaft right now, but was going to get a new bearing pressed onto the old shaft and install it. If the old shaft is bad, I will just get a new bearing pressed on the new shaft and hold the old shaft for a crutch incase of breakage.

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They do look fine. The new pics are VERY clear and show wear. Nothing to worry about.

 

The way they have worn looked like they may have been twisted.

 

Commonly when a shaft breaks it twists slightly first. I thought that is what I saw in your first pic.

 

Sorry for the false alarm...

 

CW

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They do look fine. The new pics are VERY clear and show wear. Nothing to worry about.

 

The way they have worn looked like they may have been twisted.

 

Commonly when a shaft breaks it twists slightly first. I thought that is what I saw in your first pic.

 

Sorry for the false alarm...

 

CW

I'd rather have people point out potential problems, than have them fail because noone said anything. Thank you again.

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