Zenobian_84 Posted November 2, 2012 Share Posted November 2, 2012 To make a very long story short, I had a leak in my lower rad hose (rad. to block) earlier in the month. Replaced it with another hose; seemed to be fine. Seemed to make a mistake with the clamps and lost a fair bit of coolant last night at work. Fixed everything and filled up again, drove around for a while. Opened the hood after driving it a while today and there's still leakage going on. From where the hose connects to the block, and where it connects to the radiator. The clamps are as tight as humanly possible (and there is no hole on either side; already tested that again) and it's just a very slow trickle of drops. What's the problem here? I read about some 2.5 guys having the same problem and most people directed the source to a faulty thermostat or most likely a failing water pump. Thermostat / housing is working and leak free, so I'm looking at the water pump. Would the WP cause this sort of back pressure if it was failing? :dunno: :hmm: Also worth noting that the leak only occurs once it hits operating temperature (around 210). While it's warming up, there is no leaks at all period. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geonovast Posted November 2, 2012 Share Posted November 2, 2012 Water pumps have more than one seal on the shaft, and are designed to begin to weap when they're beginning to fail. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted November 2, 2012 Share Posted November 2, 2012 Didn't see any seepage from the general area of the weep hole. Any other ideas? I'm thinking that since I'm going to do the harmonic balancer seal soon (front of the engine is liberally coated in oil residue) that I might go ahead and replace the dern' pump anyway; a 25 year old pump has to eventually wear out... right?. :ack: :shake: Also, forgot to mention that over the last few weeks, there seems to be some sort of leak from the heater element area of hoses (specifically the lower one that runs to the core itself) and antifreeze would slightly puddle on the charcoal canister. Not really sure if it has to do with running the heater; or just old lines. Probably not related to the problem at hand, but thought it would be worth bringing up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geonovast Posted November 2, 2012 Share Posted November 2, 2012 I had an 88 XJ that had that stupid plastic heater control valve crack on me. Didn't gush coolant, but it was a problem. I just cut it out, spliced the hoses, and plugged the vacuum line. Could that be it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeep Driver Posted November 5, 2012 Share Posted November 5, 2012 I have two clamps per connection, oppossing each other. Only way I could get the new hoses not to leak. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted November 5, 2012 Share Posted November 5, 2012 I have two clamps per connection, oppossing each other. Only way I could get the new hoses not to leak. I thought about doing this; and will probably do so. I don't know why the old AMC hose never leaked.... Just another reason to brag I suppose. :dunno: :yes: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vaquaro Posted November 6, 2012 Share Posted November 6, 2012 The plastic heater control valve is easy to crack if you over-tighten the clamps . when I replaced mine I went back to OEM spring clamps ......no leaks since :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted November 6, 2012 Share Posted November 6, 2012 More of this :wall: ; now with video. Also, did not over-tighten the clamps, the hose has no holes on it; in case anyone thinks that may be the problem here. Seriously beginning to think about another power-plant when this one gives up the ghost. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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