Brake Booster Confusing???

[insaneclowns04]

ok so i need to replace my brake booster on my 1986 2.5 5speed comanche. i am want to upgade it to the newer sytle. but i am confused one which way is the easiest. so is it the wj or the zj. what i have read on here it sounds like the zj easiest route. but then i also read where it make it sound like the wj is the easiest way. so which one really it the easiest? your help would mean a lot thanks Eric

[skidoo_j]

From all references i have, and it's been discussed multiple times. you want a 95-96 xj or a 00 wj you'll need to make the push rod ring larger on both if you keep you same pedal assembly. and make a flat edge for the brake light.

 

95-95 i think has more common brake line ends where the wj is a bell.

[insaneclowns04]

ok another question. when you look it up on ebay all the used one say they fit years 95-98. some with the brake master cylinder. so has long has it those years it will work right?

 

thanks Eric

[relyt120]

The 95 and 96 are different than the 97+. I believe 97+ needs some more adjustments to work. I did the 95 on mine, not too bad. Now that I think of it I have one from 96 in my garage. Pm me and we may be able to work something out.

[ComancheKid45]

95-96 is ideal either ZJ or XJ. Later models will work but the rod lengths seem to vary and the forementioned stayle of brake lines comes into play.

 

95-96 models are pretty much bolt in, make lines and go driving!

[Exgrayxj]

On my 89 XJ, I long ago bought a 97 up xj booster/master (ebay) because at the time that seemed to be the most commonly done, and planning on doing it soon, that is what I bought.

FF a few years, my original booster gave up, so I figured it was time.

I had to modify my pedal arm (drill new pushrod hole about 1 or 1 1/2" lower) and make up new lines from master to dist block, due to the newer mster using bubble fittings. I got two steel flex lines from a Concorde or Intrepid that were plenty long enough, and cut and reflared the dist block end (same size tube, just different fitting/flare). That was mainly to have the "cool" braided steel...

Works great, better brakes than I ever had, well worth the trouble, and the trouble really wasn't much, just part of the learning curve.

I think my pedal is still higher than it was, but not a problem for me.

At the same time I had the pedal out to drill the new hole I narrowed the right end of the pedal about 1 1/2", my work boots kept getting tangled with it and the throttle.

 

You will also need to drill the pushrod hole out to 5/8", for the bushings. Thought about using the newer pedal arm, but didn't have it, and didn't want to make another 60 mile round to the u pull... just to see if it would work.

Oh, and used a late 80's Chevy brake light switch (plunger style) using an existing bracket to get rid of the ford style one in there, that is the reason for the flat being made on the end of the pushrod.

Sounds a lot more complicated than it really is, really it is just simple mechanics.

 

All that being said, I now have read that the 95-96 xj is virtually a bolt on, with the same results, and when I do the MJ that is what I will most likely use.

 

In either case, get everything from the donor, including (especially) any spacers between the booster and firewall. In my case with the xj, I think with another spacer I might not have needed to redrill the pedal arm, though the angle of the dangle seemed different to me, the pushrod now seems to be angled down from straight into the booster...BUT ...I HAVE GREAT BRAKES!

Fear not, just remember, brakes are a good thing to have, and have working properly.