darkenfire Posted November 26, 2012 Share Posted November 26, 2012 Got the Comanche together enough to take it for its first spin, and was surprised how loud it was. Then I realized with no headliner or carpet or firewall padding, perhaps it wasn't too crazy. Get it home, and notice this: anyone have a similar thing happen? Whats the deal? I guess i'll have one of those windsheild van services come out and seal this up or is there a way to do it myself? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ftpiercecracker1 Posted November 26, 2012 Share Posted November 26, 2012 I'd say your lucky, removing he window with it still glued in place is a major PITA, Now you have a golden oppourtunity to take it out completely and seal it up good and tight. Very easy to do, the hard part is just removing it, which is obviously been done for you. this will help with removal and reinstallment http://comancheclub.com/topic/18397-removal-and-replacement-of-my-slider-back-window/page__hl__window Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ParadiseMJ Posted November 26, 2012 Share Posted November 26, 2012 No, there is NO way to do that yourself. I just can't be done. Maybe glue would work?!? Sorry, I'm just in a smart a$$ mood today...of course you can do it yourself. Take it all the way out. Clean out all the old cheapo glue/adhesive/crap. Go buy some GOOD (i.e. not WalMart cheapo stuff) construction adhesive in a biiiig tube. Re-install. That's all the "winshield van" guy would do. No magic in that van. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted November 26, 2012 Share Posted November 26, 2012 Looks like the back of your seat was pressed against it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ftpiercecracker1 Posted November 26, 2012 Share Posted November 26, 2012 No, there is NO way to do that yourself. I just can't be done. Maybe glue would work?!? Sorry, I'm just in a smart a$$ mood today...of course you can do it yourself. Take it all the way out. Clean out all the old cheapo glue/adhesive/crap. Go buy some GOOD (i.e. not WalMart cheapo stuff) construction adhesive in a biiiig tube. Re-install. That's all the "winshield van" guy would do. No magic in that van. When i first read this i was like " :hmm: is he stupid?" and then i read the next line down :laughin: You really had me goin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted November 26, 2012 Share Posted November 26, 2012 Go buy some GOOD (i.e. not WalMart cheapo stuff) construction adhesive in a biiiig tube. Re-install. That's all the "winshield van" guy would do. No magic in that van. Construction adhesive is the wrong product. Use the right stuff. Windshield sealant used to be butyl, but I think I've heard that now it's urethane. In any case, get whatever product is sold for installing windshields. Be sure to check the sheet metal around the opening. From the photos, I'm guessing you need to do some metal work before you re-install the window. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted November 26, 2012 Share Posted November 26, 2012 Urethane is correct. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ParadiseMJ Posted November 27, 2012 Share Posted November 27, 2012 Point taken... I've used poly adhesive on fenders and some other things that are still bonded like a weld after years...but windshield adhesive is the right call. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Butchershop Posted November 27, 2012 Share Posted November 27, 2012 Point taken... I've used poly adhesive on fenders and some other things that are still bonded like a weld after years...but windshield adhesive is the right call. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garvin Posted November 27, 2012 Share Posted November 27, 2012 When I picked up my '92, the window was popped out in the same exact spot. I used a tube of the black windshield adhesive and she's still water tight 2 years later. I used the whole tube of it but I went massive overkill and went around the window like 4 times since I didn't want to do it again any time soon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ParadiseMJ Posted November 27, 2012 Share Posted November 27, 2012 Looks like the back of your seat was pressed against it. Good catch Don, that's exactly what it looks like. I think I'd look at fixing this before calling it good. I had the rear window of my XJ pop out when I closed the hatch after putting a 30" tire on the stock carrier (inside). Luckily I was able to pop it back in but I don't put that kind of stress on my windows anymore. The pop out apparently wasn't random...it likely popped out from getting pushed out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darkenfire Posted November 28, 2012 Author Share Posted November 28, 2012 Good catch Don, that's exactly what it looks like. I think I'd look at fixing this before calling it good. I had the rear window of my XJ pop out when I closed the hatch after putting a 30" tire on the stock carrier (inside). Luckily I was able to pop it back in but I don't put that kind of stress on my windows anymore. The pop out apparently wasn't random...it likely popped out from getting pushed out. The seat wasn't the cause of the window falling out. For one, that seat isn't bolting in or anything, that's why it looks like its up against that window. When I sit on it, it rocks forward. It's not bolted in because I haven't figure out how to yet, I just placed it in there so I had something to sit on to move the truck around now that it's running. Haven't driven it on the road more than a mile or two since disassembly and having the new engine running. Also, when I pulled on the window very lightly, this happened: and one more small tug got it out completely. I think if I had driven it for a week or so it would have fallen out completely on its own. The metal all around it is rusty, and the paint and metal the sealant stuff is stuck to is peeling off, so the window really wasn't sticking to much. The window is out and cleaned up now, still need to clean up the cab area, then i'll slap it back in following that thread someone linked to. The reason I said about having someone else do it is because I always heard you wanted a pro to do it to make sure it was water-tight and long lasting. Some of you guys doing it yourself has given me the confidence to do it myself, though. Thanks for the tips! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ftpiercecracker1 Posted November 29, 2012 Share Posted November 29, 2012 . . . I always heard you wanted a pro to do it to make sure it was water-tight and long lasting. For the windsheild, absolutely. Unless you are a pro with pro experience and pro tools i wouldnt even think about it. As for the rear all it takes is a little patience and thoroghness to ensure a leak proof job that will last. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Automan2164 Posted November 29, 2012 Share Posted November 29, 2012 Does the back of the cab have any cracks originating from the corners of the window? Awhile back, we had a handful of members who noticed some stress cracks back there... Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now