maddzz1 Posted January 4, 2013 Share Posted January 4, 2013 97 4x4 automatic -Battery was dead after not driving for 2 days; after it died again i replaced the battery with a new one since it was a few years old. -Truck ran fine until I left it for a few days again. I turned the key and nothing happened, then I couldn't get the key out. -Checked switch on side of shifter(since it also wouldn't come out of park, but that was solved once I jumped it) and it was fine, removed key by pushing manual release button. -Then I jumped the truck and it started but the starter kept trying to engage even after turning it off and removing the key. It stopped after a few seconds. Then restarted and was fine. -I was thinking it was the ignition switch but that shouldn't cause a power draw overnight that is draining my battery should it? -Now I'm leaning towards a starter or remote start wire grounding out somewhere. Anybody have any opinion/idea before I go out in the single digit weather and try to figure this out? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harley Posted January 5, 2013 Share Posted January 5, 2013 replace the starter. no matter what its junk. good place to start. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freakjeep93 Posted January 5, 2013 Share Posted January 5, 2013 ignition swith can cause a draw since the key may not be turning all the way to off id replace it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biotex Posted January 5, 2013 Share Posted January 5, 2013 You can check for a draw by removing the negative cable off the battery, and measuring amps between the negative battery post and the cable end. Any current passing will have to travel thru the meter, and you can measure it. Then you can remove fuses one at a time until the draw goes away. This may or may not isolate the problem. If not, try removing the connector off the alternator. Bad diodes in an alternator can cause a drain. Hope this helps you stay out of the cold any longer that you have to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dfreeman616 Posted January 6, 2013 Share Posted January 6, 2013 for the draw test biotex mentioned, it should be less than .3 amps key off with all doors closed and the hood light off. if you start at the underhood fusebox and isolate the main circuit, i can look up the wiring to see what all is on the fuse. just might take me a day or two to check back in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Automan2164 Posted January 6, 2013 Share Posted January 6, 2013 Additionally to the test biotex mentioned... When removing the cable, keep it powered with a jumper before putting the meter in place. When I do it, I usually take the cable off then put a heavy jumper wire between the two. Turn the key on, but don't start it. Then put your lead between the cable and battery post and remove the jumper to divert all flow through the meter. The thought behind this is that if you remove the cable, then put the meter in place, some modules or issues may have been forced to sleep when they lost all power while you had the cable off. By putting the jumper in place, turning it on, then turning it off and removing the jumper with the meter in place, you maintain power the whole time and don't force anything off. I don't know if all that made any sense... Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biotex Posted January 7, 2013 Share Posted January 7, 2013 Made sense to me Rob. Thanks for that tip! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xjrev10 Posted January 7, 2013 Share Posted January 7, 2013 I've seen in the past with older remote start systems, this problem happening. I would be willing to bet that it has something to do with it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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