Fuel Issue-Running Rough And Stalling While Driving

[HOrnbrod]

When I put the clean C101 back together should I put some of that electrical connector grease on the prongs? Would that help retard the black gunk from reappearing? What is that gunk anyway, some kind of by product on the plastic casing? I have never seen an electrical part do that before.

 

Dielectric grease is a non-conductor and should not be used inside an electrical connector on the pins and sockets. Just be sure the pins and sockets are clean and free of contaminates. You can coat the outside of the connector though to help waterproof it. That gunk you see is probably residue from the paste the factory used originally.

[cruiser54]

When I put the clean C101 back together should I put some of that electrical connector grease on the prongs? Would that help retard the black gunk from reappearing? What is that gunk anyway, some kind of by product on the plastic casing? I have never seen an electrical part do that before.

 

 

 

It's a grease used from the factory.

 

By the way, I got the the temp sender installed In that hole. It took a little fenageling but you were right, slight angle. I was able to hand turn it a few times so hopefully I didn't cross thread it.

 

I knew you would get it.

 

What is the name of the skinny tube that goes into the top of the valve cover right next to that? I broke it while putting the sender it :(. Bull in a china shop as I have said before lol!!

 

CCV tube.

[marie]

Ok, back on track today. I had other overdue obligations yesterday.

 

I am waiting for a couple of parts to come in, should be here tomorrow. i.e. the ccv tube and MAP tube and rubber connector. But I won't be able to be back on it till Thursday :(

 

I put most everything else that is clean back together. I was going to try to clean the EGR, but I can't get to the second bolt with the tools I have. It is directly behind the the connection tube on the flying saucer part. I need to get a T-40 that is like an angled screwdriver, my star drivers are sockets. :shake: Or is it ok to try to spin the unit a bit? I'm guessing not. Here's a pic.

 

While I have the attention of people who know...... I have a couple of connectors in the area I am working in that as far as I know have never been connected to anything. The pics have reference item in them to show you where they are located. Can anyone tell me what they belong to? Thanks!!

#1

 

#2

[cruiser54]

#1 may be a TPS connector for the auto trans you don't have.

#2 looks like the washer bottle level sensor terminal.

 

I'd like the part number for that throttle body to MAP sensor hose, please.

[marie]

It's not the proper pre bent hose, just replacement hose that I have to mold. Disappointing I know :(, they don't have specific hose for the CCV either. The rubber connectors are what I had to order. Thanks for the info on the unmarried connectors I posted. Makes sense now.

 

I meant to include in the last post, these are the only numbers I could see on the engine block, but it's not 10 digits. 53005535 and it does clearly have a Chrysler stamp on it.

[HOrnbrod]

I meant to include in the last post, these are the only numbers I could see on the engine block, but it's not 10 digits. 53005535 and it does clearly have a Chrysler stamp on it.

 

53005535 is the engine block casting number for the 1987-90 4.0 Renix engines.

[cruiser54]

Renix Vacuum Harnesses

The vacuum harness that attaches to the front of the valve cover and includes the grommet/fitting, and is called the front harness, is Napa part number BK 715-1367

 

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=BK_7151367_0269070623

 

The vacuum harness that is closest to the air cleaner, EGR etc, and is called the rear harness, is Napa part number BK-715-1366.

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=BK_7151366_0269070622

 

The tube from the rear of the valve cover to the intake manifold is part number 715-1365.

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=BK_7151365_0066877355

 

Revised 09-11-2012

The CCV hose to the rear of the valve cover is available as part of one of the vacuum harnesses. The orifice that fits into the grommet is critical to proper engine idling BTW.

[marie]

53005535 is the engine block casting number for the 1987-90 4.0 Renix engines.

 

So, does that mean from 87'-90' the engine blocks are identical? I think I remember reading that in 90' they started to change a few things including getting rid of the C101, is that right?

 

Thanks for all the part numbers cruiser54. I was considering getting the front and back vacuum harnesses to help insure there were no vacuum leaks. The EGR that is on my truck now is a replacement I'm pretty sure. it has a bar code tag on it. Should I bother trying to clean it?

 

Thanks!

[HOrnbrod]

So, does that mean from 87'-90' the engine blocks are identical?

 

Yes. Here's the list:

 

Year Casting No

1987-90 53005535

1991-95 53008405

1996-98 53020569

1997-?? 53010341

1999-04 53010449

[cruiser54]

C101 was 87 and 88. 89 and 90 REnix Jeeps didn't have it.

 

Can't hurt to clean the EGR but at this point, I'd wait to see how everything else does. Did you ever pull the IAT and clean it?

[marie]

yeah, I cleaned the IAT, that's when I snapped the CCV hose...... :oops:

[marie]

Well boys, she is idling..... :MJ 1: The idle is quieter and smoother, but...... it changes pitch once in a while, even after it is warm. I play guitar and I'd say it goes from D to F-F#. The exhaust looks clear, no more black, at least as far as I can tell with a drop light. I held the light right up to the tail pipe for a minute or two and there was nothing on the plastic cover on the light. I will drive it to work tomorrow and see how it goes. So is the pitch change a big worry?

 

All of you who have pitched in to help, especially cruiser54 are my heroes!!! :bowdown: I wish you were closer I'd buy you all a :group beer: THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU!!!!

 

Now I can get back to the tilt steering wheel issue. It has almost an inch of play moving up and down, no play side to side. I am guessing it is the nylon knuckle in the tilt mechanism. I'm hoping it's not too difficult, I know i have to get a couple of pullers. I will post a new topic for that. I also have a clunk in the front end when I turn the wheel all the way left or right, right at the end of turning it all the way. I'll get under there with a stethoscope and see if I can hear exactly where it's coming from. Then there is my Talon that didn't pass inspection last week. It came out with 864 ppm and the max allowable if 220. Aww shucks it's only 4 times what it should be........ I HAVE to fix that Saturday, registration runs out Sunday. Does it never end?

 

The thing is, all old cars need a lot of attention and repair, it's different with a Jeep, (Comanche in particular) because it's worth it. :yes:

[cruiser54]

Your oxygen sensor may be bad causing the idle fluctuation.

 

This will help you with the tilt fix.

 

http://www.elcaminocentral.com/showthread.php?t=27192

[marie]

ok, the oxygen sensor looked pretty accessible if I am remembering right. It's mounted in the exhaust pipe drivers side, right? Anything special to keep in mind while removing it?

 

I can hear the fuel pump while standing next to the rear wheel when it's running, is that bad? Thanks :)

[cruiser54]

Oxygen sensor screws into the exhaust manifold. It's not far from the CTS actually.

 

Loud fuel pumps can be caused by a bypassed fuel pump ballast resistor or failing pumps.

[marie]

So, being able to hear it while standing next to it is considered loud, right?

 

If I put in a new fuel pump, will it also take care of the ballast?

 

Less than a half tank and I don't have to drop the tank right?

[cruiser54]

Loud is a relative term. You are a female who plays music. I'm an old guy who has been around heavy equipment, loud cars and tools, and has shot large caliber guns without ear protection.

 

Is it a hissing sound to you, or a loud hum? Can you hear the noise in the cab?

 

The ballast resistor is a white ceramic thingy mounted on the driver's side inner fender near the air cleaner. Has a wire at each end of it. It's purpose was to reduce voltage to the fuel pump so it wouldn't be noisy. 87 and some early 88s didn't have it.

[marie]

ok, loud is relative when you put it that way :) I will check it out when I start it to go to work and let you know. You may be all the things you listed above, but you are also brilliant and kind. I'll check and see if I have a ballast too. Thanks!

 

Here is a curiosity, before doing this work occasionally the truck would suddenly race to 3-4K rpms and I would have to turn it off and on again several times before it would quit that. And, it would occasionally do that at start up, but way higher a rev than just being cold. That is usually the MAP, right?

[cruiser54]

TPS. Is it still doing it?

[marie]

It's not riving now, but it only did intermittently, once a week at the most. I will have to wait and see if it does it any more. I have a new MAP in it now, so maybe that will cure that aspect of it.

 

As for the pump, it sounds a little high bitched, like a whinny electric motor.

[cruiser54]

It's not riving now, but it only did intermittently, once a week at the most. I will have to wait and see if it does it any more. I have a new MAP in it now, so maybe that will cure that aspect of it.

 

As for the pump, it sounds a little high bitched, like a whinny electric motor.

 

The high idle may be fixed. TPS ground can affect it, along with a bad or maladjusted TPS.

 

Can you hear the pump when inside the cab? Or is it only when you're standing near the rear of the truck?

[marie]

The high idle may be fixed. TPS ground can affect it, along with a bad or maladjusted TPS.

 

Can you hear the pump when inside the cab? Or is it only when you're standing near the rear of the truck?

 

I can not hear it when I'm in the truck, only when standing near it.

 

As for the TPS, I just found this post here http://comancheclub.com/topic/11634-renix-throttle-position-sensor-tps-testing-adjustment/ It explains how to adjust it. I will be a couple of weeks before I can hit that. The steering wheel is making me nervous. It has an inch of play if you move it up and down with tilt locked, but is solid side to side. Is it possible that it could just disintegrate and suddenly not function? You know like at 60mpr on the highway?

 

Gotta work on the Talon today and try and get it registered. It expires tomorrow. yikes! Will I ever have a weekend to myself?

[cruiser54]

I wouldn't be super concerned about the fuel pump right now. If it starts getting louder, replace it.

 

The steering wheel will not become disconnected like it is. That said, it's not gonna get tighter on it's own, just loosen up more.

 

Here's my TPS instructions. They are more precise.

 

 

RENIX TPS ADJUSTMENT

Before attempting to adjust your TPS be sure the throttle body has been recently cleaned. It's especially important that the edges of the throttle butterfly are free of any carbon build-up.

IMPORTANT NOTE: With the Key OFF, and using the positive (red) lead of your ohmmeter, probe the B terminal of the flat 3 wire connector of the TPS. The letters are embossed on the connector itself. Touch the black lead of your meter to the negative battery post. Wiggle the wiring harness where it parallels the valve cover and also over near the MAP sensor on the firewall. If you see more than 1 ohm of resistance, or fluctuation in your ohms reading, some modifications to the sensor ground harness will be necessary. The harness repair must be performed before proceeding. I can provide an instruction sheet for that if needed.

MANUAL TRANSMISSION:

RENIX manual transmission equipped XJs have only a flat three-wire TPS mounted on the throttle bodyand it provides data input to the ECU. It has three wires in the connector and they're clearly embossed with the letters A, B, and C. Wire "A" is positive. Wire "B" is ground. Key ON, measure voltage from "A" positive to "B" ground by back-probing the connectors. Note the voltage reading--this is your REFERENCE voltage. Key ON, back-probe the connector at wires "B" and "C". Measure the voltage. This is your OUTPUT voltage. Your OUTPUT voltage needs to be seventeen percent of your REFERENCE voltage. For example: 4.82 volts X .17=.82 volts. Loosen both T-20 Torx screws attaching the TPS to the throttle body and rotate the TPS until you

have achieved your desired output voltage. Tighten the screws carefully while watching to see that your output voltage remains where it is supposed to be. If you can't achieve the correct output voltage, replace the TPS and start over.

Sometimes, after adjusting your TPS the way outlined above, you may experience a high idle upon starting. If that happens, shut the engine off and reconnect your probes to B and C. Start the engine and while watching your meter, turn the TPS clockwise until the idle drops to normal and then rotate it back counterclockwise to your desired output voltage.

AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION: RENIX automatic transmission equipped XJs have a TPS with two connectors. There is a flat three-wire connector, same as the manual transmission vehicles have, and it is tested the same as the manual transmission equipped vehicles, as outlined above—FOR ALL ENGINE MANAGEMENT RELATED ISSUES.

However, the automatic TPS also has a square four-wire connector, clearly embossed with the letters A,B,C, and D. It only uses three wires and provides information to the Transmission Control Module. THIS SQUARE FOUR WIRE CONNECTOR IS USED FOR TRANSMISSION/SHIFTING RELATED ISSUES ONLY. Key ON, measure voltage between "A" positive and "D" ground. Note the voltage. This is your REFERENCE voltage. Back-probe the connector at wires "B" and "D". Measure the voltage. This is your OUTPUT voltage. Your OUTPUT voltage needs to be eighty-three percent of your REFERENCE voltage. For example 4.8 volts X .83=3.98 volts. Adjust the TPS until you have achieved this percentage. If you can't, replace the TPS and start over. So, if you have an automatic equipped XJ your TPS has two sides--one side feeds the ECU, and the other side feeds the TCU.

FOR AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION RELATED ISSUES: Check the square four-wire connector side of the TPS.

If you have ENGINE ISSUES check the flat three-wire connector side of the TPS.

For those with a MANUAL TRANSMISSION--the TPS for the manual transmission XJs is stupid expensive. You can substitute the automatic transmission TPS which is reasonably priced.

Revised 09-22-2012

[cruiser54]

Any updates?

[marie]

I've been meaning to write a comment. My Mom passed away Oct. 2nd and I haven't had my head in the game so to speak. There are other mechanical issues taking precedence too. I have a 90' Talon that I gave to my son when he graduated basic training and tech school a few months ago. It is having trouble passing the smog test for registration renewal. I have done a few things and brought it down from 894 ppm to 345ppm, the limit is 220ppm. I need to try a pressure test next I think, and I'm trying to find someone with a compressor. It also sounds like the timing could be off a hair, but it has a coil pack and I'm lost on how to adjust it. Well, I have to buy a timing light and check it first, I will have to find a forum for Talons.

 

Back to my truck, my death wobble is back and I can't drive it on the highway which is imperative as I need to drive to Carson city three times a week for job #3. I went to get my wheels rotated and balanced as a first check. I went in and asked if I could check a few things while it was on the lift. Sure enough I have a bad lower ball joint on the passenger side, which means change out four ball joints and two u joints. Plus the guy that was looking at it with me said it looked like some of the other parts I replaced 6 months ago when I was initially tracking down the death wobble have worn out, most notably the dampener and drag link. When it rains it pours. So there's a lot to do under the front end before I can get back to testing the TPS. Which I will do eventually. I will start a new thread for the ball and u joints, I have not done those before and I will be doing them on the ground, I don't have a lift. Just in case there are a few things to watch out for. Plus my little brain is not 100% yet from my Mom passing. I guess there's no rest for the wicked...... I"ll try to start the new thread tonight. Thanks for the help with the problem on this thread, it is running great with the exception of the slight idle fluctuation which I'm sure will pass once I get back on the TPS.